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PRELIMIIARY REPORT 



CONCERNING 



EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS 



PHINCirALLV IN 



NEVADA AND ARIZONA 



PRO.SECUTKD IN ACCORDAXCE WITH PARAGRAPH 2, SPECIAL ORDERS 

No. 109, WAR DEPARTMENT, MARCH 18, 1871, AND LETTER 

OF INSTRUCTIONS OF MARCH 23, 1871 



I-UOM 'A I 



f-f' 



BRIGA'DIER GENERAL A. A. HUMPHREYS, 

CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. 



COXDUCTED UXDEI! THE IMMEDIATE DIRECTION 



1st Lieut. GEORGE M. WHEELER, Corps of Eugineers. 



1 8 71. 



WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
18 7 2. 






Li '- 




I\ THK Senate ok thk I'mtki) Stati;.'^, 

J/O.V 2, \ini. 

Besolccfl, That uiiibUuudivd nml fifty adilitioiial copios of the ■'Kecouuaissauce of Aiizoua ami Nevada" he printed 
lu quarto form and bound; four hundred and tifty copies of whiili shall be for the use of tlie Senate, and five hundred 
for distribution liy tlie Chief of Engineers, United States Aruiy. 
Attest : 

GEO. C. GOKHAM, 

Secretary. 



Ix TiiK Senate ok the United States, 

* Mmj 28, 1S7-2. 

The followiiig resolution, passed by the Senate May "2, 1S7'2, was concurred in by the House of Kepresent.atives, May 
27, 1872. 

Ecxolred, By the Senate, (the House of Rspreseutatives coucurrinj;,) that four thousand additional copies of the 
"Reconnaissance of Arizona and Nevada" be printed in quarto form and bound: one thousand copies of which shall 
be for the use of the Senate, two thousand seven hundred aud fifty copies for the use of the Honse of Representatives, 
and two hundred and fifty copies for distribution by the Chief of Engineers, United States Army. 
Attest : 

(iEO. C. GOKHAM, 

Secretary. 



t r? , )f 



y. 



7 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Letter of Secretarj' of AVar 5 

Chief of Enginoeis 7 

Lieutenarit Wheeler 9 

lutroduction 11 

Letter of instructions 11 

Co-operatiou of the Supply Departments of the Army. 12 

Medical Department of the Army- 1'2 ; 

CHAPTER I, 



Officers of the expedition 12-l;{ 

Escort 13 

United States Naval Observatory 13 

Western Uniou Telegraph Company 13 

United States Lake Survey 13 

lustriimcnts 13 



Organization of expedition 15 

From Rendezvous No. 1, Halleck Station, Nevada, to 
Rendezvous No. 2, near Belmont, Nevada l."> 

From Rendezvous No. 2, Belmont, to Rendez\ous Xo. 
."?, at Camp Independence, California 15 

From Rendezvous No. 3, Camp In<lopeudence, Cali- 
fornia, to Rendezvous No. 4, at Cottonwood Springs, 
Nevada 16 

From Rendezvous No. 4, Cottonwood Springs, to Ren- 
dezvous No. 5, at Tnixton Springs, Arizona 1" 



From Rendezvous No. 5, Truxton Springs, to Rendez- 
vous No. 6, at Preseott, Arizona 18 

From Rendezvous No. 6, Preseott, Arizona Territory, 

to Rendezvous No. 7, at Camp Apache, Arizona IS* 

From Rendezvous No. 7, Camp Apache, Arizona, to 
Rendezvous No. 8, Camp Lowell, Tucson, Arizona 

Territory 19 

Extent of reconnaissance line 19 

Area traversed 19 

Cost of .survey, etc 19 



CHAPTER II. 



Astronomical 21 

Topographical 21 

Physico-geographical 22 

Meteorological 24 

Geological 2-1 

Natural history 25 

Mineralogy 25 

Magnetic observations 25 



Photographs 25 

Means of communication 25 

Indians 27 

Sites for military posts , 29 

Influence of climate 30 

Agricultural and grazing lands 31 

Mines 32 

List of mining questions 32 



MINING DISTRICTS. 



Bull-Run and Cope districts, Nevada 34 

Lone Mountain district, Nevada 35 

Tuscarora and Railroad districts, Nevada 35 

Mineral HiU district, Nevada 35 

Diamond and Racine districts, Nevada 36 

Enreka district, Nevada 37 

Sierra or Secret Cation district, Nevada 37 

Pinto district, Nevada 37 

Morey district, Nevada 38 

White Pine and Spring Yallcy districts, Nevada 39 

Antelope district, Nevada 39 

Hot Creek and Emjiire districts, Nevada .39 

Rattlesnake Canon district, Nevada 39 

Tyboe and Battle Mountain districts, Nevada 40 

Yankee Blade and Reese River districts, Nevada 40 



Kingston district, Nevada 41 

North Twin River district, Nevada 41 

Twin River and Jeftersou districts, Nevada 41 

Manhattan and Mountain Chief districts, Nevada 41 

Silver Bend district, Nevada 41 

Reveille district, Nevada 42 

Freiberg district, Nevada 42 

Ely district, Nevada 42 

Highland district, Nevada 43 

Blind Mountain district, Nevada 43 

Cedar district, Nevada 43 

Pahranagat Lako district, Nevada 43 

Tim-pah-ute district, Nevada 44 

Groom district, Nevada 41 

Southeastern district, Nevada 45 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Waiicova district, California 45 

Sau Antonio district, Nevada 45 

Montezuma district, Nevada 46 

Blind Spring district, California 46 

Alida district, Nevada 47 

Gold Mountain district, Nevada 47 

Palmetto district, Nevada 47 

Green Mountain district, Nevada 47 

Columbus district, Nevada 48 

Oneata district, California 48 

Montgomery district, California 48 

Silver Peak and Eed Mountain districts, Nevada 48 

Deep Spring Valley district, Californm 49 

Fish Spring district, California 50 

Kearsarge district, California 50 

San Carlos district, California 50 

Lone Pine district, California 50 

Coso district, California 51 

Granite Mountain district, California 51 

Telescope district, California 52 

Lyons district, California 52 

Death Valley district, California 52 



El Paso district, California 52 

Amargosa district, California 52 

Timber Mountain district, Nevada 52 

Yellow Pine district, Nevada 52 

Clarke district 5:? 

New York district, Nevada and California 5;i 

Hualpais district, Arizona 53 

Maynard district, Arizona - 54 

Tiger district, Arizona 54 

Pine Grove district, Arizona 55 

Bradsbaw district, Arizona 55 

Turkey Creek district, Arizona 55 

Weaver district, Arizona 55 

Walnut Grove district, Arizona 55 

Hassyampa district, Arizona •''*' 

Martinez district, Arizona ^^ 

Santa Slaria district, Arizona 56 

Vulture Mine, Arizona f*" 

Mines in Pinal Mountains, Arizona 56 

Maps 59 

Conclusion 

Territory yet to be surveyed 



60 
61 



APPENT)IX A. 



Report of Daniel W. Lockwood, First Lieutenant of 

Engineers 62 

From Truxton Sjirings to Prescott, Arizona 67 

From Prescott to Camp Apache, Arizona 68 

Agricultural lands 70 

Grazing lauds 71 

Woodlands 72 



Mineral lands and mines 72 

Natural history 73 

Geology 73 

Meteorology 73 

Means of communication, routes for roads, &c 74 

Indians ''4 



APPENDIX B. 

Report of Second Lieutenant D. A. Lyle, Second United 
States Artillery 76 

From Belmont, Nevada, to Camp Independence, Cali- 
fornia 77 

From Camp Independence to Gold Mountain and return 80 

From Camp Independence to Cottonwood Springs, 
Nevada 83 

From Cottonwood Springs to Saint Thomas, Nevada. 85 

From Saint George, Utah, to the Crossing of the Col- 
orado 85 

I"rom Truxton Springs to Prescott, Arizona Territory, 
via Cam]) Date Creek and Bradshaw Mountains ... 86 



From Prescott, Arizona Territory, to Tucsou, Arizona 

Territory, via Camp Apache 

Recapitulation 

Valleys 

Mountains 

Indians 

Agricultural lands 

Grazing lands 

Mining districts 

Means of communication 

Remarks 



APPENDIX C. 



Report of Assistant Edward P. Austin 91 

Carlin, Nevada 91 

Battle Mountain, Nevada 91 

Austin, Nevada 91 



Camp Independence, California . 

Salt Lake City 

Probable character of results 



88 



89 
89 
89 
90 
90 



91 
91 
92 



APPENDIX D. 
Report of Assistant G. K. Gilbert 92 



War Department, April 19, 1872. 
The Secretary of War has the honor to transmit to the Uuited States Senate a preliminary re- 
port of Lientenant George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, of the progTess of the engineer exploi-a- 
tion of the public domain in Nevada and Arizona, which, it is believed, will satisfactorily meet the 
request contained in the Senate resolution of the 7th ultimo, and to invite the attention of that 
body to the estimate of funds necessary for the continuance of the work, embraced in the letter of 
the Chief of Engineers forwarding the report, for which purpose no provision was made in the reg- 
ular estimate for appropriations heretofore made to Congress. 

WM. W. BELKNAP, 

Secretary of War, 



Office of the Chief of Engineers, 

Wasliington, B. C, April 18, 1872. 

SiK: lu compliauce with llie following resolutiou of tbe Senate of the United States, "That 
the Secretary of War be requested to communicate, for the information of the Senate, a report 
showing the present condition of the explorations now being conducted under the direction of the 
Engineer Department, (in Nevada and Arizona,) and in the immediate charge of Lieutenant George 
M. Wheelei", Corps of Engineers," I have the honor to submit herewith a preliminary report from 
Lieutenant Wheeler, which, it is believed, Avill furnish all the information contemplated in the res- 
olution. The preliminary topographical map referred to in the report has just been completed, and 
two copies' are transmitted herewith. 

I desire to invite attention to the extent of country in the interior that has not yet been explored 
instrumentally, and to recommend to favorable consideration the project and estimate submitted 
by Lieutenant Wheeler for continuing the exploration of these unknown areas. 

For the next season's work the sum of $75,000 is necessary. 

The early mapping of this region will be of great service not only for governmental purposes, but 

in furnishing information eagerly sought for by those interested in mining and other industrial 

pursuits. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

A. A. nUMPHREYS, 

Urigadier Oeneral and Chief of Engineers. 
Hon. Wm. W. Belknap, 

Secretary of War. 



PRELIMINARY REPORT 



OF 



EXPLOIUTIOSS IN NEVADA AND AlilZONA. 



By GEO. M. WHEELER, 
First Lieutenant Gorjps of Engbieens. 



United States Engineer Office, 
(Explorations, in Nevada and Arizona,) 

Washington, I). €., March 19, 1871". 
General : 1 have the honor to forward, iu aekuowledguient of your communication of the 
iL'tli instant, a preliminary report, with appendices, presenting, so far as circumstances will permit, 
such of the results relating to the explorations of the past season, (as are liable to be soonest 
needed,) and explanations regarding the present condition ot our labors, thinking that this will in 
the best manner satisfy the spirit of the resolution of the Senate of the 8th instant, a copy ot 
which you inclose. It will also supply, in a measure, the part of a more detailed annual report, 
that should have been forwarded from the field only for the great urgency of other duties ; and 
your attention is called to some of the suggestions in favor of a contiunauce of explorations in the 
field of our western territory, and to the estimates presented. A preliminary topographical map, 
now nearly completed, will be forwarded at the earliest opportunity. 
All of which is respectfully submitted. 

GEO. M. WHEELEK, 

First Lieutenant., Corps of Engineers, in charge of 

Explorations in Nevada and Arizona. 
Brigadier General A. A. Humphreys, 

Chief of Engineers TJ. 8. Army, Washington, D. C. 



INTRODUCTION. 



lu i)reseiitiug this prelimiuary report, it has been deemed advisable to divide it iuto two sepa- 
rate parts, the first giving the localities included in the survey, some general details, and an average 
of the cost, based upon the area traversed; the second giving, as plainly as circumstances permit, 
the present condition of the results from this work. 

The following are copies of the special orders from the War Department : 

Special Orders ) Wai; DicrAiiTMENr, Adjutant General's Oftice, 

No. ma— Extract. ^ JTasliiiigloii, ilnrch 18, 1871. 

2. Upou the recouiniLndutiou of the C'bicf of Kuginecrs, 1st Liuuteuaut George JI. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, is 
liercby assigned to the charge of the exploration, under the direction of the Chief of Engineers, of those portions of the 
United States territory lying south of the Central Paeific Railroad, embracing parts of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. 

The Quartermaster Cieneral will, in addition to the transportation and supply of the escort, procure the necessary 
animals and forage them <ii runk. lie will furnish transportation from the East to Sau Francisco, and thence to the field, 
for the civilian assistants of Lieutcuaut Wheeler, and the subsistence stores, instruments, &e. 

The Commissary General of Subsistence will furnish the necessary rations and anti-scorbutics for the party. 

The Surgeon Cieneral will furnish one medical officer and two hospital stewards, and the necessary medical stores. 

The Chief of Ordnance will supply horse equipments, arms, and ammunition at such points as ni.ay be necessary. 

Bv order of the Secretarv of War: 

K. D. TOWNSEND, 

Adjutant General. 

Special Orders ) Hf-adquarters of the Army, Adjutant General's Office, 

No. 110.— Extract. 5 WasUngton, Alarch 13, 1871. 

'J. The Commanding General Military Division of the Pacific w ill furnish proper escort to the exploration party 
referred to in Special Orders No. 109, of this date, from the War Department, for the exploration of those portions of the 
United States territory lying south of the Central Pacific Railroad, embracing points of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. 

By command of Cieneral Sherman . 

E. D. TOWNSEND, 

Adjutant Gtnm-al, 

The general plan to be pursued was indicated in the letter of instructions of the Chief of 
Engineers, dated March 23, 1871, and was only modified as imperative circumstances required. 
The following is a copy of the letter of instructions mentioned : 

OnicE OF THE Chief of Engi.neers, 

Washington, D. C, March 23, 1871. 

Sir : The Secretary of \A'ar, in his orders of March 18, 1871, a copy of which has been furnished you, has assigned 
you to the charge of the exploration, under the direction of the Chief of Engineers, of those portions of the United States 
territory lying south of the Central Pacific Railroad, embracing parts of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. 

The main object of this exploration will be to obtain correct topographical knowledge of the country traversed by 
your parties, and to prepare accurate maps of that section. lu making this the main object, it is at the same time 
intended that you ascertain as far as practicable everything relating to the physical features of the country, the num- 
bers, habits, and disposition of the Indians who may live in this section, the selection of such sites as may be of use for 
future military ojierations or occupation, and the facilities oft'ered for making rail or common roads, to meet the wajits 
of those who at some future period may occupy or traverse this part of our territory. 



12 EXPLOEATiO:?^ IN iS'EVAUA xVXD AKlZO^'xV. 

lu ascertaiuiuj; llio pbysical features, your atteutiou is jiarticularly called to the uiiueial resources that uiay be 
discovered, aud, where the indications would seem to justify it, you should have luiuute aud detailed examinatious 
made of the locality aud character of the deposits. 

The iutlucuce of cliuuite, the geological formatious, character aud kiuds of vcgetatiou. its inoljable value for ay;ri- 
cultural aud grazing purposes, relative proportions of woodland, water, aud other (jualities, which ati'ect its value for 
the settler, sliould be carefully observed. 

The latitude and longitude of as many as i)Ossible of the important points should be accurately determined, aud 
in order to assist you in this, it is suggested that you make arrangements with the ollicers in charge of the United 
States Lake Survey and United States Naval Observatory, so as to determine by telegraph the longitude of those 
points nearest your field of labor, with which your field-work can be connected. 

To accomiilish these objects most efiectually, you will divide your expeditiou into two parts, and have both parties 
start from jioints to the west of Elko Statiou, proceeding in a southerly direction ; meet at or near Belmont ; following 
the same plan aud direction leaving Belmont, meet at Camp Independence, in California. Leaving Camp Independence, 
following a southeasterly direction, they will meet at or near Stump Springs, on the old Salt Lake road. Ux)on arriving 
at this point, you will organize a party to goto Fort Mohave, and using the boats already stored there, make an exami- 
nation of the Colorado Kivcr as far as the crossing of the old Santa Fe' trail, where they will be met by the main expe- 
ditiou. The boat party will continue to examine the Colorado River, as far as practicable, while the main party will 
camp at Peacock's Spring. Leaving Peacock's Spring after the junction of the part'es, the expedition will divide as 
liefore ; diverging from this station, will come together at Prescott, Arizona Territory. Hence making an examination 
of the couutry on both sides of the Sau Francisco Mountains, when the field-labor may be terminated. 

The following places are designated as convenient fordcpot.s, viz : Camp Independence, California ; Camps Mohave, 
Hualapais, Whipple, and Apache, in Arizona ; and Camps Wingate and Bayard, in New Mexico. 

You will use your own judgment in modifying the jilan jiroposed in the event of any unforeseen circumstances or 
physical obstacles preventing an adherence to it. 

To aid you in the discharge of these duties, Lieutenant U. W. Lockwood. of the Corps of Eugiueers, has been 
ordered to report to you. and you are authorized to employ ten assistants as topographers, geologists, naturalists, Ac, 
at sahjries already authorized from this ofHce in letters of previous date ; also, the necessary number of packers, guides, 
and laborers, to complete your party. The whole number of civilian employ(^s not to exceed thirty in number. Voii 
will procure your assislauls, employes, equiiiments, supplies, &.c., at those points which seem to insure the most econom- 
ical and eli'ectivc orgauization for the party, and are authorized to pay their actual transportation to aud from, and to 
subsist them while in, the field. 

You will make rerjuisition on this office for such instruments as you may require, and are authorized to purchase 
oue spriug-wagon for transporting the astronomical instruments, sextants, chronometerK, and ui.ignetic instruments 
for the use of the expedition. 

All necessary transportatiou, provisions, supplies, Ac, which you cannot obtaiu from the supply departments of the 
Army, and books, stationery, aud drawing materials, will he paid for from the funds in your hands. 

You will communicate with this oflice as often as the means of communication will allow, forwarding the usual 
reports aud returns required by the regulatiou.s, aud such other reports as will keep this office apprised of your move- 
ments, aiul the progress of the expedition under your charge. 

The sum of |50,000 has been set apart to meet your expenses until June LiO, 1872, and you are particularly reipiested 
to be economical in your disl ur,semeuts, and under no circumstances to exceed this amount. On the coni|iletiou of your 
lieUl duty you will dispose of the public property in your charge, discharge such assistants and employes of your parly 
for whom you have no further need, and return to Wa.shingtoii to make your report and prejiare the necessary maps. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

A. A. IIUMPUKEVS, 
lirigaditr General, and Chkfof Enijincers. 

Lieutenant Gicoiicii; M. Wiiicici.Ki:, 

Ci>rps of L'ligiiircrs, ^] uihuiijluu, D. C. 

Ill iiccordaiice with teleyiapliic orders froni tlte War Dcpartmoiit, dated JMareli 11, aud as iiieii- 
tioued ill letter of iii.stractious from the Chief of Engineers of Mareh 2.'!, 1871, Lieuteuaut D. W. 
Lockwood, Corps of Engineers, was to have assisted in the performance of the duties of the 
exploration; but, owing to some iiiisapprchensioii on the part of the coiiimauding ofldcer of the 



EXI'LOIMTION IN NEVADA AND AIUZONA. 13 

doptirliucul ill which LiciitoiiauL Loclvwood was serviug, ho was not able U> cuLcr upuii his hibors 
until early iu August. This siuglu matter, because of the iucideut vexatious delays occasioued by 
the multiple uatuie of the duties thrust upou my shoulders, was the reasou for the loss of nearly 
oue moiilh in time before the parties could lie said to have fairly organized for systematic work. 
This caused serious iucouveuieuce through the entire season, and it often seemed almost certain 
that, in couseiiuencc, the entire field of the labor projected could not be finished prior to the setting 
iu of the winter. 

Second Lieutenant D. A. Lyle, Second United States Artillery, who liad been serving with his 
company in Alaska, w as, at my request, ordered to join the expedition, but was unable to reach 
any of the rendezvous camps until that oue ostablislied at Belmont, Nevada, a little prior to July 
1, when he was at once placed in charge of main party No. li and the escort. lie performed this 
latter duty until the close of the season's operations, and in many ways allied himself with the 
professional undertakings of the exploration. 

The Meilical Department was to furnish one surgeon and two hospital stewards. These persons 
came from the Military Division of the Pacitic, and were as follows: Acting Assistant Surgeon A. 
H. Cochrane ; Hospital Stewards Frank Ilecox and T. Y. J'.rown, the latter joining the command 
at Halleck Statiou, Nevada. Subsequently, Acting Assistant Surgeon Walter J. Hoffman reported 
at Carlin, Nevada, having been ai)pointcd by the honorable Secretary of War at the instance of 
Professor S. F. LJaird, of the Smithsonian Institution, and upon the recommendation of the Surgeon 
General. He was at once placed iu charge of the departments of mineralogy and natural history. 
Dr. Cochrane performed the duties of ''surgeon to the expedition," while the two hospital stewards 
accomplished excellent services as meteorological observers. 

The areas intended to be examined were entirely, with the exception of certain small sections, 
in Southwestern Utah, within the limits of the Military Division of the Pacitic, aud the furnishing 
of the escort was effected lluough the commanding general, whose kindness in this as well as in 
all matters relating to the supplies and furthering the objects of the expedition was constantly 
evinced. The permanent escort .that continued with the expedition until its termination came 
from Troop I, Third United States Cavalry, and consisted of two sergeants, four corporals, and 
twenty six privates, then serving in the Department of California, Brigadier General E. O. C. Ord 
commanding, to w honi, for his generous aid aud counsel at this time, as well as at all others, I feel 
especially grateful. Other temporary escorts were obtained from several of the posts in Arizona, 
and Lieutenant C'olonel George Crook, commanding this deiiartment at the timci of our entering its 
limits, was very kind in authorizing the facilities asked for in our informal requisitions. 

No lieutenant of cavalry was available to be placed in charge of the escort, as the troops of 
the Third Cavalry at Camp Halleck were about changing for a southern station. This resulted in 
no serious inconvenience, as (his escort, except for the very few days spent at rende/vcius camps, 
were always divided into two, and ofteu into as many as four parts. In the matter of the deter- 
mination of the main astronomical stations, especially fruitful assistance was furnished on the 
part of the ollicers iu charge of the United States Naval Observatory, the United States Lake 
Survey, aud by the otiicers and certain operators of the Western Union Telegraph Company. I 
would particularly express my sense of obligation to Admiral Sands, of the United States Naval 
Observatory, whose active co operation secured to me the services of Professor J. 11. Eastman at 
the observatory in Washington ; to (Jeneral C. B. Comstock, of the L^nited States Lake Survey, 
who allowed Civiliau Assistant O. B. Wheeler to perform similar service at the observatory at 
Detroit ; to Mr. Ortou, president, Messrs. Stager, Tinker, and Ladd, respectively, uianagers at 
Chicago, Washington, and San Francisco, of the \\'estcrn Union Telegraph Company, as well as 



\. 



14 EXPLOIJATIOX IN J^EVADA AND AltlZONA. 

to Brighain Yoiiug, incsideut of the 3Iormou Chuicb, Salt Lake City, Utab, who, through the 
intervention of Hon. William H. Hooper, tendered the use of the Mormon telegraph from that 
point to Saint (k'orge, Utah. It requires but a hasty examination to coneludc that the elements 
placed at my disposal were \aried and complete, none too many, however, for tlie wants df an 
expedition to operate in so severe a section of country for such a length of time. 

For the full cooperation of the supply departments of the Army too many thanks cannot lie 
rendered. It would have been impossible, with the means placed at my disposal by the Engineer 
Deiiartment, to have conducted an exi>editiou of such magnitude over so great a range of country 
within the limited time of one season, except for this verj' solid and generous assistance. It shall 
be among my endeavors to show that this has not been illy merited, and ask that reference be 
made to some of the succeeding pages for a hasty summary of most of the results that have been 
so far accomplished. 

It is with the greatest difticulty that these can l>e made to seem not meager, since memory has 
to furnish so much material in the writing of this report, at a time when the majority of the notes 
are en route, or rather blockaded, upon the Union Tacittc Kailroad. To the many otiicers in com- 
mand of military posts along our route, as well as quartermasters aud commissaries, to very many 
■gentlemen, superintendents of mines and residents of the mining districts, to various State, terri- 
torial, and county officials, to members of the i)ublic press, contiguous to areas of the exiiloration, 
and to various private citizens and others who have extended cordial aid and sympathy to the work 
allotted to my care, 1 desire to express my tiianks, as well as those of se\eral of the membeis of 
the exiieditiou. 



EXPLOEATIO:^^ m NEVADA AND AJilZONA. 15 



CHAPTER I. 

The first principal rendezvous at Halleck Station, Nevada, on the Central Pacific Railroad, was 
establislied on tlie 3d of ]May, and the forces of the expedition were assembled entire within a 
few days, consisting, in addition to those already mentioned, as follows: Belonging to the engineer 
assistants and employes there were four topographers, one assistant surveyor, one assistant 
astronomical observer and computer, one chief geologist, one meteorologist, two collectors in 
natural history, one photographer, and guides, packers, laborers, &c., numbering thirty in all, wliicli 
number was increased to thirty-one on the 1st of July by the addition of an assistant astronomical 
observer and assistant geologist; as quartermaster's employes, including chief packers, cargadores, 
guides, &c., fifteen. The transportation was as follows : One flfty-mule pack-train, one forty-mule 
pack-train, one instrument wagon, and two instrument-carts, two odometer vehicles, and riding- 
animals for officers, civilian assistants, and employes, as well as the escort. While waiting at Halleck 
Station, all the available time of the assistants was spent in Journeys and examinations among the 
adjacent mountains within a radius from twelve to fourteen miles. 

RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 1, AT HALLECK STATION, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS 

CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA. 

The entire expedition moved to Carlin, Nevada, at which point the first nnxin astronomical 
station was to be established. A side party was here organized for work to the north and west- 
ward, and principally outside the zone traversed by the parties of the fortieth parallel survey. This 
party was to converge upon the remainder of main party No. 2, at Battle Mountain, Nevada, which 
had been sent there to establish a temporary camp at the commencement of that line. Main party 
No. 1 cut loose from the railroad about June 1, and passed to the southward, through Mineral 
Hill, Eureka, and Morey districts, to Belmont, about seven miles from which place tiie second 
rendezvous camp was established. 

Two side topographical parties detoured from this line, coming in upon the main line succes- 
si\-ely at Eureka and Morey, visiting many mining districts and gaining valuable topographical 
and allied information. Main party No. 2, in charge of Acting Assistant Surgeon A. H. Cochrane, 
moving to the south, passed through Battle Mountain district, reaching Austin, as the first 
important point of any size. Side parties carried hasty examinations along the Toyabe Range 
and on either side of the Monitor Range. 

The complete rendezvous near Belmont was accomplished on June 24. The field of operations 
thus far was entirely confined to Nevada. 

RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS CAMP 
NO. 3, AT CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA. 

The interval of time here included is a little more than thirty days. The examinations were 
over areas in both Nevada and California. Main party No. 2, in charge of Lieutenant Lyle, 
operated to tlie south and west, impinging with one side party constantly employed upon the very 
desert and little-known area to the south and southwest from Belmont, which is a portion of that 
large tract in Southwestern Nevada hitherto unexplored. I beg leave to append the report 
presented by this officer, marked Appendix B. Main party No. 1, with two side parties constantly 
engaged, moved to the south and east, reaching Pahranagat Valley for supplies prior to the direct 



It) EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

uiaicli tbeijce in ueail.v a due line toward Camp Indepeudeuee, o\ei- dub of the ujost desolatt- 
regions upon the face of the earth, and amid the scenes of disaster of those early emigrant trains 
who are accredited with having perished in " Death Valley." This entire section is known in 
common parlance among the settlers of the mining and mountain towns of Nevada as "Death 
Valley."' while the "Death Valley proper" should be limited to that remarkable depression which, 
at its lowest surface, falls beneath the level of the ocean, and which lies principally in California. 
It was thought at first that it would be impracticable to make this march with the entire train, 
aiul that it would be necessary to surround this desert section in traveling along lines partially 
known, and entering it at certain points with parties numbering not more than five or six. It was 
almost impossible to gain any accurate information of even the chances for grass and water from 
either white man or Indian, the erratic wanderings of the latter having .scarcely reached a day's 
march from their own wick-e-ups. A party was dispatched to the southward, toward the Colorado, to 
establish a supply camp somewhere along Spring Mountain Eaiige, npon which to converge, after 
the parties should have again crossed tlie "Death Valley," in their outward journey from Camp 
Indepeudcn(j^. This arrangement proved most fortuitous. On the 23d of July, the rest of the 
main party were all together at Naquinta Springs, north and west from Tim-pah-rite Peak, with the 
desert stretching out along our western horizon. The objective point was a place since called 
Oasis Valley, known at the time to be sensibly to our westward, and containing good grass and 
water. This locality was reached after three days of the most severe marching, and was found to 
be a narrow valley, surrounded by low rolling mesas, from which broke, in many places, a largg 
number of springs of good, clear water, but of varying thermal conditions. "We remained here 
until joined by a messenger from Lieutenant Lyle's party, who reported still more terrible difficul- 
ties before us. This messenger came in accompanied by an Indian, and reported that he had left 
Lieutenant Lyle with a relief party on the eastern slope of the Inyo Range, and that he, in com. 
pany with a guide by the name of Ilahn, had gone forward to seek a camp to the eastward, and 
had been left far from this place by the guide, who apparently was confused from not knowing the 
country; this guide has never since been heard from. Lieutenant Lyle and party succeeded in 
reaching a little mining camp near Gold Mountain after great hardship. A subsequent guide sent 
by this officer explained that it would be impos.sible to send the main party immediately westward 
toward Camp Indepeudeuce; consequently, after reaching Grape-vine Springs, which, at the western 
slope of the foot-hills of a range of this name, faces upon the northwestern arm of the main Death 
Valley, the train moved to the north and westward, to Deep Spring ^'alley, reaching there a road, 
while a party of picked men took up their route nearly due west to i-each Camp Independence, no 
matter what the intervening obstacles, and succeeded in this after suffering what, up to that time, 
had been some of the most bitter experience that had ever fallen under my ob.servation. 

At this rendezvous, as in fact at all others, the time used for the recuperation of animals and 
arranging for supplies was economically employed by the professional force in local investigation 
and the preliminary redaction of notes. 

At this point the expedition was joined by Lieutenant Lockwood. 

RENDEZVOUS NO. 3, CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA, TO NO. 4. AT COTTON- 
WOOD SPRINGS, NEVADA. 

Lieutenant Lockwood, having been placed in charge of main party No. 2, was ordered to pro- 
ceed well to the south, and tlicn, turning to the eastward, to encircle several of the supposed interior 
and limited local basins, which, although lying in the natural profile which trends toward the Colo- 
rado, still are separate and inclosed. His party skirted the Sierras for a considerable distance below 



EXPLOEATIOX IX XEVADA AND ARIZONA. 17 

Owen's Lake, ami thence to the eastward and across the lower part of Death Valley. The general 
features of this trip, as well as those operations intrusted to his charge at subsequent times during the 
season, will appear in his preliffiinary report, herewith submitted and marked Appendix A. Besides 
a, special party in charge of supplies, who sensibly followed the general direction of main line No. 2 
toward the next rendezvous, another party followed an individual and separate line. Main party 
No. 1, in executive charge of Lieutenant Lyle, broke out of Owen's River Valley to the eastward at 
the head of Owen's Lake, and came to the mountains on the western side of Death Valley, where 
they were joined by a side party that had followed a line via the mines at Cerro Gordo, having 
struck this range of mountains higher up. The main camp was joined by myself after a very severe 
march, when it was fourul that a small party had gone to the northward to effect a connection be- 
tween the two lines. A portion of this party returned, all, in fact, except Mr, Egan, the guide, who 
has never yet been heard from authentically; his fate, so far, is uncertain ; that of any one to have 
followed him in the particular direction he was taking when last seen would have been certain 
death. More details of this matter occur in the report of Lieutenant Lyle. 

The force was massed for the passage of Death Valley, and the camp in advance at Furnace 
Creek selected. TJie entrance to the valley was through a narrow, gorge-like canon, presenting 
among its tortuous walls a variety of contour and color. The descent was very rapid, and the bed 
of the valley below, limited in horizon through the narrow opening by the far mountains to the 
eastward, met our eyes in ^trange and gloomy vibrations through the superheated atmosphere. 

The canon has been named after the valley, and photographic illustrations here made will gi\e 
a far more tangible description than words can convey. Finally, one of the bugbears of the trii), 
that of crossing Death Valley, is over; this particular crossing was near the area of greatest 
depression, and Dr. Hofiman, with an assistant, was sent to the southward to take barometrical 
observations ; he did not rca<li the point ol' greatest depression, however, but the observations from 
present rongh calculations show a level below that of the sea. At our camp at Furnace Creek the 
thermometer at midnight recorded 109° F. This remarkable \alley was crossed in four places. 

The Amargosa Desert is nest encountered, traversed, and camp made at its eastern edge. 
Here it became necessary to find the rendezvous that had been ordered to be established in the 
mountain range to the south and east, which result was determined only after much difficulty, 
owing partly to the surly nature of the Indians found here and the jaded condition of the men and 
animals of the command. Finally, intelligence was gotten through to the rendezvous, and their 
comparatively fresh animals did good service iu bringing all the party to the camp, which had been 
selected at Cottonwood .Springs, in a beautiful locality on the eastern slope of the Spring Mountain 
Range. 

RENDEZVOUS NO. J, COTTONWOOD SPRINGS, NEVADA, TO TRUXTON SPRINGS 
ARIZONA TERRITORY, RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 5. 

Prior to the establishing of the next rendezvous, the Colorado was to be crossed ; a separate 
river party was to be organized and put iu operation ; the rendezvous itself was yet to be selected ; 
also an escort from the Arizona side were to meet us at this point; the land forces were also to keep 
at work, up to their ordinary maximum capacity, and the plan for those operations, involving the 
points already mentioned as well as the seeming necessity of using the boats of the river party to 
cross the land forces at or near the foot of the Grand Canon, had to be nuule up iu advance, and 
with the knowledge that physical difiBculties woidd prevent speedy communication in case of mishap. 
There was no small apprehension on my own part iu regard to the success of the programme after 
it was made out. Subsequently, however, everything that was projected was accomplished, and 



18 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

at the aiiiiouilfd uinrs. The laiul parties wore left in eluuge of Lieuteiiaut Lociiwood, still retaiu- 
iiig tbeir distinctive party organizatiou, their first objective point being Saint George, in South- 
western Utah. Their course to tliis point lay along three lines. The party selected for the ascent 
of the Colorado reached Camp Mohave on the 11th of Septem))er, at which post the boats were 
stored. The boats being in a somewhat damaged couditiou, several days were occupied in repairs 
and gathering supplies. 

A guide was dispatched to meet the escort who were coming from Camp Hualapais as a re 
enforcement: these were to be directed to the rendezvous to be selected, and from thence the guide 
was to make his way to the northward, crossing the Colorado and reacbiug the main land camp; 
this he did with creditable ability and promptitude, and to his action alone belongs, in a measure, 
the success of the operations along this section. The crossing at the foot of the Grand Canon w'as 
reached on the morning of the 4th of October, and on the evening of the 5th the entire expedition 
was most successfully crossed. One main line continued on directly to Truxtou Springs; the 
remaining available force branched out in other directions. Meanwhile the boat party entered the 
jaws of the Grand Canon, not knowing what was before them. Up to this time the rapids, thougli 
often very swift, had not been accompanied with heavy falls, and the estimate for the time requisite 
to reach the mouth of the Diamond Creek, (called "Diamond River" by Ives,) or the most desirable 
point at which to connect with the land camp, was based on our exiierience up to that time, with 
sui)posed due allowance for increasing difficulties, and .so arranged in the instructions given to the 
relief parties. 

Subsequent revelations showed how inadequate was this plan, and also the chances for sufteriug 
that may arise from want of careful judgment and forethought. However, on the 19th of October, 
after many difficulties, in comparison with which any other of the hardships and privations of the 
expedition sink into insignificance, the exhausted boat party reached the moutli of Diamond Creek, 
and are next day gladdened by the sight of the relief party, who visited this i»oiut the second time 
to their assistance. This river trip, occupying only thirty-throe days, was quite an exploration of 
itself, and w ill Ire gi\on its due prominence in the tiual report. 

The ^loliave -Indians accompanying us on this triji proved to be of invalualilc assistance, and 
although -several times wishing to desert, because of the tedious labor and their fear of the Pah 
Utes, with whom they were at war, nevertheless proved faithful and industrious to the cud. 

A side party succeeded in reaching the head of the Diamond Creek after some difficult climbing. 

The complete reiulezvous at Truxtou Springs was accomplished on the 23d of October. 

FROM RENDEZVOUS NO. 5 TO RENDEZVOUS NO. 0, PItESCOTT, ARRIZONA TERRI- 
TORY. 

Tlie main line with the hea\y train debouched to the .southward, reaching the njilitary road 
from Camp Mohave to Prescott, aud then pushed on in advance to establish the camp. Main party 
No. L' followed the rim of the water.shed, dividing the waters that approach the Colorado direct aud 
along the Grand Canon, and those flowing toward tributaries that, joining, enter farther to the 
southward. 

Lieutenant Lyle, witli a picked escort, broke to the .south and cast, with Camp Date Creek as 
an objective point, and thence via Rradshaw mines to Prcscoft. Anotiier .side party visited the 
Hualapais ilistrict, distoured thence in its march to the sontliward, coming into the military road 
near Camp Uualapais, while still another party, going as far as Jlohave, brought instruments, 
supplies, and data deposited there, hence to Prescott. The rendezvous at Prescott was completed 
Novemljer (>. A\'intcr was coming on, and being at least three weeks late in reaching this locality. 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 19 

it was deteruiiued to diminisli sliglitlj- the size of the expedition— which liad at all times been too 
large— at this point; carrying- out this plan, the fearful sequel determined tliat three who had left 
us were among those unfortunates in the late Wickenburgh stage massacre, another one of the 
atrocities committed, so far as circumstantial evidence can determine, at the liands of the Indians 
fed and fostered by our Government upon reservations. 

RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. C TO RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, AT CAMP APACHE, ARIZONA 

TERRITORY. 

The force, fairly organized, started out well in hand. Party No. 1 moving to the eastward 
across the Verde River at the caves, about thirty miles north of Camp Verde, thence in a nearly 
due straight line reaching the high mesa, and finally the northern end of San Francisco Mountains, 
about which detailed examinations were made, thence turning to the south and east. Camp Apache 
was an objective point, and the divide of the waters between the basin of the Little Colorado and 
those of the Verde and Salt Rivers was sensibly the line followed. We were troubled with some 
snow, and now and then unpleasant winds, all of which was agreeably modified after breaking 
from the mesa down into the Tonto Basin. The distance proved to be greater than was anticipated, 
and men and animals reached Apache much jaded. 

Main party No. 2 had arrived at this same point a day or two previous, having crossed our line, 
reaching the Little Colorado, thence via head of the White Mountains. Only a short time was spent 
here, as, already so long in the field, nearly every one was threadbare and ready for rest. 

A photograph of the White Mountain Apaches on ration day was secured. 

RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, TO FINAL RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 8, AT CAMP LOWELL, 

TUCSON, ARIZONA TERRITORY. 

The march between these points was conducted simply in two main lines, one via San Carh^s 
River and Camp Grant, the second via Pinal Mountains and Florence, on the Gila River. 

Tucson was reached on the evening of the 'Ah of December, and preparations for disbaudiiig 
already begun were hastened to a conclusion, and on the 11th everything had been disposed of and 
those of the parties who were to go either to San Francisco or Washington had departed. Seventy- 
one remaining mules, the property of the tpiartermaster's department, were turned over to the 
depot quartermaster, and forty-seven others, engineer property, were sold, with a view of being used 
as transportation in the coming campaign, and it is hoped that these, as also the several experienced 
packers, who remained, may be doing good service in the fight against the Apaches in the war, 
supposed already to have been commenced by General Crook, commanding the department. 

Thus, in the windings in and out of the main and various detached parties a reconnaissance 
line of G,.327 miles has been traversed, or nearly twice the shortest distance from Washington to San 
Francisco. A little more than 83,000 square miles of territory has been examined, lying in the 
following-named political divisions: Nevada, 32,000; California, 19,000; Utah, 1,200; Arizona, 
.31,000. It is safe to say that five-eighths of this is new ground. The expense has been a little less 
than $1 per square mile; per square acre not to exceed sixteen ouehundredths cents. 

The result has exceeded my most sanguine expectations, so much so that present experience 
would compelme to ask for two seasons to cover a similar-sized area, and it is hoped will contribute 
data worthy a place among the records of the Department in regard to this portion of our territory. 
The line has crossed the route of two railroads already projected, the Atlantic and Pacific, and 
Texas Pacific, along areas that will have to be traversed by the Utah Southern, and affords the 
requisite information for those routes north and south which are so mucli needed in the develop- 



20 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

ment of the mining interest, and wliLcli will be eventually reqnired to bold together tlie diverse 
interests of sections separated by large distances latitudiually. 

It may be said tliat mucli of this ground lias been visited before, but, altliougU tlie first party 
of recorded explorers, wLo visited sections familiar among the annals of this trip as early as 1540, 
moi'e than three centuries ago, and have been succeeded by various jjarties subsequently up to the 
present time, still the operations of this season have but joined on to, elaborated upon, and to a 
certain extent completed their work, mapping sensibly only those portions hitherto known as 
unexplored instrumentally upon the able map of the "Western States and Territories compiled in the 
Engineer Department by General G. K. Warren, at that time lieutenant in the Corps of Topo- 
graphical Engineers. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 21 



C IT A P T E R II. 

I shall eudeavor in this cliapter to give tlie general re.sults upon the subject.s mentioned in tbe 
letter of instruction.s from the Chief of Engineers; and, with thi.s in view, shall divide them into 
heads, as follows : 1st, astronoiuical; 2d, topographical ; 3d, phy.sicogeographical ; 4th, ineteorolo- 
gieal ; 5th, geological ; Gth, department of natural history, &:c 

ASTRONOMICAL. 

The great want in the mapping of the western portion of our territory has been the accurate 
establishment of a.strouomical po.sitions. The plan adopted this season has been to secure, at the 
most proper and available intervals of the perimeter of the area surveyed, the mam astronomical 
stations. During this sea.sou these have been to a certain extent accessory to, and governed by, 
the movements of the parties of the expedition. The locations are as follows: Carlin and Battle 
Mountain, Nevada, on Central Pacific Railroad, Austin, Nevada; Camp Independence, California; 
Saint George, Utah; and Pre.scott,- Arizona Territory. Including tho.se determined in 1869, there 
have been established for main stations, under my supervision, eleven points, in the interior of 
our western territory. In nine of these cases, the longitude has been determined by telegraiih. All 
have been solidly marked with stone monuments, and are available for future reference. 

The principal ob.server, 'Mr. E. P. Austin, presents a hasty report, submitted herewith, and 
marked Appendix C, giving a general notion of the character of the work, and the prospective 
value of the results. Another of the observers, Mr. Marvine, who also at times has had his 
attention directed to matters of geology, could, if present during the time of an-anging the material 
for a preliminary report, bear more particular testimony regarding the results at vSaint George, 
Utah, and at Pre.scott, Arizona Territorj-. His observation.s, however, when reduced by the com- 
liutei', will be presented in proper form in the final report. 

In order to comprehend fully the character of the value of this astronomical work, the full 
report will give, in addition to the reductions of our own observers, those of Messrs. Eastman and 
Wheeler, respectively, of the United States Naval Obsei'vatory, at Washington, and that of the 
United States Lake Survey, at Detroit. 

At tjie intei'mediate astronomical stations, the obseivations have been taken with sextants 
giving a check more [tarticularly upon the latitudes. 

The majority of the stations were confined to the two main lines of the survey, and the 
character of the work varies in no remarkable particular from that ordinarily perfonut-d in the 
Pacific Railroad surveys. Data from these observations will be properly grouped in tables for 
future reference. 

TOPOGRAPHICAL. 

The plan pur.sued has been to attach one topographer to each of the main and side parties, 
who was assisted by one observer taking odometer readings, and another person (o read the 
barometer for relative and absolute altitude of the station. 

In the frame-work of the map are the main astronomical points, the intermediate astronomical 
points coming in at the ends of the daily marches, while between each two of these latter the 
topographer takes as many stations as may be needed to satisfy him iu regard to the details. 

The base line is then the meandered line, measured by the odometer, checked by astronomical 
positions and angular bearings from prominent mountain peaks. 



22 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Tlie portable transits employed, Laving a telescope of considerable focal power, give cpiite 
accurate readings for tlie bearings, and a sldllful topograplier, after a little practice, varies but 
sliglitly in bis latitudes and departures from those given by the asta'ouomical positions. The 
aneroid readings give data for a general profile of the routes and the heights of the stations, and 
after these observations are reduced by comparing with the cistern barometer, give a series of 
results of .surprising relative accuracy. 

In the vicinity of the rendezvous camps more time was available, and more minute surveys 
carried out. The contours of the areas, covered by mineral development in two mining districts, 
were taken. 

The method of moving in two lines, flanked at least by one side party adjacent to each, has 
worked very successfully, and in a great measure accounts for the very extensive results obtained 
topogTaphically. The difficulty of keeping these parties supplied, and in a state of active co- 
operation, calls for very constant, strenuous exertions, however, on the part of the officer in charge. 

As a certain allotment of funds and material had been made for one .season's work to cover a 
certain area, it became necessary, in order to consummate the results expected, to work with much 
celerity and little or no intermi.ssion, and the force at my disposal were constantly pi'essed with 
labors that gave them little if any rest, and no recreation from the commencement to the end 
of the season. It is with no little satisfaction that I can bear testimony to the willingness of the 
civilian assistants aiul employi'-s, with scarce an exception, to make any and all exertions, or 
undergo such pi-ivatious as were required of them. 

In gaining topographical information, special attention was given to the determination of the 
lierimeter line of the watersheds of the exterior ami interior basins; to the relative portions of 
mountain and valley; to the size and extent of the arable, mineral, and desert sections ; of the 
distribution of s]n'ings, streams, timber, &c., all of which are to appear in the liiial map or maps. 

The areas inhabited by llie Tiidian tribes are also to be marked out, and the varieties of 
observations afford material for the construction of a number of maps. 

The possil)le location for routes by rail, or common roads, along lines sensiiily north and south, 
have been carefully studied, and to this end the expedition has followed out and made use of the 
system employed in the earlier surveys for a railroad route from the Mississippi to the Pacific 
Ocean ; more accuracy having been obtained because of the sn|)erior character of the astronomical 
stations, and the improvement in field instruments now used. 

The large field traversed while upon various trips since 18G8, np \o that of the present season, 
has rendered me conversant with a considerable section of country over wliicli. in the final to])o- 
grai)hical map, a more systematic nomenclatiu-e can be adopted. 

Among those portions jn-osecnted more in detail, and presenting novel and interesting results 
is the .survey of the Colorado, partly hydrographic in its nature, and which adds unique information 
to the topographical knowledge of our continent. 

The general tendency of projecting too much has been felt in this undertaking,- and must 
always follow as tlie experience of any one who estinmtes for a scheme of exj)loration, no matter 
how little or how greatly elaborate among those sections of our western teiritory still unmajnied, 
where the physical obstacles arc so varied and difficult. 

PIIVSICO GEOr.RAPIIU'AL. 

The operations of the past season have lieen conducted in a great mcasiu'c in and around the 
Great American Desert. 

Go where you will in your journey westward, from the Rocky :\[ountains to the Pacific Ocean, 



EXrLOKATIOX IX XEYADA AXJJ xVEIZONA. 23 

YOU ujiisl crosfiits bune'iiaml luiiaviUng [)laiii.s, valleys, or inoiiiitaiiis. Its coufigiiiatiou is varied, 
as are many of its local characteristics ; in width raugiug IVoin seveuty-five to two huudred aiul 
iifty iivilcs, but nowhere narrowing' so that an east and west line can be prolonged entirely through 
arable sections. 

Tiic elevations ot this great area vary, from the depressiou iu Death "S'alley, below the level 
of the sea, to mountain valleys, from six to seven thousand feet in altitude, surrounded by rugged 
and often desolate ranges, whose summits tower to heights of eleven and twelve thousand feet. 

The general trend of these mountain chains from the fortie.th to the thirty-tifth parallel is 
sensibly north and south, with spurs and ridges that bear for the general part to the northwest 
and southeast, the eastern slopes of the main ridges being by far the most gentle. 

Passing into Arizona, the continuity of the characteristic trend of the Cordillera system is 
somewhat broken iu that area occupying so large a portion of Northeastern Arizona, that will be 
named upon the maps as the Colorado Plateau. Upon the summit of this grand plateau one 
encounters the rolling and broken mesa formation through which ha\e obtruded at many points 
Aolcanic mountain peaks, that lift their black sides far iu the horizon. 

Through the middle of the Territory the ranges, formed of the more primiti^■e rocks, steer on 
in their course, and are met, as it were, by other ranges that, converging in direction, follow onward 
in their deliberate ad\ ance, nmssiug in the Sierra Madres of Mexico. 

The present map subsnitted will give st»ine\vhal of a geni'ral view of these more luominent 
features. 

Physical geography details, always having more direct reference to the vertical lines of a sur- 
vey, have been sought after, and th.e wants of the case attended to so far as possible. The posi- 
tive and relative altitudes of a multitude of points have been secured. 

Profiles along many lines of the basins, both exterior and interior, can Ije produced ; the con- 
figurations of the mountains, \alleys, rivers, creeks, and springs, in their general relation, have 
been noted. The character and suppo.sed extent of the great Colorado Plateau, the peculiar features 
of which have, for tke first time, lieen delineated, were partially studied and need but one more 
expedition to complete. 

Examinations while asceu<ling the famous canon of the Colorado chronicle, in nicntoriam, addi- 
tions to those data, gradually being collated, referring to the beginning of the creation of the world ; 
and while watching the gloomy sides of these grand Wi',lls, listening to the confused mutterings 
of the restless waters, whose continual flow through geologic years have so seldom awakened a 
sound beyond their own echoes, comes the thought that the time necessary for the creation, full 
development, and extinction of one single animal race, falls into insignificance in comparison with 
the eras that may have passed while this erosive agent of nature was stealing slowly down to its 
present bed. 

The exploration has determined the existence and limits of several basins, completely inclosed, 
without drainage to the ocean and outside either of the Great Salt Lake or Humboldt Basius, 
principally found in Nevada, to the east of the Sierras and north of latidudc 35° 30'; of these the 
Death Valley Basin is characteristic. 

The face of the country, especially in those locations where the primitive rocks are superim- 
l)Osed unconformably, by volcanic material belonging to the older series, is rapidly changing li\ 
denudatious ; the constant action of these degradations being to decrease the declivities of the 
mountains, carrying the debris far out into the valleys, the disintegration constantly furnishing 
earthy material for new series of plants from age to age. 

Along very many areas in Nevada and Arizona quite extensive forests fringe the high ukjuii- 



24 EXPLOKATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

tuius and plateaus. The grand Colorado Plateau, so immense in .size, is, over a greal share of its 
fsnrface, covered with pine forest.s and parks. 

The greater portion of tlie area examined in Southeastern (Jalit'oruia was of the most barren 
and desolate nature, tlie bare and brown rocks seldom being relieved by any sort of vegetation. 

riiion pine and a stunted growth of mountain cedar abound in frequent localities in Nevada- 
The pine found after crossing the Colorado is similar in character to what is known as the short- 
leaved southern pine. Fir and hemlock are noted along the slopes of the high mountains; mesquite, 
mountain mahogany, and cactus in the valleys. 

The view from Humphrey's Peak, on the San Franci.sco Mountains, is along a magniticent and 
extended horizon to the northeast, east, and southeast, limited by the plateau formation with its 
mesa bluils of various colors, on the west by the ranges along the Colorado, and on the south and 
southwest by the Black Hills and Mazatzal, while in this direction, also, the gi'and peaks of the 
White Mountaiu Eange tower in the horizon. At our feet lay the upturned mouths of numerous 
craters, upon the sides of which, in many cases, heavy timber is growing, undisturbed by those 
volcanic bursts which, in their efforts to reach an equilibrium, carried high in air the ground now 
under our feet, and raised that lofty pile upon which we were standing, which served a long time 
as a vent'ibr those interior fires, and then became forever silent, leaving what we now see — the bed 
of an immen.se extinct crater. 

It will be with the greatest interest that the future observer carries his studies among the lofty 
peaks, the broken mesas, and astonishing canons of this great Colorado Plateau, which in its geo- 
graphical area covers sjiaces aggregating, pos.sibly, 00,000 square miles, and distributed in four 
political divisions, viz : Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. 

3IETEOROLOG1CAL. 

These observations comprise the usual full scries, taken with the latest and most improved 
instruments. 

At the rendezvous camps hourly observations were taken for the purpose of computing approxi- 
mate tables of the horary corrections at various altitudes through the mountain regions. In addi- 
tion, frequent obsei'vations for the correction of the aneroids and with a view to obtaining a ref- 
erence scale. 

At all camps the usual tridaily barometric, «S:c., observations were taken, while at each one of 
the minor topographical stations the aneroid barometer was read. 

The two hospital stewards who were the observers assisted at the hourly stations. The com- 
putations are now being made, and the results will appear in .sheets giving the general meteoro- 
logical record, the compari.sons of the aneroids and the hourly .series, with plottings of the ai)prox- 
imatc horary curves. 

The results of this season, comprised with those of ISGl), add considerably to the meteorologi- 
cal data of this region. The working-up of these results is at present in the hands of Lieutenant 
Lockwood, and, proving favorable as now ex])ected, will contribute a little to the want that can 
only be sujiijlied by csta))li,shiug a compiehensivc system of permanent meteorological stations, 
(for minute and careful obser\ations,) at high altitudes, throughout the entire western interior. 

(lEOLOGICAL. 

Investigations in this deiiartmcnt were committed to the care of ti. K. Gilbert, who was 
assisted a portion of the time by A. R. Marvine, after the corai)letion of astronomical work at Saint 
George, Utah, and at desultory intervals by C. A. Ogdcn. 



EXPLORATION IX XEVADA VXD AEIZOXA. 25 

I sball present berewitli, marked Appendix D, the report of Mr. Gilbert, wbicli will speak for 
itself, and sustains the high character entertained regarding his labors and abilities. Mr. Marvine 
is at present engaged in placing the results of his examinations in the form of a report. 

NATURAL HISTORY. 

Dr. Walter J. Hoffman, in charge, was assisted by two collectors, besides the volunteer aid of 
certain other members of the expedition, to whom credit will be given in due time. 

The collections of coleoptera and botanical specimens have been large and comprehensive ; iu 
many other branches the scarcity of the material and rapidity of the movements prevented more 
complete and careful collections. 

By authority of the Engineer Department, and through the kindness of Professor S. F, Baird, 
these collections will be al; once sent to the Smithsonian Institution, under whose directions 
the examination of specimens will be conducted. 

MINERALOGY. 

This department has been iu the hands of Dr. Walter J. Hoifman, while various members have 
contributed silver-ore specimens. A report on this subject is being compiled by this gentleman. 

In this connection let me say that an attempt is being made to gather a very large collection, 
fully representing the silver ores of the Pacific coast, by large and characteristic specimens, col- 
lected in duplicate, and deposited in the national museums of the Smithsonian and West Point. 
The nucleus already collected gives promise of good results. 

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. 

There have been observations for declination and dip ; for the former a held theodolite, simply, 
was used ; for the latter a dip circle, procured from the United States Coast Survey, which was, 
however, lost iu the Grand Canon of the Colorado, among many other very valuable and useful 
articles. The record of the observations up to this time was preserved. 

PHOTOGRAPHS. 

In the hands of Mr. O'Sullivan, well known iu connection with his labors on tlie Fortieth 
Parallel Survey and Darien Expedition, a little less than three hundred negatives have been pro- 
duced, illustrating the general appearance of the country, the mining districts, certain geological 
views, and a full and characteristic representation of that very grand and peculiar scenery, found 
only among the canons of the Colorado; a more unique series has hardly been produced in this 
country. 

To add more testimony illustrative of the character and general appearance of the areas tra- 
versed, various sketches have been made along the line of the routes, and among the cafions of the 
Colorado. 

MEANS OF COxMMUNICATION. 

The close of the present century bids fair to be the era, above all others, of increased rail com- 
munication. The great necessity for, and interest evinced in, pushing routes through to the Pacific 
has been accomplished; one line is complete; three others are ]n'ojected, and will, Avithout doubt, 
be built. The east and west lines, then, are secured. Now, it seems that north and south Hues 
are needed to communicate with these east and west liues, to be adjuncts to their usefulness iu the 
tendency to develo]) the mineral resources of this ])ortion of our territory. 
i 



2G EXPLOEATION IX NETADA AND ARIzdXA. 

There should be three roads runuing south from the Central Pacific Railroad aud between the 
Sierras and WaLsatch Monutaius, situated as follows: 

The first, already projected, bears southerly from Salt Lake to the Colorado Eiver, to cross 
near the foot of the Grand Canon. 

The second to leave the railroad, pass througli AYashoe, and theuce along immediately east of 
the Sierras. 

A third leaving the railroad iu a central position, and crossing the Colorado River at the mouth 
of the Virgin. Let these be narrow-gauge roads if you will, but the country needs them to carry 
supplies and material to its mines, and to bring ore aud bullion from them. 

From the reports of Messrs. Lockwood and Lyle, I am led to believe that a new mail and 
wagon route may be constructed from Saint George, Utah, to Prescott, Arizona Territory. Granting 
this, it could at tlie present time be occupied as a mail-route, and upon building the wagon-road, 
troops could then be moved from north to south in our western interior without the heavy expense 
of first transporting them to the seaboard. This route will be through Salt Lake City, on a stage- 
I'oad to Saint George, thence, by a road to be constructed at little expense, to Prescott, Arizona 
Territory. 

In the future, and after the proper development of the mines that have been aud are still 
being discovered in the vicinity of the Colorado Eiver, the means of communication on this river 
will be both increased aud strengthened. 

This exploration has determined that navigation in suitable crafts can be carried much higher 
(lian has been supposed. A little healthy competition, in case there was trafiic enough to warrant 
it, would soon lessen the prices from San Francisco to ]\Iohave from $80 per ton, at present de- 
manded, as I understand, from the citizens. 

However, I am pleased to learn that the present navigation company are offering liberal in- 
ducements to parties desiring to ship ores by their route, on the return trip to San Francisco. 

Steamers at present navigate as high as Camp Mohave, four hundred and twenty-flve miles 
from the mouth of the river ; they have often carried cargoes to El Dorado Caiion, fifty-nine miles 
higher. One steamer succeeded in reaching Callville, about ninety-five miles from Mohave, without 
material difiieulty. It is concluded, should the necessity present itself, that navigation by steam- 
power may be carried to the foot of the Grand Canon, or fifty-seven miles beyond Callville. The 
rehition of tlie power of the engine to the size aud draught of the steamer should be changed for 
navigating above Jlohave, increasing motive-power and decreasing draught and size. Possibly the 
barges should be decreased in tonnage from one hundred and fifty to one hundred tons. Each 
steamer should be fitted with a steam-capstan, aud at certain points ring-bolts should be fastened 
iu the rocks above the heads of the rapids, for cordelling purjioses. 

I would like especially to mention my indebtedness to Captain J. A. INIeHon, of the steamer 
Cocopah, for certain sensible information on this subject. 

Let us suppose that we can navigate as far as the foot of the Grand Canon ; tlie question nat- 
urally comes up, what necessity, present or prospective, calls for this ? I will answer, so far as my 
observation leads to a conclusion, that the wants of the preseut century will ask for no line of 
transportation to ascend the river higher than Cottonwood Island, which point might be made the 
depot for traffic to interior mining localities iu Nevada aud Arizona; (see map.) 

But to return to the east and west lines, now in process of construction ; it seems certain, from 
the increased evidence adduced, from the nature of the travel and transportation along that single 
line already constructed, that the time is uot greatly in the future that, if we expect to gatlier 
transcontinental shipnients, some one road, reliable at all seasons of the year, must be completed ; 



KXPLOKATIOX JX NEVADA AXJ> AillZUXA. 27 

aud the experience which my present travels has afforded ])ledges opinion in favor of the line lately 
snrveyed in the vicinity of the thirty fifth parallel. 

INDIANS. 

The experience of this season has <;iven consideriible farther opportunity for studying the 
Indian character, their habits of life, geographical distribution, iS:c. This experieuce has in no way 
produced a sympathy with that class of well-intentioned bnt illy-informed citizens who chiiui that 
the Indians are a much-abused race. 

My several trips of the past four years ba\ e allowed fidl opportunity for immediate observation 
on this subject ; therefore, in a subsequent report, I propose to present my views at greater length. 

The areas inhabited by, and known as the country of, the Sho.shones, Pah-Utes, Chemehuevis, 
Utes, Mohaves, Seviches, Hualapais, Apache-Mohaxes, Cosuiuas, Apache, (Tontos, Pinals, Coyoteros 
and Arivapas,) &e., ha\e been pretty accurately determined, and will lie mapped out. It was 
with no little surprise that, upon examining the best sources of information, viz, that obtained 
through Army officers, it was found that the actual number of the Apache warriors, who could take 
the field, wonld not exceed fifteen hundred. Major John (ireen, of the First United States Cavalry, 
who has had considerable experience among them, positively asserted that they could not muster 
twelve hundred men from all the tribes, including the White JEountain Indians, many of whom 
have been upon reservations since IStiS. 

All the tribes, without exception, belong to that wild, roving breed known as "Mountain 
Indians." Their lawless and migratory life has carried them beyond the notion of anything like 
order, even among their own people. 

It may not be uninteresting, at this particular period, when there are so many diver.se opinions, 
or rather theories, extant regarding the position or supposed condition of the hostile Indians in the 
Southwest, to acquaint the War Department, through the medium of this report, with the influence 
that the Indians, as we found them, have had as a help or as a biuderance to the objects of this 
exploration, so that at subsequent periods, when other parties shall have in hand the duties of sur- 
veying out remote, inaccessible, and inhospitable regions, they may have the benefit of the expe- 
rience. 

The general plan of moving in two lines, and receiving the co-operation of small side [larties, 
cannot but work admirably in any scheme of geographical exploration. Let us see how uiuch 
friendly Indians can be of service. 

We will premise that it is incompatible to divide up into four or five parties in a hostile 

country without calling on the military posts for greater escorts than could be reasonably expected 

from them ; therefore, as in the present case, it was found necessary to move in two parties only, 

while engaged in those parts of Arizona known as the habitation of the hostile Apache. This fact 

explains the principal hinderauce. It is almost impossible to obtain white guides who have any 

accurate knowledge of regions sensibly new, while hardly any nook or corner can be fmind not well 

known to the Indian ; hence in the selection of suitable camping-places, and as assistants to a 

natural guide, or to a white man who shall exercise judgment as to the movements of the command, 

their services can be made very valuable. The entire expedition, composed of officers, soldiers, and 

civilians averaged from eighty to one hundred and ten, being divided into parties varying from 

five to fifty. 

The little parties are really the ones that accomplish the most actual work. In Nevada, to 

each one of these little parties an Indian could be attached, and oftentimes two, who, in view of a 

small remuneration and plenty of food, served both as guide and laborer, thereby causing a positive 



28 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

beuelit, aiul, in all cases, ivlieviiig that apprebeusiou of danger wliieb all parties in a new country 
must experience, and which, to many, is more uncomfortable than danger itself. 

From among the Pah-Utes, in the Spring Mountain Ilange, often as many as seven or eight 
guides and messengers were employed at one time. These Indians have been considered friendly 
for some years, but frc(ineutly prospectors, in parties of two, going out into the mountains, never 
return. They have, however, a wonderful regard for a superior force. 

The semi-hostile Indians, as the Seviches, south of the Colorado, find the renegade Hualapais, 
found bordering the country of the Apache-Mohaves, can be made useful to a certain extent by a 
party of respectable size. No squad less than five in number should at present trust themselves 
among them. 

From the friendly Indians the ranchmen and miners get more or less assistance in and around 
their farms, working in the mines and as messengers; in this way they greatly facilitate the early 
development in this section. 

Now, how is all this changed, when one comes into the hostile Apache country! A party with 
a proper guard may travel for weeks and never see an Indian, except here and there, outside of 
range, and then generally more wild than a deer. 

In conducting examinations, a single member even of the professional corps must be provided 
with a guard before it is safe for him to pass the brow of a hill in front of camp. 

By dint of great perseverance, a s emi-friendly Indian maybe impressed into the service of 
guiding a party into a hostile country, but there is no certainty that he will be true to his trust. 

This hasty .sketch gives some notion of the disadvantages of conducting an exploration over a 
country occupied by hostile Indians; the subject needs only to be suggested to call attention to 
the fact that eveiy essential detail is, of a necessity, greatly contracted. 

The well-beaten Apache trails from Arizona to Sonora attest the fact of the lines long followed 
in raids upon the Mexican ranches and stock. 

The legend exists among the Apaches that they were once a concentrated and powerful race, 
far surpassing in strength the Navajoes, with whom they had frequent encounters. Their horses, 
cattle, and sheep were plenty ; their crops large ; their chiefs came from a line of hereditary princes. 
Finally, dissensions arising, the cupidity of certain upstart chieftains caused troublous times, the 
dividing into separate bands, and a general war among themselves resulting. The cud came in 
complete desolation and poverty. This continued nearly up to the time of the acquisition of the 
territory by the United States, when, against a common enemy, the white nmn, they banded 
together for defense. The secret of their great terror to the whites is their lawless and roving life, 
giving celerity to their movements, with great powers of endurance. The common experience in 
settling questions with such tribes, and the only one that has proven successful, is to thoroughly 
whip them, after which they never make any determined resistance. 

The Indians of Arizona have never been made to feel that they had any master beyond their 
own will for a wild and Bohemian life. No continuous concentration of force has been directed 
to their rancherias and villages, there to meet and teach them that they must give up their habits 
of violence and murder, or submit to the inevitable ftite of destruction. 

Let the Indian policy of this Government be what it may, the Indian question in Arizona will 
never be settled until the campaigns of an energetic oflicer shall thoroughly whip and subdue 
them. Let this be done, and they are then as amenable as the Shoshonos of Nevada or the Hua- 
lapais of Northwestern Arizona. 

The tribes encountered during the present season will be denominated, respectively, as friendly, 
semi-friendly, and hostile. In the first we must place the Sboshones, Pah-Utes, Chemehuevis, Utes, 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 2f) 

Mohavcs, ami possibly the Hualapais, as they are now nearly all on a reservation, and no longer 
consider it policy to bold out against the whites. In the second, Seviches, Apache-Mohaves, Cos- 
niuas, and Apache-Coyoteros. Among those uudonbtedly hostile are the Apaches, known as Ton- 
tos, Finals, and Arivapas. Other Apache tribes, as the Mescaleros, Bouitos, and those governed 
by Cachise, were outside the limits embraced in the present exploration. 

In this connection it seems almost impossible not to revert to that source of disaster to three 
members of the expedition, who were victims iu the Wickenburgh stage massacre, for which I most 
thoroughly believe the Indians are responsible. Considerable trouble was taken iu investigating 
this case through the agency of parties sent to the locality, and the weight of evidence couvicts 
the Indians, and possibly those, too, who were drawing their food and supplies from the Govern 
ment. From a careful study of the case, I am led to believe that the Indians in the vicinity of the 
Date Creek reservation, as iu fact those in various other localities iu Arizona, gathered courage 
from the fact that a peace commissioner had lately been in their midst, and hence thought with the 
greater impunity to commit this deed of violence with v^hich their innate character had so much 
natural sympathy. Here were three men who had mastered all the toils and hardships of a severe 
campaign, who started homeward pleased with the thought of dangers escaped and duties well 
performed, who, after passing what was supposed to be unsafe ground, fell victims to au Indian 
ambuscade. One of these, a young mau just entering upon his career, with years of promise be- 
fore him, one drop of whose blood the whole Apache race could not expiate, parted with his life; 
and forgetting all else, in the records of humanity, this life, as well as that of the others, should 
be charged to the Indians. 

Wherever opportunity afforded, conciliatory talks were held with the Indians, and the result 
was advantageous in the case of the Tah-Utes and Mohavcs. The former tribe, assisted by the 
Chemehuevis, who are au allied race, had been at war for five years with the Mohavcs; the cause 
of this difflculty was sought out, advice given, aud during the river trip the captain of the Mo- 
haves, who accompanied us, had a meeting with one of the Tah-Ute captaius, through whom an 
amicable adjustment was arrauged. 

The ruins of the famous Aztec tribes, a name so rliythmical iu legend, were met iu many local- 
ities. Their status can be referred to as little better thau— if iudeed quite as good as— those 
Pueblo Indians, among whom we now have evidences remaining iu the Zuuis and Moquis besides 
other local tribes on the Eio Grande, however great their numbers might have been. They were 
doubtless driven from their accustomed habitations by the Apaches coming from the southward, aud 
forced to seek for shelter those caves occupied by them as fortifications, finally becoming extinct, 
as must every race in the presence aiul in the line of progress of that race superior both in num 
bers and intelligence. 

SITES EOPv MILITARY POSTS. 

These refer to positions for occupation aud for operations. The selection for tlie sites of 
temporary or permanent military posts generally originates with the general commanding either 
the division or department, and their basis is determined by his peculiar ideas of the necessity 
therefor. 

Scouting parties ordiiuirily discover a sufacient number of places, in advance of the pushing for- 
ward of troops into a new, hostile Indian country, and their reports go ou record at the headquarters; 
therefore the results on this subject will be shown simply in marking upon the final map those 
points that can be conveniently occupied for military posts or scouting camps. 



30 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AKlZONx^. 

INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. 

The climatology of the Pacific coast, altbougli a subject of great iuiportaiice and interest, yet, 
for the want of systematic data, remains in a very vague condition. 

So far as the climatic oscillations now in progress are concerned, the general observations of 
so Lasty an exploration can bear no great testimony. Beyond the geological examinations tliat 
notice the translation of alluvial material by direct atmospheric influences, our investigations were 
confined more directly to the quite complete series of meteorological observations. At the present 
time these are not in shape to be analyzed. 

The principal portion of our time was .spent in the great basin of the Colorado, and among 
some of the outlying or rather interior basins to the northwest. At present, thi'oughout this area, 
arable sections are .scarce, and but few of these have been entered by the settlers. Little by little, 
however, the desert edges will be reclaimed by irrigation, and reference has only to be made to 
that narrow strij) of mountain valleys in the western portion of Utah, now inhabited by the 
Mormons, to .show what the Land of industry and neces.sity may do in reclaiming arid lands and 
bringing them under cultivation. I cannot but believe that many of the monntaiu valleys in Ne- 
vada and Arizona will at no distant date become peopled, as are now uiany of those from Salt 
Lake to the southward. 

It is generally admitted that large auKKuits of the acpieous vapors from the oceans rise to the 
higher currents of the ai'mosphere and are there carried, by rapid rates of motion, through long, 
and wide intervals. The great atmospheric gulf stream of the middle and southwestern Pacific 
Ocean impinges with its humid strata along the entire Pacific coast. A portion in the higher 
currents, from local surroundings, reaches its maximum of condensation while passing over the 
coast range, while the remainder progresses onward until it is caught by the Sierras, where it de- 
l>osits in the form of rain or snow. 

The upper portion of the great interior basin beyond lies exterior to this influence. The broad 
Tulare Valley of California in between the Sierras and the coast, if it could rise up and catch this 
moisture, would become the .scene of a luxurious vegetation, whereas now tJn- changes from the 
Acry wet to the very dry season, annually, are strongly marked. 

Let us suppo.se, however, that from the irrigating power that'can be .secured from the streams 
that rise in the Sieiras, and have their primal source from the.se same humid currents of the upper 
air, 5,000,000 of acres could be brought under culti\ation, with fields of corn and wheat, groves of 
fruit and forest trees, and varieties of vegetation, will it not be reasonable to conclude that, during 
this interval, the local surrounding climate will undergo slow changes, so that the atmosphere 
charged with humidity from this immen.se evaporation will bring about its own deposits of rain, 
thereby cau.siug a temporary vacuum, as it were, into which would fall portions of the moisture, at 
that time in passage in the higher regions ? Such a theory is not yet supported by known and pro- 
nounced facts ; it may not be uninteresting to consider it iu advance as among those changes to 
climate that the industries of man are producing. This same surcharged upper stratum that strikes 
the coast farther to the southward, follows the bed of the Colorado for a long distance, and the 
effects from it branch farther out as the api)roach is made to the higher ranges of mountains, situ- 
ated iu the northeastern portion of that basin. 

In this direction, the Sierras having lost their specific character, and breaking over toward 
the coast range, do not impose a barrier, and none is met until the Wahsatch and Uintah Mountains 
are reached, in whose higher altitudes it is understood that the humidity, that has had its origin 
at the .surface of the sea, is felt, and can be noticed by the more delicate meteorological instru- 
ments. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 31 

Extreme rauges of temperature have been eucountered along the route, raugiug from 8° F. 
as the maximum cold, to lOQo F. at midnight, for tlie greatest beat. Difference of Cet and dry 
bulb readings, give a range from 5o F. to ioo F. Tlie equability of temperature and regularity of 
the winds and rains of most of the valleys south of 38° latitude and until Southern Arizona is 
reached, comliinc to render the climate a very healthy and agreeable one. 

AGRICULTURAL AND GRAZING LANDS. 

As before stated, the arable lauds of Nevada are very small in relative amount; contrasting 
Nevada with xVrizona, the latter has the advantage in relative proportions, as will be shown by the 
statistical map to be constructed. 

Nevada cannot claim to be an agricultural section, but most of the local wants for the mining 
inhabitants could be supplied from home production. In Arizona, in and around Prescott, along 
the valley of the upper Gila, Salt and Verde Rivers, south of Tucson, along the Santa Cruz River 
and Sonoita Creek, there is an area capable of sustaining quite an agricultural populatiou; some 
of the finest soil that I have ever seen has lately been broken up along the Gila, and around the 
settlement called Florence. 

In the matter of natural lacilities for grazing hirge herds of stock, Arizona ranks Nevada ; 
in the number of mining districts Nevada leads far in the advance. As far as the probable amount 
of bullion from the two, at a time twenty years from now, is concerned, it is hard to say. It is be- 
lieved that after the Indian difliculty is settled, and railroads are brought into Arizona, that 
districts already examined will be worked profitably, and stimulus given to further and more care- 
ful prospecting. AVhen the Indians have become peaceable, the valleys and rolling foothills will 
afford the most excellent pasturage for very large herds of stock, with their covering of bunch and 
gramma grasses. At the present time, stock not herded by a respectable force is not safe in any 
portion of Arizona, except at certain localities along the Lower Gila and Colorado, and in the Hun- 
lapais country, or northwestern part of the Territory. 

It is safe, also, to say that the time is close at hand when these areas will become great graziug- 
grounds, for, in the onward march of population, (he stock-ranches skirting the tributaries to 
the west of the Mississippi and, Missouri Rivers must give way to the settler who wishes to till 
the soil, and the value per acre gradually gets beyond where it becomes profitable to use it for 
stock-raising purposes. Thus, year by year, droves of horses, cattle, and sheep are being driven 
more and more toward the far West ; valleys in Nevada that in 18G9 were uninhabited were heard 
to have been filled up subsequently with stock during the interval, and within two years every 
available stock-range iu the State will have been appropriated. 

Very little- game is found in and around the more desert portions of Nevada and Arizona ; in 
iact it may be .said that there is a zone of comparatively no game, whether large or small, limited 
on the west by the Sierras, on the east by the Wahsatch Mountains, north by 40°, and south by .35° 
30' north latitude. 

In Northeastern and Eastern Arizona many herds of deer and antelope were seen ; bear, of the 
brown or cinnamon and grizzly varieties, and wild turkey. A certain strip, commencing on the 
eastern part and continuing south into Arizona, is also frequented by many species of game. 

Coal, of economic value, lay but at one portion of our route, so far as had been. discovered, 
and that was at the northwestern end of the White Mountains. Many carboniferous strata ap- 
pear, but the coal-beds are wanting. 

In and around Death Valley, among the carious of the Colorado, and at very many mining dis- 
tricts, granite and various volcanic rocks, offering a good variety of building material, were noted. 



32 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AXD AEIZOXA. 



MIXES. 

This subject, which above all others merits the most attention of any one of the practical and 
immediately remiinerative interests belonging to the field of this exploration, had not a promi- 
nent place in the letter of instructions. However, my experience on the western slope at other 
times thau during the present seasou has thrown me much among the mines and miners, and 
I believe it is to be the one subject which, if studied practically, cau be more benefited by honest 
industry in examiuatiou and intelligence in description thau any other that refers either to the 
commercial or industrial pursuits of the racific coast. At the present time I am labormg under 
two great difficulties. First, many of the valuable detailed notes collected during the past four 
years, and appearing as memoranda in certain books that wei'e inadvertently taken on the Colorado, 
were lost at the bottom of that river; and second, very many other later and duplicated notes 
are now en route; therefore memory has measurably to satisfy the claims that attach to this im- 
portant subject. 

The total lunuber of mining districts within the area covered by the exploration was ninety- 
two, of which eighty-six were visited by some member or members of the expedition; of these 
fifty-seven are in Xevada, eighteen in California, seventeen in Arizona. In connection with those 
entered in 18C0, my immediate attention has been called to more than one hundred districts, mostly 
of the silver-bearing ores. The location and size of all these appear on the map, and from it a 
great deal of valuable information regarding the practicability of reaching these districts, with a 
view to any mining oiieration, can be obtained. 

Personal examinations were made in the mining districts by Lieutenants Lockwood and Lyle, 
])r. Hoffman, and Civilian Assistant Gilbert, all of whom pi'esent memorandum reports. In some 
cases a topographical party alone visited the district. In order to facilitate the amount of informa- 
tion to be gained from the necessarily hasty examinations of many districts, lists of questions, 
forty-five in number, a copy of which is attached to show the character of the information that 
was obtained, were prepared, so as to be filled ont while in the district. It will be attempted to 
duplicate as much as possible of the information to be gained hereafter, from tlie recorders or 
residents of the district, to replace that lost in the Colorado. 

LIST OF QUESTIONS. 

1. Date of discovery of this district. 

2. Has the district been woikcd at intervals, or continuously, since that time ? 

3. Name of recorder. 

4. Name of postmaster. 

."). Name of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s agent. 

(!. Distance from railroad coramuuication, and nearest practicable route. 

7. Description in detail of the geographical boundaries of the district. 

8. Position of mining ledges in regard to the m.ain range of mountains in vicinity, /. f., whether in a canon or along 
foot-hills; and, if the latter, on which slope. Give general trend of monntains in vicinity, as well as that of marked 
spurs, ridges, and foot-hills. 

9. General direction of lodes, (lci)osits, and stratilications. 

Ul. In case there are any real or siipposititious fissure- veins, or others of a permanent character, name tlic wall-rock, 
direction of the slopes, and planes of the hanging and foot-walls of the vein at ditierent levels, aud items of evidence 
of the existence of a permanent or regnliir vein. Amount and location of timber, wood, and water ; this latter description 
in detail. 

11. Geological age of the rocks in the vicinity of the mineral devcdopiiiciits and (licir inin(ralni;ical characteristics. 
Till' nature and <|uantity of fossils, if any are found in the country rock. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 33 

1'2. Nature of ores in viciuity, ;. c. whether they are worked by free or wet, roastiug or smelting process, ami 
average yield per ton. 

13. Gross annual production of bullion from tho mines, as well as that for each month of the year since the 
beginning, giving also the number of tons worked, as near as may be. 

14. Average cost per ton for mining the ore. 

15. Average cost per ton for milling the ore. 
10. Average cost per ton for roasting the ore. 

17. Average cost of mining labor, per diem. 

18. Average cost of milling labor, per diem. 

19. Cost of grain and hay ; facilities for raising farm produce, stock, &c. 

•20. Number of mills and description of each, with the cost of, and amouut of ore that each can work; this 
should give the weight of stamps and number of drops i^er minute, size of engine, number of boilers, number of pans 
and settlers, amalgamation process, and cold or hot straining of amalgam. 

'21. The principal mines now worked, with the description of each in detail. 

22. Amount expended in the miueral development of any of the principal veins, and probable amount of bullion 
extracted from the same. 

23. Number of inhabitants of the district. 

24. Number of freight or stage lines. 

25. Price of freight and passage from railroad. 

2S. Number of churches, school-houses, banking-houses, stores, &,c. 

27. Cost at the present time of a 10-stamp mill, with or without a Stedefeldt or other roasting furnace, also of an 
ordinary smelting furnace, in this district ; this should itemize first cost of machinery, transportation to mill site, and 
construction acconut. 

28. Average amouut of ore that can be sloped by pue man in one day. 

29. Average amouut of ore that can be extracted by oue man in one day. 

30. Whether tunnels should be run in vein matter or in the country rock. 

31. Average cost per foot for running a tunnel on main veins. 

32. Average cost pev foot for sinking a shaft ou main veius. 

33. Average cost per foot for running a drift on a main vein. 

34. As nearly as may be, the exact area in the district covered by the miueral croppings and developments, giving 
area in acres, shape of area, and trend of longer axis. 

35. State as near as may be the veal or supposititions water-level in the veius, and if the water-level has been 
reached, state whether there has been a change in the nature of the ore. 

36. Is there any economical building-stone in the locality ? 

37. Are there any indications of coal in the neighborhood, or have any been reported? 

38. How many head of stock in the viciuity, and are more coming iu ? 

39. What kinds of game are found ? 

40. Nature of roads. 

41. Names of Indian tribes, number of Indians, men, women, and children. 

42. Do assays show the presence of gold in any of the silver-bearing ores in the district .' 

43. Procure copy of the mining laws of the district. 

44. Chauces for a decrease in the expense of any of the items incurred in mining industry. 

45. Any proposition relative to a change iu the mining laws, that shall give more rcrtainty to the final acquiremeut 
of title and prevent chauces of "jumping" and litigation. 

Ill view of the preseut coudition of the data in this matter, it seems proper to confiue this report 
to circumstances concerning the locality of the various districts, the general character of the ores, 
the nature of the inclosing and country rock, the prospect of permaueucy in the veins, &c., and 
close the subject with a few suggestions niul recommendations. 'Sh: Gilbert alone presents 
geological notes. 

DISTRICTS INi NEVADA. 

These will be mentioned sensibly in their order from nortli to south. Many of these districts 
are not new, having their place in reports already made and published, but, coming within the 



34 EXPLOEATION IN if EVA DA AND AEIZONA. 

liues ot the I'outes traversed, were always entered wbeu opportuuity occurred, witli a view to record 
any change in the condition of the mining industry at the date of our visit. 

The reports to wliich the above reference is made are fhose of the United States Commissioner 
of ^Mining Statistics, Vol. Ill of the Fortieth Parallel Geological Survey, and those of the State 
mineralogist of Nevada. 

BULL KUN DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

White Eock City, the principal location in this district, and the only one that is uow active, is eiglity-nine miles 
north from C'arlin, on the Central Pacific Railroad. The connecting wagon-road, which is of fair r|naliry, follows 
Maggie's Creek and Independence Valley. The Bull Run Range has a north and south trend, and forms the eastern 
limit of the broad valley of the Owyhee. At the point in qirestion it consists chiefly of (1) a bluish-gray, bastard 
limestone, somewhat altered, checked by frequent veins of calcite running at all angles; (2) gray, impure quartzite, 
passing on the one hand into argillaceous schist, and on the other into impure sandstone, resting against (3) a gray, 
homogeneous, syenitic granite. The granite is seen along the western foot of the range, and in ascending to the divide 
one crosses the edges of the stratified beds, which rest against it, and dip at 30^ to 60= to the east. A system of fissure 
veins substantially conforming to the dip and trend of the strata, traverses all the metamorphio beds, and even the 
granite, but is metalliferous only in the former. The metal mined is silver, and its principal associate is lead. So far as 
wrought, the veins have afi:brded chiefly oxidized ores, but some sulphides have been found, though the water-line has 
not yet been reached. There are no mills, and the ore is packed on mules to Cope district for reduction. 

The principal mines in operation are the Central Pacific, Porter, and Town Treasure. The number of men employed 
is small, and the entire population does not exceed fifteen ; the mines are comprised in an area two miles north and 
south by one mile east and west. There are no stage or freight lines. The best available buildiug material is timber, 
with which White Eock Canon is well supplied. Water for mill use is at hand, and at the canon of Bull Run Creek, 
a few miles farther south, is an available mill-site, with water-power.* 

A hurried personal visit was made to this locality, not so much, however, to examine the mines 
as to cross the divide of the waters of the Humboldt and Columbia Basins, and gain a look along 
the valley of the Owyhee, which observation alone paid for a long ride of nearly two hundred 
miles. The heavy snow on the mountains had not disappeared, and evidently the miners were 
waiting for the opening of the spring in order to commence vigorous woik. Samples of ore, both 
chloride and sulphide, looked very x)romisiug, so far as this alone could show. The majority of the 
ores require roasting, and hence that heavy weight of expense per ton must act here, as it has so 
often in other regions, as an incubus to speedy developments. Th6se mines had been opened but 
little at this date; however, it has since been understood that arrangements have been comi)lotcd 
to bring in niachinciy, and, if the ore developments have kept pace, good test evidence will already 
have been furnished of what may be expected of this mining camp. 

Poor placers have been found in the little basin to the eastward of the main range, but they 
have been abandoned as tmproli table. Similar placers, it is understood, have been slightly worked 
in the neighborhood of the mines at Cope district. 

COPE DISTRICT, NEVADA.t 

Discovered in 1869. Worked continuously since that interval. From Mountain City, the only mining camp in the 
dLstriet, to Elko, via the stage-road, the distance is ninety miles. 

The ores are principally sulphurets. Fuel for roasting is abundant, at convenient jilaces. Mining labor costs here 
^4.50 per day. There have been two large mills erected here, extracting some bull inn. 

The X)rincipal mines worked in June, 1871, are as follows : Mountain City, Pride of the West, Argenta, Excelsior, 
Independent, U. S. Grant, Eldorado, Crescent, Idaho, Nevada, Emmett, and Saint Nicholas. A study of names on the 
recorder's books of the many mining districts furnishes much of an index to the character of the miners and prospectors, 
who often place no little stress and pride upon the names selected with so much solicitude. Number of residents, about 

* From notes furnished by Sir. G. K. Gilbert, 
t From notes furnished by Mr. F. E. Simonton, 



EXPLORATIOX IINT NEVADA. AND ARIZONA. 35 

four liundred autl fifly; one freight and one stage lino to Elko. The eomitry roads are good in tbis vicinity. Tbe 
Shoshone Indians inhabit this locality, catching many salmon for themselves and the miners during the season. One 
of the forks of the bead-waters of the Owi; beo tr.averses this district. It is believed that mauy of tbe late developments 
do not favor tbe idea of permanency, although tbe present stage of tbe opening of tbe mines is not sufficiently advanced 
to warrant a definite conclusion. 

Notes from J. W. Drew, late Uuiteil States Army, give au altitude of 5,800 feet to the camp ; 
also, average of temperatures, maximum ami miiiimuai, as occurriug iu July aud December, former 
Sio, 21 F., latter 20°, 4.5 F. Suow liable to fall auy time between November 1 and April 30. 



Situated in a ratlier isolated comb-shaped range, this district lies to the east of the head of 
Maggie Creek, and about forty-live miles from Carliu, on the Central Pacific Railroad; it is more 
approachable, however, from Elko, Nevada, via the stage-road to Cope district. The district was 
only vi.sited by a topographical party. Very little work has been done on the mines, and but 
little prospecting even, iu this locality. The majority of the ledges are noted as occurring on the 
eastern slope of the mountains. Some Inter prcspects have been found on the western side, carry- 
ing argentiferous galena and carbonate ores, well charged with irou as both coloring and matrix 
matter. The specimens gathered from mines on the eastern side show galena aud poor sulphuret 
ore, carrying considerable carbonate of copper. There is evidently a field for intelligent prosiiecting 
in this vicinity. 

TTJSCAEOEA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Tbe Tuscarora placer mines are on the southward slope of hills of rbyolite, facing Independence Valley, aud are 
fifty-six miles by road, north from Carliu Station. The dirt is derived from subjacent rock, and covers it to hut a small 
depth in the gulches— 5 to 10 feet. The gold has the same origin, and can be obtained in small quantity from tbe 
parent rock. Some spots shoAved so much as to induce the erection of a ten-stamp mill ; but the amount extracted was 
not remunerative, and the mill is idle ; there are no veins. Tbe dirt is washed in sluices, with water brought two to six 
miles, the supply availing but three or four mouths. The gold is combined with silver, and brings $12 to |I3 jier ounce. 
The diggings occupy a belt one-half mile by two miles. Most of the miners are Chinamen, working in companies 
Population about one hundred and twenty-five. There is no timber convenient. 

RAILROAD DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

This district, situated south of Carliu, on the Central Pacific Railroad, and at a distance of 
twenty-one miles, was visited by a topographical party. Specimens collected. The notes are want- 
ing. The district was established in June, 1870. The ores are very base, and should bo more 
properly termed copper ores. They, however, carry average assays of silver, and iu consequence of 
their proximity to the railroad, with which they are now connected by three good mountaiu roads, 
some, at least, of the.se properties will be profitably worked. 

MINERAL HILL DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

Discovered in June, 18G9. It has been worked nearly continuously since that time. 

A stage-line connects with Palisades on Central Pacific Railroad about thirty-one miles distant. 
The ledges are principally on the northwestern side of a conical-.shaped hill, being an outlier to the 
west from the main mountains ; direction of the mineral veins, northwest aud southeast. The devel- 
opment that had taken place at the time of our visit did not show the best of indicatious for 
the presence of a permanent vein, but gave more the appearance of pockets iu limestone, which 
exhaust, bringing up iu their downward coiu-se upon the country rock. However, it is understood 

• From uotes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 



36 EXPLOKATIO^S^ IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

that at the White Piue district, after exhaustiug these basius, frequently others are I'ouiul by 
sinking directly or following some mineral thread or discoloration. The ores belong to the base 
metal order, abounding in sulphurets of silver and lead and carbonate of copper. In order to 
extract an economic percentage, the roasting process has to be applied. The gross production up 
to June 1, 1871, or in two years, was ■«'600,000: number of tons, 3,300; cost of mining the ore, per ton, 
$5; cost of milling the ore, including roasting, per ton, $30 ; raining and milling labor per diem, §4. 
There is one 15-stamp mill with a Stedefeldt furnace erected here at a total cost of §80,000; its 
capacity is 22 tons in twenty-four hours. 

The principal mines worked are the Austin, Mary Ann, Kiiu Rock, Grant, Star of the West, 
Vallejo, and Pogonip; upon these mines, with the exception of the Austin, about $80,000 have been 
expended; returns 8450,000; upon the Austin about $50,000 expended, returns so far 8150,000. 
Number of inhabitants, four hundred and fifty nearly. One stage and a variety of freight-lines 
connect with the railroad. Cost of freight, 1 cent per pound. Stage fare, $S. The cost of a 
10-stamp mill at this locality, with a Stedefeldt furnace, is estimated at $65,000, estimating $13,000 
for the furnace; both this and the total amount being liberal estimates. The whole area covered 
by mineral croppings will hardly exceed one mile square. There is at present no indication of 
reaching a water-level. A species of natural flre-stone, valuable for the lining of the furnace, is 
found not far distant. Water is obtained in limited quantities in a caiion to the north and east, 
along which the little mining town has been built. Wood is not plenty in the immediate vicinity, 
though large tracts are in view upon the sides of the mountains to the north and east. The 
Shoshones inhabit this region, and work to a limited extent for the miners. The country roads in 
this vicinity are solid. When the local tariffs on the railroad and the price of labor diminish, many 
items that affect the cost of the extr.actiou of the bullion at this comparatively accessible district 
will be cheapened. This district was visited by one of the members of the fortieth parallel geo- 
logical survey. Many new develoiuuents have been made since that time. 

DIAMOND DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

(Visited by a topographical party. Results fi'om a few scattering notes.) 
Situated on the western slope of the Diamond Range, north and west from Diamond Station, 
on the old overland stage-road. Diamond City is the name of the little camp. The Mammoth 
mine has been well opened by a shaft, now more than 75 feet. The elevation at the mouth of this 
shaft is 7,740 feet. The ore is principally argentiferous galena, giving assays as high as $270 i)er 
ton, and carrying 72 per cent, of lead. Veins run north and south, crossing an east and west 
stratified rock, about one and one-half miles in width. A smeltiug-furnace. soon to be in operation, 
was being built. The original locators, having wasted some money in imiirovemcnts, abandoned 
afterward their claims. The principal locations are the Champion, Iliddeu Treasure, Patriot, 
Curtis, and Keller. The location of these mines in regard to the railroad and the high percentage 
of silver, ought to establish profitable enterprises in this distiict if the mines are systematically 
worked. 

EACINE DISTRICT, KEVADA. 

(From scattering notes by a topographical paity.) 

Situated about forty-five miles from Elko, on the western slope of the Humboldt Range, and 
east of Dutchman's Station on the White Pine stage-road. All the appurtenances for a mining 
camp are here abundant. Very little development made, and this only upon two mines — the Uncle 
Sam and De Witt. Elevation of mines, 7,440 feet; specimens show several varieties of base silver 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 37 

ores, and are all from the cropi.)ings. A little legitimate prospecting may fiud surface indications 
to warrant the investment of a certain amount of capital to determine the character of this area ot 
mineral land. 



This district lies on the stage-road from Palisades, on Central Pacihc Railroad, to iiamiltou, 
White Pine County, seventy-nine miles distant from the former station. The mines were first dis- 
covered in 1868, worked for a period, and then partially abandoned, after whi(;h, iu the spring of 
1870, developments were going on in full vigor. Seven furnaces were in operation, the most suc- 
cessful one at this time being that of the Eureka Consolidated Company. The mineral croppiugs of 
this region are strewn over a considerable space, with but little regularity of form. The lead- 
bearing ores predoijiinate, while on the western slopes of the rolling mountains that face toward 
the southern end of Diamond Valley, milling ores are found, of both sulphide and chloride of silver, 
in limestone, however, and having no remarkable appearance of permanence. The ore that pro- 
duces the best results from the smelting has a brownish, decomposed look, carrying much carbona- 
ceous matter, and oftentimes not lead enough to facilitate the smelting process. The ore-beds 
defined seem to have a dip to the northeast of about 30", following wavy beds quite similar to 
what has been noticed in disturbed coal basins. The principal mines worked are those of the 
Eureka Consolidated Company, embracing one entire hill, joined at the southeast by properties of 
the Phd-nix and Jackson Companies, the latter idle. Outside from these the Bull Whacker, Otto, 
Empire, and Lexington mines were visited, and samples of milling ores were taken from the Star of 
the West and General Lee. Various freight lines deliver stores for 1 cent per pound from railroad. 
The area covered by mines is most irregular in shape, but will approximate to eleven square miles. 
A volcanic granite quarry to the east of the town furnishes a fine quality of building material. 
Wood for charcoal is abundant among the hills, bordering a radius of eight to ten miles. No 
records on hand at present give the annual production of bullion. The amount from the Ely Con- 
solidated, running five furnaces, has often reached, if not exceeded, $175,000 per month. The 
present price for freight on bullion is $10 per ton, to the railroad. Several freight lines compete. 
The town of Eureka is a very lively and smoky one ; several hotels, one church, oue bank, and 
one school-house are found here. The Richmond furnace is the only one that has a refinery 
attached. 

SIERRA OR SECREX CANON BISTRICT, NEVADA. 

(Notes from a topographical party.) 
Situated south and east from Eureka, about twelve miles distant. Rich cropping found and sev- 
eral mines worked with great success. From the Geddis mines, Nos. 3 and 1, ore taken from a 
shaft over 70 feet in depth has milled an average of $225 — rich bodies bringing out results very 
much superior to this. The Calico mine has a shaft of 75 feet, showing average milling ore of $100. 
Shafts have also been sunk to good depths on the Bertram, and Geddis Nos. 1 and 2, Secret Valley, 
Stockton, and some others. The district, though small and comparatively new, has an air of 
good promise. 

The cost of the various items pertaining to mining industry varies but little if any from that at 
Eureka, near at hand. 

(Notes from a topographical party.) 

This little mining camp is situated at the entrance to a wide caQon on the eastern slope of the 
Diamond Range, among the foot-hills of which the mines are located, lying in a southeasterly direc- 



H8 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

tion , and not far from Eureka. Specimens obtained were from the Maryland mine ; others forwarded 
from t'ais district have not been received for examination, but are taken from the Mountain Chief, 
Michigan, Uncle Sam, Duqnette, Cole & Johnson, and Our Own, No. 2, mines. The ores are chlo- 
rides and sulphurets of silver, with galeua interspersed; a part can be smelted; it is maintained 
that others can be worked by the wet or free process; course of veins northeast and southwest. 

Water is scarce, and at a distance from the mines. Wood for fuel purposes plenty. The 
several expenses of mining industry vary but slightly from tliose obtained in Eureka. 

MOEEY DISTEICT, NEVADA. 

The mines of this district are north of Hot Creek, the camp itself lying to the south of Eureka, 
a distance of seventy-five miles, and south and west from Hamilton, at a distance of sixty-one miles. 
The ledges are arranged in a parallel system of thin fissures, found in the foot hills, whose trend is 
south 55° west magnetic, and which form a jiortion of the eastern slope of the Hot Creek IJange. 
The mines are found on either side of these hills, nearly uniform in direction, converging slightly to 
the main peak of the contiguous ridge ; these foothills break oft" to the northeast from the main 
range. General trend of the mountains north and south. The country rock is somewhat disturbed, 
and much debris from the peaks to the southwest covers the surface. Bearing of lodes south 5o° 
west ; country rock is an ancient volcanic rock, probably propylite, with later introduced volcanic 
dikes. The veins have an average dip of 00°. No vein has been found to exhaust either in hori- 
zontal or vertical working. Some veins are perpendicular. Plenty of nut-pine and cedar for fuel 
and timbering in adjoining hills ; fine building-stone in canon one and a half miles to the south; 
three springs of fine water in the district. The ores are all high grades, associated with man- 
ganese, and require roasting. The Stedefeldt process has been found to give a high percentage at 
Austin. Average cost of mining per ton, $25; price of mining and millhig labor, $4. As yet 
there is no mill, although the developments justly merit one. 

Principal mines worked : Magnolia, Bay State, Cedar, and American Eagle. Total amount of 
bullion for nine months ending June 30, 1871, $27,500, giving an average of $315 per ton. 
Freight to Austin, 3^ cents ; to Eureka this might be reduced to 2 cents. The cost of a 10-stamp 
mill and Stedefeldt furnace is estimated at $45,000 ; this is a low estimate. The ore from these 
mines has been transported to Austin at a great expense and there worked; meanwhile the district 
has been self-supporting to the Morey Company, they being the only ones who have done much 
work. In their case, however, it has been conducted on a very small scale. The total number 
of feet owned by them is 20,400; this embraces the greater share of the district, whicli is quite 
small. The matrix material of the veins is soft. The introduction of Chinese labor succeeded 
satisfactorily at this point while it was tried by Mr. D. S. Ogden, the superiutendent, aud was only 
discontinued at the time it was concluded to lessen operations. 

This labor ought to be introduced to a certain limited extent among the mines of the interior, 
where cheap labor is so much needed. By arranging them in small gangs, placing over each an 
intelligent and vigilant foreman, the work can be equally as well done. They also succeed well as 
assorters of ore. The veins are from 3i to 5 feet thick, showing a pay-streak from C to 22 inches, 
aud giving assays from $75 to $525. Work was being pushed ahead on the Cedar and Magnolia at 
the date of our visit, and from the latter the most flattering results obtained at the end of the tunnel, 
155 feet. Ore from a pay-streak from IS inches to 2J feet was continuously averaging from $150 
to $200 per ton, and often reaching as high as $600. 

The Bay State, Mount Airy, American Eagle, and Black Hawk are all good mines. The average 
milling results, after little assorting, average from $.395 to $552 p(>r ton. (Juite thorough examina- 



EXPLORATION^ IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 39 

tious were made here, and the impressions produced were exceedingly favorable; indeed, there are 
few localities yet encountered where there is a more favorable opportunity for the judicious expen 
ditnre of capital. 



No examinations made here since 18G9, subsequent to M'hich visit there was a great lull in 
mining matters ; latterly, however, the prospects have greatly revived ; mines have been found 
to descend where alone pockets were expected ; capital has been introduced on a large and liberal 
scale. I am informed that the charter has been granted and the incorporation perfected for a 
narrow-gauge railroad from Elko to Hamilton, and that work is soon to be commencetl. A wire 
tramway for transporting the ore from the mine to the mill at a trifling expense is in operation, and 
at last accounts was working successfully. Tiiis is the first instance in which this method of 
transporting the ores has been tried; various experiments are going ou with a view to perfect this 
sort of a tramway, and the results cannot fail to be a step in the right direction. 

SPRING VALLEY DISTRICT, NEVADA, 

This district is situated immediately north of the stage-road from Austin to Eureka and 
about twelve miles from the latter iilace. The ores are chlorides and sulphides of silver in 
metamorphic limestone, showing croppings of a limited size. But little labor has been applied, and 
beyond generalizations of the widest nature, but little can be said. Most of the miners were absent 
and the time for observation short. The mines lay in the southeastern foot-hills, covered with nut 
pine. Water is scai'ce. The country roads are good. 

ANTELOPE DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

Situated about fourteen miles in a southwest direction from Mineral Hill. Uase metal ore in 
a highly metamorphic limestone formation. No developments showing expectations even of a 
permanent vein. The croppings are distributed over a considerable area, among low, rolling hills, 
on the western slope of a range that passes nearly due south from Mineral Hill. Water scarce; 
wood plenty. A few miners at work. 

HOT CREEK AND EMPIRE DISTRICTS. 

Situated in the Hot Creek Range, and successively to the south and adjoining IMorey. These 
localities were visited by topographical parties, but no notes arc available except the average milling 
assays of the ores from the Hot Creek district at the Old Dominion mill, when this was in operation. 
These were very favorable, in no month falling below $200 per ton, and reaching as high as $325 per 
ton. The mines are on the eastern slope of the range, and crop from a volcanic formation. A 
transcript from the mill returns of the Old Dominion mill shows the avei'age working value per ton 
to range from $80 to •$J172. 

RATTLESNAKE CANON DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

South of Eaipire, adjoining it, and now believed to be a part of it; is being worked by a New 
York company, whose principal endeavors have attached to the Philadelphia mine; showing roast- 
ing ores, stedefeldtite predominating. The ore deposits are in volcanic rock. The water level had 
been reached, and arrangements were soon to be made for pumping, when it was intended to push 
the work on with vigor. The walls, at a depth of 55 feet, were clean and well defined. Water 
sufficient for nauiug purposes. Wood scai'ce. No mill in the cafion. A 2-stamp mill in sight in the 
vallev below. 



40 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 



The little mining camp of this name is situated iu a canon that runs toward the Hot Creek 
Valley, and from the mountains between the Rattlesnake Cation and the old Milk Spring district. 
This district shows two very dissimilar series of ores. The first, prominent along a very long line 
of east and west croppiugs, is of a yellowish-brown ore, heavily charged with lead, assaying about 
$G0 per ton in silver, and, like the Eureka ores, can doubtless be easily smelted. The ores from 
the west, and in the direction of the Empire Caiion, .show .sulphide and chloride of silver in lime- 
stone, and also among volcanic rocks. The fir.st series belong to a line of fissure; the others have 
no particular direction, and doubtless are pockets for the greater part. The veins of the carbona- 
ceous ores are wide. Several miners were vigorously at work ; wood and water sufficient for 
mining purposes. The most direct access to this locality is via Eureka, and thence down Hot Creek 
Valley. The distance from Hot Creek Station is fourteen miles. But few developments had been 
made. The principal work has been done on the 2 G, Casket, and Western Extension mines. The 
district is, however, in my mind, cue of great promise, if developments prove that it can be 
worked on a large and comprehensive scale. The direction of the veins trends toward the summit 
of the range. The nearest milling center at present is Belmont. Plenty of wood for fuel purposes. 
Roads are not yet well opened. 

BATTLE MOTNTAl^- DISTRICT, :>JEVADA.» 

The district includes fonr princip.il locatious, kuowu as Battle Moimtain, Trenton, Galena, and Copper Canon, 
all on the eastern slope of the Battle Mountain Range. The first mentioned, ivhich is the oldest, I did not risit. 
Galena, five miles farther soutli, is now the principal center of activity ; it is situated fourteen miles south from Battle 
Mountain Station, -svitli which it is connected by a good road. The country rocks are metamorphic sedimentary, 
(quartzite, mica-slate, clay-slate, limestone, &c.,) dipping to the wesl at .all angles, from 20- to 75-. The veins are well 
defined, and for the most part are more nearly vertical than the adjacent beds, but trend vrith them north and soutli. 

The chief ore is argentiferous galena, and some mines have passed below the water-level ; others are still dry and 
yield a large proportion of oxidized ores. Price of labor, §3.i50 jjcr diem. No mill was in operation at the time of my visit , 
but that of the Nevada Butte Silver Mining Company approached completion. The best ore ($150 to S300 per ton) is 
shipped to .San Francisco. 

The principal mines worked are the Avalanche, Buena Vista, Butte, Trinity, and White, and they are comprised 
in an area about one and one-half miles square. Population, 200. 

The mines of Copper Cailon (the Virgin and Lake Superior) lie three miles farther south, aud are worked en- 
tirely for copper. The surface ores are carbonate of copper and red oxide, aud the deep-seated copper gl.ince. The w.ater- 
level has not been reached. The ore is sold iu Liverpool. 

Galena and Copper Canon have a scant supply of water, ami have no timber in the immediate vicinity, though it 
is found on the range, 

YANKEE BLADE DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Situated immediately north of the Ree,se Kiver district. It is reported at Austin that work has been entirely 
suspcniled in this district, 

REESE RIVIiR DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

There arc no new developments at Austin, but, by economic and .skillful nianageuient, the place is recovering 
from the stagnation thai followed the White Pine excitement. The mih of the Manhattan Company, which now does 
a large custom business in addition to the reduction of the ores mined by the company, is to be enlarged, and another 
mill is building to reduce, by competition, the prices of milling, and foster still further the development of mines 
held by imrties with small capital. Great advantage is derived iu the largo miues from the use of a contract system, 
which pays the miners iu whole or part by a perceutage of the ore extracted. 

• From notes furnished by Mr, G. K. Gilbert. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 41 

KINGSTON DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Sitiiatccl oil tlio eastern tlauk of the Toyalje Range, twenty miles south of Aral in. The silver mines of the district 
are entirely tlescrtcil, and Ibo iii.ichincry of its mill is being removed. 

NORTH TWIN RIVER DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Situated ou the eastern flank of the Toyabe Range, facing Smoky Valley, and thirty-five miles south of Austin. 
The groat speculations that have been based on this district are without fulfillment. In Summit Canon, two men are 
said to be at work, and at the entrance of Park Canon, where stands an unfinished silver-reducing mill, the proprietor 
still faithfully maintains his residence. 

TWIN RIVER DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Situated immediately south of North Twin River district, and including Twin River, Last Chance, Ophir, and Wis- 
consin Cafions. In Ophir Canon the extensive works of the Twin River Silver Mining Company stand idle, the celc- 
brjited Mni-phy mine is full of water, and the town, once containing several hundred, has now but five or six inhabitants, 
two of whom are engaged in mining. The other canons are ipiito deserted. 

JEFFERSON DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

This district of silver mines is situated on the west side of the Toquiraa Mountains, being separated by that range 
from the Silver Bend District, (Belmont.) and by the Smoky Valley from the Twin River district, (Ophir Canon.) It 
is entirely deserted. 

MANHATTAN DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

This district, now .ib.andoned, was located ou the west side of the Tor|uima Mountains, immediately south of the 
JeftVrson district. 

MOUNTAIN CHIEF DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

This district, visited by a topographical party, lies on the eastern .slope of the Toqnima Range, 
and nearly duo north from our camp at Meadow Creek Oaiion. Principal mines: Monntain Chief, 
Mount Ruby, and Blue Point ; no notes available. 

/ SILVER BEND DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

Belmont stands on a system of plicated black shales of silmian age, with some associated limestone and qnartzite, 
all dipping east and northeast at high angles, and resting against a mass of granite that lies west and south of them. 
The argcntiferons veins arc near the grauite, and dip and trend with the .strata.* 

Quite a minute survey and examination were made in this locality by members of the fortieth 
parallel geological survey, and there is little left to be done beyond chronicling changes in the 
material developments of the mines that have since taken place. Nothing has been done with the 
mining or mill property of the combination company. Mr. Canfield bad in constant operation a 
10-stamp mill, with furnace and cru.shers, working upon ores from the Ai'izona and Transylvania 
mines, and iiajing a good profit. 

The owners of the El Dorado south were busily engaged in a legitimate development of their mine 
down to the water-level, which shows at this point a most beautiful fissure-vein. 

The old Belmont mill, situated in the town of Belmont, was receiving a thorough overhauling, 
preparatory to receiving new furnaces and machinery. The ore supply was expected to come from 
explorations that had commenced on the Transylvania uortb, and upon the old Belmont lead. 

The Monitor, in the bight of the hill near the summit, and lying nearly iu a line between the 
Arizona and El Dorado south shafts, was taking out fine, high-grade ore. Other parties, here and 
there, were prospecting theii' leads in a small way. 

* From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 



42 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 

To the uortb ami west of the towu, and in the continuation of the mineral-bearing trend, 
some mines were visited. At one of them a little work is progressing. They doubtless belong to 
the same system of mineral deposition. 

Mining and milling labor commands $3.50 per day. There are sixty stamps set up in this 
district, only ten of which were working. 

Two freight-lines connect with Austin. Number of inhabitants, 400. 
There is said to have been taken out, in bullion, from the High Bridge, $170,000; El Dorado, 
$200,000, and Transylvania, $250,000. During the last year the bullion from the Arizona has in- 
creased the above amount, so that probably the district in total has produced not far from $750,000. 
The veins here are undoubtedly permanent. The range of the properties is limited. Developments 
become exceedingly expensive after reaching the water-level. 

By the judicious combination of interests and application of capital, this could be made one of 
the most flourishing districts in the interior of Nevada. The original name of this district was 
Silver Bend, then it was temporarily called Philadelphia ; at present the record-books show " Silver 
Bend " to be the appropriate name. 

KEVEILLE DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Reveille district, orgauized iu 1856, is on the Reveille Range, two hundred and twenty miles sontli, by road, from 
Elko, on the Central Pacific railroad. The mountains are here composed of heavy beds of lime and quartzite, uplifted 
,ind shattered by massive eruptions of rhyolitic lava. Silver ore has been found at numerous points in the surface of the 
limestone, with a calc.areo-siliceous gangne. but no traceable vein has been demonstrated, except along the uneven 
margin of the rhyolite, where it is adjacent to the limestone. The base metals are iron, copper, lead, and antimony. No 
deep mining has been done, but a notable amount of superficial work. A mill for the district was buUt twelve miles 
west, at the foot of the Hot Creek Range, but it is not now used, and the district is quiescent. The supplies of water 
and timber are scant. 

This was formerly known as the Worthington district, and it is situated northwest from Silver 
(^anon, about seventeen miles distant. The ores are represented as rich smelting ores. The notes 
taken by C. A. Ogden are not now available. It is understood that the main mountains are of 
limestone, highly fossiliferous, covered on their eastern flanks by eruptive beds of rhyolite. 

The deposits occur on the eastern base, cutting across the ravines that are parallel with the 
northeast spurs. Water in two places for mills ; timber sufificient for fuel and building purposes. 
The area covered by croppings is about 2J square miles. 

ELY DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

The range, or group of hills occupied by the district stands as an island on the eastern foot-slopes of the Ely 
Mountain Range, and is quite as peculiar iu structure as In position, since its axis of elevation and the accompanying 
fractures trend north 00° west, and the system of argentiferous veins east and west, nearly at right angles to the gcner.al 
trend of the Cordilleras. The rocks are slightly altered limestone and argillaceous shale, with vitreous sandstone or 
qnartzi te. At Pioche the latter stretclies as a longitudinal belt, a half mile in width, with an easy dip to the northeast, 
and is sejiarated by faults from bodies of limestone and sh.ale on either side, tluough which it seems to have been 
uplifted. The metalliferous veins are confined to this belt. In the shale a few fossUs were found, one of which I thought 
to be a Carboniferous form, ( riiUUjpsia,) but, as the specimens were afterward destroyed, it has been impossible to 
conlirni this identification.' 

This district, flrst discovered in 1804, was relocated, and developments commenced in 18GS. A 
visit was made here in the fall of 1SG8, since which time astonishing developments have been made, 
and Pioche ranks second to no mineral section in Nevada, except Washoe. Fifty-five stamps were 
busily employed, the ore being worked by what is known as the wet process, giving a foir percentage; 

■ Fiom notes furnished bv Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 43 

the-, tailings are collected, however, and will be reworked at some later period. Oalv tbe bi-her 
grade ores are earned to the mill at the present stage of the naming industry. Water beino.;" 

oa.twa.id, otheis at Ball.onville, eleven miles to the south. The present cost of transportation of 
o es rom he n„ne to the mill is somewhat of a burden. The walLrock is auartzite, b^rb oke 
nd disturbed in many places ; the ores found are chloride and sulphuret of silver specim n « 
h n and ruby silver, stedefeldtite, argentiferous galena, small amounts of manganate f s Iv r ! lie 
ad carbonate of lead, and pyrites of iron. The lower levels have a tendeLy towa ^lu ^hu^ 
o es and i is not unlikely that, at no distant date, in order to secure a sufficiently high per6 ^ " 
roasting will have to be introduced. percentage, 

o"?t oT d . : , ■" 1 " "■ '™''-'' "' '''''''^' '"" "" ^^''^^ '^'''^'''' "-- ^>-"^- "-ting 
ou^ht to lead to a wide and more substantial vein to the westward 

Astonishing results have been obtained from the (Lightener) shaft, sunk on the Raymond and 

:" goo!u;:mi!r ■ '' '''''' '^^ ^""^' -^-^^^^ '^^^■^^"^^■°^"^^^' -- -^ -^^^^^ - -I-ted a' 

This district was the scene of considerable terror and bloodshed for quite a season caused bv 

plrlt r^r T ""'^""'^ "^^^"^ *"" ^^'^^^^"^ " ^"'"'^^"^ " «f ^^^^-- Much of hH;^ mn 

ecords. titles, &c., are often placed, incident upon the irregular method of the prospeetin. locating 
and placing in market of mines in interior and remote sections ^' 

U>J^^tTZ:',!T' '' '"'"' ''''' "" " ^'^^^'^"^' ^"^^"'^' ^"^ -"-^"lated a mining 
anlleft the ! ) .f' '"''"'"'' '" ""'''■ ^' '^■^' '"^ ^"S"'^^' ^^^^^^^^^^^ nearly evervthin^ 

and left the surface of the country more desolate than before the mines were worked • since tlu 

rw t::::;rr\^rr^^ '^ ^" -^^^^^^ --^« -^- ^»"^on is producerhrs^::; 

a new town of as respectable proportions as the former 

this LT' '"'' ''"''"'^' '"^"^' '^°' '^^"^^"'^'^^ ^'^ "'^^'"■^' ^^«t---^' - -«^^' -re destroyed in 

HIGHLAND DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

This lies to the west of Pioche, Nevada, and is understood to be in a limestone formation 

t'kl bva? ;■ '''''^'''''^^' tJ^^t a 30-stamp mill is about to be erected. " The" notes 

taken by a topographical party are not at hand. 

BLIND MOUNTAIN DISTBICT, NEVADA 

North and west from the Highland, carrying base-metal ores ; little prospected, and verv little 
work being done. Mining laws very good ; plenty of wood, but water scanty No es f om a 
graphical party not at hand. ^^otes iiom a topo- 

CEDAE DISTRICT, NEVADA. I 

and ^'f ,''f "? f ''''"'''' '" ''''' '''''' '''' «^ *^^ -^«*^- «'^« Of I^^miett Spring Mountains ' 

and n any due east from Pahranagat Lake. Most of the assays, so far as con d be fou To ' 
showed only a low-grade silver ore. The locality was not visited f^-om want of t^e. ' 

PAHRANAGAT LAKE DISTRICT, NEVADA. 
Great Qnartz Uo.nt.i. U a .ass of upimd ana .o.new.at aUercl strata, .vitb a genera, .i, t,. t.e w. 



vest. Tb.j 



44: EXPLOIIATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA.' 

quartzite, 500 to (iOO feet thick, that caps the riflge, are of slight iiicliuatioii, exposiug their edges ou both siiles of the 
mountain, and they contain an interstratilied bed of black limestone. Below them is an almost uninterrupted exposure 
of limestone, to the eastern base of the mountain, and iu these are the mines. They are so much disturbed and faulted 
that the thickness of the mass cannot be definitely ascertained, but it can hardly be less tlian 2,000 feet. The limestones 
are profusely fossiliferous, and belong to the Hudson River and Trenton groups of the Silurian system.* 

The district of raliranagat Lake, once the scene of great activity and excitement, is now com- 
paratively deserted, except by a few persons known as " chloriders," who here and there coyote 
little pockets of rich ore, and take it to the Crescent mill, where it can be worked by the wet process. 

The miU of the Hyko Silver Mining Company, who at one time spent their money here in so 
princely a manner, although well appurteuanced in every particular, now stands idle; though why, 
it is ditlicult to say. From a careful examination of this district, the i^resence of a great deal of 
surface mineral has been definitely determined ; it has also been found out that former labors have 
been directed independent of sense or judgment. 

The metamorphic limestone is greatly disturbed, and the tracing of the veins through it is very 
diflicult. In the northern part of the district, spread over a considerable area, and cropping from 
the quartzite, other portions of this apparently large mineral deposit are found. It seems patent 
that success alone is to come from this portion of the extensive property, and it is my belief that 
no permanent and remunerative vein will be opened in the district until the croppings in the 
quartzite are tried. Verifying this opinion, formed while in the district, a shaft has been sunk iu 
this locality, and good results obtained, although it had not reached over seventy feet at the date 
of the informatiou. 

It is rumored that the New York Company are soon to resume operations, and Pahrauagat may 
yet add its history to that of the mining centers of the West. A bed of volcanic tufa at Logan 
Spring can furnish very superior building-stone. 

TIM-rAn-UTE DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

This district lies nearly due west from Silver Carton, occupying the southwestern end of a detached 
range, similar to the Worthiugton Eange. The eastern limit of the mineral-bearing zone is highly 
metamorphosed slate, with north and south stratification, parallel to which, and protruding through 
limestone, the country rock is a parallel quartzite dike, extending laterally for miles. Most of the 
leads are found between the quartzite and the slate, although stringers and seams of the ore are iu 
the quartzite. It was supposed at one time that there was an immense vein of ore through the 
district, and that the luca lode was this mother vein. Very few developments had been made to 
determine this, however, and nothing certain has been shown beyond a few narrow and rich leads. 
Several miners are laboring with a laudable vivacity, and it is hoped that their endeavors will be 
happily rewarded. Most of the miners are poor, and capital is sadly needed among the many for- 
■bidding localities in which mines are found. The ores average high grade, and considerable bullion 
has already been produced at the Crescent Mill and at Hyko. 



The rocks are sedimentary, and comprise a series of thin-bedded, vitreous, red sandstone, overlaid by a mass of soft 
.argillaceous and chloritic shales, succeeded iu turn by massive gray and black limestones. These all trend north and 
south with the general course of the rango, and dip to the east at an average angle of 30'^. The several strata are to bo 
seen, in the order named, by crossing the range from west to cast, the sandstones and limestones, in virtue of their 
superior hardness, standing iu bold ridges on either side of the eroded shale. By a succession of vertical faults carrying 
down the more easterly beds, the minor features are several times repeated, and the superficial width of the several 
members increased. 

* From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 



EXPLOKATIOX IIST NEVADA AND AKIZONxV. 45 

PMallol with this systom of faults, and witbiu the shales, are the metalliforoiis deposits. Iiiterstratilieil with the 
same shales are a few feet of limestone containing fossils of the Potsdam epoch. This is, I believe, the lirst recorded 
occurrence iu the great basin of argentiferous veins in primordial rocks.* 

This is an argentiferous galena district, and is situated south and west from Timpah uto Peak. 
The mines occur in a system of parallel veins or deposits, from 75 to 200 feet wide, and show large 
amounts of ore. The galena is bright and lu.strous, and carries in its composition little or no fluxing 
agent. 

The surrounding hills are covered with nut-pine and cedar. The ores are of low grade, but the 
resulting lead should be of economic value. These ores will have to pass through a scorifying 
l)rocess before they can be introduced into a blast-furnace, and need, in connection, some fluxing 
agent. Whether nature has furnished that in the near vicinity has not yet been determined. 
Should this be found, and thorough proof adduced that the problem of smelting these ores can be 
solved on the ground, there seems to be no reason why, if this district were operated on a large 
scale, it should not bo equally as profitable as the mines of Cerro Gordo. Cost of mining, $2 per 
ton. Mining labor, $i per day. About $7,000 have "been expended on the mines, developing con- 
tinuance to 50 feet iu depth. 

SOUTHEASTERN DISTRICT, NEVADA, t 

Work, on a small scale, has been carried on at intervals iu this district since its discovery, iu the spring of 1>*70. 
The ucarest water is to the northwest about twelve miles. The situation of the mines is to the southeast from Tim-pah- 
nte Peak, in a canon on the western slope of the northern end of the Vegas Range. Veins have appearance of perma- 
nency; ores of low grade. Ores are base, the principally associated metal being copper. Plenty of wood for mining 
purposes. 

"WAUCOVA DISTRICT, CALIPORNIA. 

This district is nearly due east from Camp Indepeudeuce about twenty-two miles, and on the 
eastern slope of the Inyo Range. 

The mines were not examined by any members of the party; however, from the specimens and 
description, I am led to believe that they resemble, to a certain extent, those at Cerro Gordo that 
have been made so profitable. They are of argentiferous galena principally, some indifferent silver 
rock being exposed iu places. But little work has been done so far. Wood and water are plenty. 
These mines may probably be made remunerative if worked on an extensive scale. 

SAN ANTONIO DISTRICT, NEVADA. | 

We left San Antonio on the following morning, (July 5,) and traveled iu a southeasterly direction for about nine 
miles. The soil at first was sandy, with "sage bushes" growing iu abundance. When we h.ad gone about six miles 
the soil became more barren and the vegetation scant. Here we came across volcanic ashes, with large cxuautities of 
fragments of agate, silicified wood, and lava. Iu the sjiring of 1864 J. P. Cortez & Co. opened the first mine, soon after 
■which the district was formed. This mine was the La Libortad, which was soon followed by the Potomac, the Merri- 
mac, and the Lea ; and the whole number of claims in the district nnmbored about two hundred and fifty. San Lorenzo, 
or the old Potomac Camp, is a small, deserted village among a series of hills in a small valley, altitude 6,600 feet, 
(aneroid barometer 57.) We went southward in this small valley, in a gradual ascent, for about three-fourths of a 
mile, then descended again for the same distance to the Potomac. The general stratification of all the rocks runs 
northwest and southeast. 

The tunnel is iu the side of the hill, penetrating the stratifications at nearly a right angle cast 40"-" north, to a 
depth of 300 feet through quartz. 

The ores are cupreous sulphurets, also malachite and films of azurite. About fifty tons of ore have been taken 
out, averaging, without assorting, $100 per ton. Tliis tunnel was iutenued to touch or iieuetrate the Jupiter lode; 
altitude at mouth of tunnel, 6,622 feet. Southeast of this, about 200 yards, is the Merrimac, not worth mentioning. 

* From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 
tFrom notes furnished by Mr. F. R. Simontou. 
I From notes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hofl^man. 



46 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Wo now procecilcd to the La Liboitad, which is the most southeni mine of the distiii.t. The ciitiauce to the 
miue is an iiicliuo at an angle of 43 ', altitude 5,710 feet, to a depth of 500 feet. At 400 feet we cam e to moist earth, and 
at a depth of 4G0 or 475 feet to water, which tills the bottom of the mine. Here we came to a drift rnnuing northwest to 
a distance of 50 feet. The quantity of ore taken out is about 300 tons. Cost of mining, $25 per ton ; cost of shipping, 
§25 per ton ; cost of working, 625 per ton. The amount derived since opening, about $100,000, which is not quite equal 
to the sum expended. 

MONTEZUMA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

(Camp in Big Smoky Valley, July 7, 1871. J 

Wo left camp soon after snnvisi: for Montezuma, which was but eight miles southwest, on the northern slope of 
Mount Nagle, in a small ravine. In the valley we were just leaving was a salt-marsh, which is separated from the Sil- 
ver Pe.ak salt-nuirsh by a low divide of volcanic rocks, a continuation of Lone Mountain, with these mountains sur- 
rounding Montezuma. This district was discovered May 18, 1887, and was organized on May 24, 18G7. The district has 
been worked constantly since that time. The recorder is Matthew Plunket. The nearest post-ofBee is Silver Peak. 
The general course of the mining and other ledges is east 35- north and west 35^ south. Incline of strata, 48^. The 
High Bridge mine follows down between two strata of metamoriihic limestone, in which was emholite, (chloro-bromide 
of silver,) to a depth of 85 feet. Valne, from l|6S to .$200 per ton. Altitude of opening, 0,050 feet. South of the town of 
Montezuma (which consists of six houses, two taverns, and a store, besides one dwelling-house, aud a mill) lie the 
mines on the hill-side. The Savage mine, the most important in the place, has a tunnel of 80 feet depth to a silver- 
bearing vein, whose dip is at an angle of 40-'. ■ 

• The altitude of mouth of tunnel is 7,010 feet, (aneroid barometer 57.) The ores are embolito, sulphurets, malachite, 
azurite, (scarce,) selenite, chafazite, and a few of the rare zeolites. The principal mines are the Crocket, Mountain 
Queen, Brewster, aud Osceola. The other mines of importance are the Hubbard, Norfolk, Southern, Light, Burchard, 
&c. Tlicrc are about fifty claims in the district, nine of which have been worked at difterent times. The timber is 
abundant all over the mountains, but water is taken from -wells. There is a lO-stanip mill erected at the camp, (dry 
stamp,) with a reverberatory furnace. This is also deserted at present. There are a few Indians living in the mountains. 
They appear to be at iieace with all, and are often hired to carry water, wood, aud do other work around the mines. 
Most miners get from 5i75 to $100 per month, with board. There has been expended in the development of the Crocket, 
|2,500 ; Mountain Queen, $8,000 ; Brewster, $3,000 ; and Osceola, $2,500. The ores are worked at Benton and Columbus. 

BLIND SPRING DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* 

This district was organized iu the autumn of 18S4. Distance from Reno one hundred and eighty-five miles, and 
AVadsworth one hundred and sixty-five miles. The mountain and ledges run north and south. There is one fissure- 
vein called the Comanche. This has not boon sufficiently developed to give entire proof as such. No wood found here, 
and water occurs only in the valleys, from four to six miles away. The ores are antimoniates of lead aud silver, and 
are extremely rich in silver. The yield for 1871 was $60,000. Cost of miuing is $10 per ton ; cost of milling and chlor- 
idizing, $15 per ton ; labor per diem, $4 ; labor per month, $(iO, with board. 

In the district near Benton is one 4-stami) mill, built at a cost of $4,000. It is run by water-power. This mill cau 
work one and a half tons per day, (of ore.) The principal mines are the Comanche, Rockingham, Diana, and Silver 
Sprout, also the Wilson Claim, and Cornucopia. Costs of developing the claims are as follows : Comanche, $15,000 ; 
Rockingham, $12,000; Diana, $40,000 ; Wilson Claim, $7,000; Cornucopia, $G0,000— not worked now; Silver Sprout 
$2,000; Koarsarge, $15,000. 

Late advices show a great change in the character of the ores in the Rockingham mine. At the time of visiting 
this place the water-level had not yet been reached, and the antimoniates of silver abounded exclusively. But upon 
reaching the water-level, at a depth of about 350 feet, the antimoniates were gradually replaced by the sulphurets, 
pyrites froiiuently occurring. 

Partzwick has .about ten buildings, of which one is a livery-stable, one store, and one liquor store and hotel; 
number of inhabitants about forty. They are erecting at the northern end of the village a 10-stamp mill, with a Stede- 
feldt furnace, with capacity of working 15 tons of ore per day. 

Bchton is situated about a half mile south of Partzwick, and has — houses, 12 ; inh.abitants, 55; blacksmith's shop, 1 ; 
hotel, 1 ; stores, 2; saloons, 2 ; livery-stable, 1 ; school-house, 1 ; Wells, Fargo & Co.'s office; post-office. Also 1 arraatra 
mill, (water-power). 

" From ]U)tes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hoflfraan. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 47 

ALIDA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

Alida Valley is from one to two miles broad, by about six miles in length. At the extiemc eastcru part is located 
the spring, from ^vhich issues a fine stream of water. At the summit we just crossed we found a largo vein of mala- 
chite and black oxide of copper crojipiugs. The ravines on both sides of the mountain are covered with cedars and 
pines in abundance, and on the northern side of the mountain we saw two springs of good water. Alida Valley is 
covered with good grass, and the watercourse is fringed with a dense undergrowth of willows. Here a man named 
Scott was working a claim which ho had discovered. The ore was stromeyerito, with malachite, cuprite, and a little 
hematite. 

GOLD MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

We followed a trail up a wash, which took us just to the east of Mount Magruder, then down a geutlo slojio, and 
across a barren desert. Finally, after crossiug two ranges of mountains, we came to another sand desert. Vp the 
opposite side of this wo came to Camp Gold Mountain, which is situated on the northern slope of Gold Mountain. 
The well at Gold Mountain Camp furnishes just sufficicut water for the three men and foiu- animals that are kept there. 
The district was formed in 1865. The nearest jilace for mail and fre)ght-shipi>iug is at Silver Peat. The nearest rail- 
road station is Battle Mountain. Wood is abundant, and water can ouly be obtained on the northern slope of the 
moimtain by sinking wells. On the southern slope, in a ravine, is East Spring, of alkaline water. The chief ore is 
gold, and for the purjiose of reducing this an arrastra has been erected, and gold is obtained by means of amalgama- 
tion. Cost of mining the oro is about ■'JilO per ton. Barley is worth 10 cents per pound, and hay is worth .$50 per ton. 
There is sufficient grass on the mountain-slopes to furnish all pasture necessary for the animals. The amount realized 
for one month's work is $400, .and two hundred pounds of rock is generally worked per day. The chief mines are the 
Evening Star, State Line, Nova Zcmbla, Kohinoor, Golden Eagle, Bamboo, Boomerang, Little Bell, Iluburmac, and Bor- 
neo. The total number of locations is about forty. The amount expended since 1865 is about §7,000. There are but 
two men working at present, but at one time there were twenty employed. A 10-stanip mill would cost in this place 
If 10,000 or $15,000. Many of the mines are situated on the slopes of the smaller mountains, which generally run east 
and west. Much gold is taken out of the summit of one mountain of syenite. The gold occurs in qnartz, Jasper, 
and malachite ; specimens of the latter are unique. Argentiferous seleuite, of excellent quality, occurs in abundance 
four miles south of camp. The State Liuo ledge, lying five miles to the northwest, is 3,000 feet in length, and ;2P feet 
thick, yielding $30 per ton. The ledge runs northwest and southeast. 

PALMETTO DISTRICT, NEVADA.* 

This district was formed on April 0, 1860. Nearest place of communication is Silver Peak. The nearest railroad 
staion is Wadsworth. The ledges run north-northwest and south-southeast, and dip at an angle of 45° northeast. 
Abundance of timber, and several springs of water, and small streams two miles east. The number of tons of ore taken 
from the mines is about 500. Cost of mining ore is $12 per ton ; cost of milling and roasting, .f35 per ton ; cost of chlo- 
ridizing, §15 i)er ton ; labor per day, miuing, $4; labor per daj', milling, $4; cost of barley, per pound, 5 cents; cost 
of hay, per ton, ijSO. There is one 10-stamp mill here, which cost $90,000. 

The principal mines. — On the westeru'slope of the range are the New York, Champion, Kentucky, and Virginia, suji- 
posed to be the same vein. 

Those on the east are the Tennessee, Palmetto, Carolina, aud Louisiana. The amount expended in these mines 
is $75,000, aud bullion obtained about $200,000. A 10-stamp mill at present would cost about $36,000. The valley con- 
t.ains large quantities of grass, and is generally on limestone aud sandy soil. Farther to the west are largo quantities 
of porphyritic •granite, containing fine crystallizations of orthoclase. 

GREEN MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

This district lies to the south of Palmetto, aud is at iircsent deserted. It was organized in 1869. The cost of 
working is the same as in Palmetto. The gold which was worked chiefly amounted to about $2,000. The only silver 
ledge in the district, the Vcta Madre, runs northwest and southeast, and dips east. This lies between limestone and 
granite strata. The once famous Tule Canon belongs to Green Mountain district. A part of the old Cottonwood 
district belongs to the Palmetto. In the latter district .are about one hundred and twenty-five claims. There are not 
more than twelve or fifteen persons living here at present. 



From notes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hofl'man. 



48 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

COLUMBUS DISTEICT, NEVADA.* 

Tbe town of Colnmbns is situated on the sontliern slope of the mountains, facing the desert. Cohimbus district 
was formed and organized in December, 1864. The nearest railroad station is Wadsworth, which is one hundred and ' 
thirty-three miles distant. The district is twenty miles square. The general course of the mountains is east and west, 
with small spnrs running off in northerly and southerly directions. The mines are located all over the mountains. The 
metal-bearing veins run northwest and southeast, and are found in limestone, slate, and granite. Wood occurs in abun- 
danc3 eight miles from town. Water is scarce, as it is taken from wells. There are three mills at this place, two of 
which arc 5-stamps each, and one a 4-stamp mill. There is no Stedefeldt furnace attached to any of them. The ore 
is chiflly chloro-bromide, (embolite,) and the mills since starting, a year ago, have yielded about |30,000. Ores are 
worked by the dry process. The total number of tons worked is between 3,000 and 4,000. Cost of mining is $10 per 
ton ; cost of roasting and milling, |45 per ton ; cost of labor per day, at mines and mills, |4 ; cost of barley, 5i to G cents 
per pound ; cost of hay, $45 per ton. 

Tlie stage runs to and from Reno ; fare, $50. Freight is taken to and from Wadsworth, and costs from 4 cents 
to 5 cents per pound. The two 5-stan)p mills work each about six tons of ore per day, and the 4-stamp mill about five 
tons per day, making a total of seventeen tons per diem. 

The principal mines of the district are the Mount Diablo, Black, Metallic, Columbia, Northern Bell, Peru, Potosi, 
Bellmarte, P.appinaux, and Vulture. Development of Mount Diablo has cost $40,000, the rem.aiuing ones each |J15,000. 
There are five hundred or six liuudred locations in the district. Total number of inh.abitants about three hundred ; 
number of houses about forty-live, including stores ; stores, 4 ; livery stables, 2 ; saloons, (about,) 10. 

ONEATA DISTEICT, CALIFORNIA.* 

This district was formed in June, 1870. The town is ten miles from tbe district. Reno is one hundred and 
twenty-five miles from Benton and the nearest railroad station. The mines and district are located on the western 
slope in the northern spur of tbe White Mountain Range. The ore is, in appearance, a mere deposit, and the 100 tons 
that are now in sight yield, or are worth, according to assay, from $25,000 to $30,000. 

There is running w.ater and plenty of timber all through this part of the mountains. The ores accompany talcoso 
slate, granite, and nietamorphic limestone. The ores are all sent to Columbus for milling. Cost of working mines, |00 
per ton ; cost of milling, $60 per ton ; cost of mining and milling labor, each $4 per d.ay ; hay worth $40 to $45 per ton. 

TIio principal mines are the Wetherell and Indian Queen, and proceeds for one mouth's work (of ore) was 
$500. Freight to Reno is 7 cents per pound, and for ores §60 per ton. There is a 10-stamp mill and Stedefeldt furnace 
building now at Partzwick, costing $25,000. In these mines there are generally from twenty to thirty men employed. 

MONTGOMERY DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* 

The next district is the Montgomery, organized in 1863 by Henry B. Rich as recordci-. The mountains, as in the 
last district, run north and south, and the mines are located over uearlj' all p.arts. 

The true metalliferous veins run irreguharly north and south. There is iileuty of wood and water in the moun- 
tains. The rock overlying the silver-bearing rock is limestone, over which comes granite. The ore yields generally 
from $250 to $300 per ton. Cost of mining, per ton, $75 ; cost of milling, per ton, $50 ; cost of roasting, per ton, $15 ; 
cost of labor, per diem, |4. 

SILVER PEAK AND RED MOUNTAIN MINING DISTRICTS, NEVADA, t 

These mines are situated in Esmeralda County, Nevada. 

Jii'd Mountain distncl. — The mines in the district were discovered January 26, 1864. 

Silver Pealc district. — The mines in this district were discovered, and district organized February 1, 1865. The 
distance from railroad is one hundred and sixty miles by wagon-road. Nearest station on railroad is W.idsworth. 

Timber. — This is located on the summit and -west slopes of the Red Mountains, extending twelve or fifteen miles 
along the summit, and about ten miles fi'om the mill. The timber-belt is about eight or ten miles wide. Varieties; 
Pinon or nut-piue, cedar, mountain mahogany. The timber is small, but good for that country, and plenty of it. 

Water. — In Clayton Valley, near foot of eastern slope, is a cluster of large springs. They are all brackish, one or 
two boiling, nearly all warm, and a few cold. Water is abundant enough to run a 200stamp mill. Also springs on 
west slope. Red Mountain Spring, the principal one, issues from the foot of the peak of that name. This water is pure 

" From notes furnished by W. J. Hoffman. 

t From notes furnished liy Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. 



EXPLORATION IN NE\^ADA AND ARIZONA. 



49 



au.l good. Liu,e.toue spring flows at least 6,0U0 gallous i„ 12 hours. .Several springs ou the western slope- one 
small alkali spring on eastern slope, about six miles from those in valley; water quite cohl. 

Koclcs ami m;«.r„?.,._Liu,estonc, granite, mica, greenstone trap'; one very remarkable <like of the latter on east 
.slope, almost vertical, abont 8 feet or 10 feet thick, running from base to top, dividing the ridge into equal part.s. 
The greenstone is eroded considerably, leaving a steeply-indincd channel through the limestone and granite, basalt, 
obsidian, trachyte.s, lava, scoria, volcanic a.shes, salt, calcareous tufa, quartz, (all three varieties,) vitreous, chalcedonic. 
and jaspery formations, and pumice. Small crystals of smoky quartz were abundantly found in the felspathic lavas. In 
Clayton Valley are found trilobites, fossil fish, corals, and concretions. 

Ores.-Gold-free gold in quartz and sulphurets, and auriferous galena. These have been worked by free process 
and wet-crush.ng process-amalgamated on electro-plated copper. Average yield per ton, ^28. Silver-chlorides, 
sn^lphurets, argentiferous galena, and horn silver. These ores were worked awhile bv the wet process, but it was a 
failure, yielding about 40 per cent, of the assay value. The ores of the Lodi and Tiger mines were worked succes.sfully 
by the wet process, yielding 80 per cent, of assay value. 

iJ«»,>«.-The gross annual production of bullion from these mines, while the mill wms vuuni,,..- was between 
§900,000 and |1,000,000, averaging about «25,000 per mouth. 

Cosi of mM,ui, milling, #o.-Average cost per ton for mining, (gold and silver mixed,) .if5 per ton. (^^/..-rerhaps a 
little more for gold, and a little less for silver.) Average, cost for milling per ton, (no silver milled,) *;?.50 for gold. 
Average cost for roasting, (none roasted here, some silver sent away and roasted.) Average cost for mining labor, ^4 per 
diem. Indian labor, (used at mill,) 50 cents per diem. Cost of 10-stamp mill, (put up.^ gold, .^5,000 ; cost of lO-stamp 
mill, (put up,) .silver, ^20,000 to $25,000; cost of20-stamp mill, (put up,) gold, .$25,000; cost of 20-,stamp mill, (put up,) 
silver, 130,000; cost of SO-stamp mill, (put up,) gold, *30,000; cost of 30-stamp mill, (put up,) silver, $.50,000. 

Mines ,rorto7.-The principal work has been upon the Crowning Glory Mine. The company employed seventy-five 
men upon it for three years at $4 per diem. The amount expended in the mineral development of these mines is 
about ^280,000. Total amount of bullion extracted, about .$2,000,000. The ore is hauled about seven or eight miles over 
a good road to the mill. The ore is transported down from the mine for some distance in ore-carts, over a railroad; 
these cars descend under the action of the force of gravity almost, and are hauled up empty by mules. 

lnhahltant..~At present only four or five men remain here, all the hands having left, while the mill lies idle for 
repairs, and all work is suspended. There are in the place about twenty houses built of concrete, one store, and 
one l.very stable. Materials for making concrete are clo.se at hand, gravel being on the ground and limestone in 
a butte near by, and a lime-kiln near the mill. The company burn their own lime. There is one stage-line to Aurora, 
tare |2.-> to that point and .$50 to Reno on railroad. Freight, H cents per pound to AVadswortb. Mails weekly, I think. 

DEEP SFKING VALLEY DISTRICT, CALIFORA'IA.* 

This district was organized in 1862, and called White Mountain district, but has since been changed to the above 
■ Nearest .station on Central Pacific Railroad is Wadsworth, distance one hundred an,l eighty miles. 



name 



Principal Mincx, 

1. C;«rfm-//«.-This vein dips to west b'-. It is not worked now. Some miners sunk a shaft to some depth a few 
years ago, but were killed or driven away by tlu« ludians. Assay value per ton, $75. 

2. San /«««._There has been expended in opening this mine about .$2,000. It has produced so far $1,500 in bullim, 

3. Julm Dmn.-Oue thousand dollars hav^ been expended ou this mine. No bullion produced. Vein vertical 

4. San Fmnchco.-Five hundred dollars expended opening it. Three hundred and sixty dollars produced in luillio,,. 

5. TeHHa«t.-One thousand dollars expended on it. Produced $500 or $(!00 in bullion. 

6. Homestead.— i-ive hundred expended. Produced $600 in bullion. 

: Om.-AU silver. Some of the veins contain 33.V per cent, of gold, aud others more. The ores must be reduced by 
roasting. Average yield per ton, $100. The ledges and veins are situated in both the foot-hills and main rau^e of the 
White Mountains. They lie in Deep Spring Valley, in the ea.stern slope of those mountains, aud extend from the low 
foot-hills to the summit. There are two sy,stems of veins running nearly at right angles to each other. In the foot- 
hills the strike of the lodes is north and south. Near the summit it is nearly e.ast and west. Country roek is granite 
ill the foot-hills, and higher up it is talcose slate. 

*From notes furnished by Mr. F. Klett. 



50 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVAJ)A AXD ABIZOXA. 

Timber. — About three miles (north) iu the moniitaiiis there is i)lent5" of wood — cediir, and nnt-piiie. About twelve 
miles up on the range good pine is found. 

TValvr. — AVyoming Creek, having its source iu the mouutaius to the north and northwest, descending, runs southeast 
tor four or tive miles in Deep Spring Yalley, and sinks in the sand ; -nater, pure aiul excellent, sufficient for a small mill, 
at least. 

Milh. — One mill here, 5-stamp battery, run by water-power, 2 iiaus, 1 settler, and 1 furnace; cost about I$1U,0U(I. 
Can mill about 4 tons of ore per day. 

Coat of labor. — Average cost per ton for mining the ore. iS20; average cost per ton for milling and roasting, $50 ; 
mining labor per diem, &i : milling labor per diem, s:5. 

FISH SPRING DISTRICT, CALU'ORXIA.* 

This district lies in the foot-hills on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, about nineteen miles north of Camp 
Independence, California, in Owen's River Valley. The mines are small gold mines, mostly owned by one man, and 
worked by means of arrastras run by water-power. They yield a small but certain income. Water very abundant and 
excellent. My notes on this district are not at hand, which precludes any attempt at giving yields, Ac. 

KEARSARGE DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. 

This district is situated well up iu the foot-bills of the easteru slope of the Sierras, at a distance 
of eight miles from Camp ludependeuce, California. The miues are well opened at two levels, and 
show in each large qufintities of average milling ore, that yields a good percentage and return by 
the well-known Washoe pi'ocess. A tramway down a steep incline carries the ore from the mine to 
the mill, which is compactly constructed, of ten stamps, with all the modern improvements. The 
application of water as the power for driving the machinery is by far the prettiest specimen of the 
kind that I have ever seen. A m,ountaln creek is tapped loO feet above the mill, and the water 
brought in an open ditch to a plane inclined at an angle of about 40°, down which it passes with 
tremendous velocity until it is received by a 13i-inch turbine wheel, which it .sets in motion, and 
which takes the part of an expensive engine iu the ordinarj' mills. 

The ores are of chloride and sulphide of silver associated with oxide, sulphide, and carbonate 
of lead. Many specimens are covered with crystals of molybdate of lead, and are of a yellowish- 
brown color. All the mines that are worked in this district belong to the Kearsarge Mining Com- 
pany ; they are 13 in number, and are all supposed to belong to one large fis.sure vein. 

This is one of the many districts that would be tapped and suijplied by a railroad passing to 
the southward from either Truckee or Wadswoith, on the Central Pacific Eailroad, to the Colorado 
Kiver. 

SAN CARLOS DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. 

The mines are situated in the low hills nearly east from the little town of Independence, and 
were abandoned at the time of the burning of the mill by the Indians in 1804. It is understood that 
the mill is to be rebuilt and mining developments to be resumed. 

LONE PINE DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. 

The mines of this district are at the little camp known as Cerro Gordo, and are principally of 
argentiferous galena. They were discovered some six or seven years ago, and several unsuccessful 
attempts made to extricate the silver lead bars from the ore, but without success ; finally the process 
was discovered. The programme of working is now somewhat as follows: a scorifying furnace is 
charged with two-thirds lead ore and one-third silver ore of a poor quality, found on the eastern 
slope of the hills and heavily stained with carbonate of copper ; this and the proper amount of 
charcoal is kept in a state of fusion for eight hours, then drawn off and cooled ; after which it is 

* From notes furnished by Lieutenant D, A. Lyle. 



EXPLORATION IIST NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 51 

introduced into tbe ordinary blast furnace, with the requisite amounts of charcoal and salt. This 
system works admirably, and now enormous returns are secured from these very inaccessible mines. 
The ore averages from $50 to $05 per ton, in silver, the resulting bars from $260 to $300 per ton. 
The veins are wide, and the ore occurring in large lenticular-shaped masses trending to the south- 
ward ; so far as known the supply is inexhaustible. 

Notwitstanding the expensive freights, the mines are made very remunerative. The cost of 
transportation to Los Angeles, California, is $55 per ton ; thence to San Francisco $20 per ton ; 
theuce by Pacific ^fail Steamship Company to Newark, New Jersej-, at an additional expense of $25 
per ton. 

It was found to be more prolitable on account of the higher percentage of silver from the 
bullion, and the increased price obtained for the lead to ship to Newark, paying the extra expense, 
rather than to have the refining done in San Francisco. 

This is only one proof out a number tliat can be cited, showing tlie advantage of large estab- 
lishments where skilled labor can be concentrated, by means of which a still higher and higher 
percentage can be extracted from rebellious ores, which is a matter of so great necessity, especially 
in ores of low grade. There are three furnaces smelting ores from three mines, two at Cerro (^ordo 
and one at Swansea, on tlie northern shore of Owen's Lake. 

COfiO DI«TBICT, CALIFORNIA. 

Tliis district, situated south and east Irom Owen's Lake, in the Coso Eange, has been worked 
at fitful intervals in a rude and simple manner. The quartz is gold-bearing. One of the members 
of the expedition foinid about seventy-five persons employed here, mostly Mexicans, who make use 
of the arrastra process for the extraction of the bullion. The fact that Americans have not 
occupied this ground may argue in favor of the poveity of the veins, which, added to the presence 
of the surrounding desert on three sides, make the locality anything but an inviting one. 

GRAXITE MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* 

'J'he mines of this cUstiict wove discovered Liy Mr. Egau,ot' Swansea, and the district oroauized a year or so ago. 

Principal miiioi. — Tlic principal mines are sitnated ou the west side of Granite Mountain, a bigb abrupt peak 
in the Tortoise Range, and are at a great altitude. The principal mines are the Toronto, Santa Clara, and Alta. The 
bluffs in which they are situated are very steep and almost vertical, and to the south of Santa Clara is a trapdike, 
nearly vertical, cutting the strat.a. Country rock — granite, limestone, and metamorpbio slate. The ledges of mineral 
are near the juncture of the .strata of slate and lime. The ores are galena, associated with some carbonate of lead, 
with quartz; a good deal of hard limestone is iuterstratified with the galena. 

The Alta is above the Santa Clara, and has a mineral vein several feet wide ; hematitic iron was found in this vein ; 
also, perhaps, a little magnetite ; but the Santa Clara is the chief lode ; this is an immense bed of mineral, and is 
apparently quito rich ; the metalliferous vein is many feet thick, and, perhaps, extends through to the eastern side of the 
peak in a horizontal direction. 

Timhei: — There is little or none in the imniediaU' vicinity of the mines, but ten or fifteen miles distant along the 
range, plenty for fuel is found. 

Water. — Plenty of water is found in Darwin Canon, a very narrow an<l contracted gorge cut through slate; this 
is about two or three miles from the miues. 

Commiiiiicafiuii. — A road could be built from Oweu's Lake to iJarwiu Canon, but sand would be very deep in places ; 
considerable labor would be required at others. A trail leads from the canon up to the mines, a good one, but very 
steep. It is said that a road can be built up another canon to the south and southwest of mines, to -within a mile at 
the farthest. I did not pass over, this ground, but think, from what I saw of the termini, it would cost considerable, 
both in labor and money, and the ore would then have to be packed down ou mules to the road, for some time at 
least after the mines are worked. The mines are not worked yet. 



* From notes furnished by Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. 



52 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

TELESCOPE DISTKICT, CALIFORNIA. 

Visited by a topograpliical party. (No notes.) Situated soutli and west from Telescope Peak ; 
deserted at the time of our visit for want of means on the part of tlie owuoi-s to prosecute explora- 
tions. 

LYON« DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. 

Discovered in 1S71. Lies in Cottonwood Canon, that runs into tlie northwestern arm of 
Death Valley. The veins are true Assures of low-grade ore, protruding through solid granite 
near where eruptive beds of volcanic rock have come in. A fine stream of water rises near the 
head of the caiion, and sinks after flowing three or fonr miles. This is fringed along its entire length 
with heavy cottonwoods. This locality has been but little prospected, but undoubtedly is mineral- 
bearing over quite a large area. 

DKATH VALLEV DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. 

This district, as its name indicates, overlooks the valley of that name, being on the eastern slope 
of the Telescope Range. A little mining for gold from quartz was done here. The same remarks 
apply as in the case of the Telescope District. 

KL 1>AS0 DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* 

This district lies tweuty-eight miles soiitUetist of Walker's Fass, or about oue Limdreil and seveuty-li\ e miles from 
Los Angeles or Visalia, and is easily accessible, o\er fair roads. Timber noue. Excellent water may be bad from wells. 
Formation, of easily decomposing granite, associated with metamorphic rocks, and carrying quartz and felspar seams. 
The quartz seems to contain mostly snlphides and chlorides. Iron .and copper pyrites are jireseut, considerable argen- 
tiferous "alena, and silver and lead ores. Three adits have been started and se\eral shafts, the deepest being abou t 50 
feet. The main adit had been driven about 100 feet in a S. 25° E. direction, with an inclinatiou of about 8^\ I found 
uo seams exposed in the openings, finding speeiuiens only in the dump and in some unopened seams, whieb looked as 
if perhaps workable. Tlie mining was evidently of the simplest description, lliues at present entirely deserted. 

AMARflOSA MINES, CALIFORNIA.* 

Twenty miles east of tlie s.iiitli end of Death Valley, and north of Camp t'ady, near tlie old Mormou trail. Tliey 
are deserted, though the remains of buildings, adits, and stump-heads. &c.,show that considerable work basbeeu doue. 
Wood and grass entirely wanting, while the little water present is very alkaline. The adits are in granite, ruu at 
random in from the sides of a canon; they follow no seams, vein.s, or deposits of any kind, and noue could be found, 
while there was no ore discoverable iu the iliimp-piles or lU'hris. The distance fron\ th<^ base of supplies, and the 
desert nature ol tlie inmili y. wuiild iiinbibit aiivtbing but the very ilrliest of mines to lie worked witli any pnitit. 

TlMHKIl MolNTALX DISTRICT, NEVADA. 

Discovered iu 18U!», in Spring IVIountiiin Range, north and west from Las N'egas ranch. The 
ores are galena and sulphide of silver, in addition to large deposits of low-grade ba.se metal silver 
ores, distribnted over a large area. The high mountains are heavily wooded. All the appurtenances 
for mining can easily be rendered available, and the Colorado River will, in time, be the outlet for 
these ores. 

YELLOW FINE DISTRICT, NEVADA.! 

The mine is on the crest of a fractured anticlinal of limestone of Carboniferous age. The broken strata make with 
each other an angle of 90^, and have received little, if any, relative vertical displacement along the plane of fracture. 
Supposing, as is presumable, that the fracture has afforded a channel for the distribution of the ores, it is probable that 
other bodies, similar to those already found, are irregularly disposed among the cru.slied beds below, but a coutinuons 
lead is not to he anticipated. 



* From notes furnished by Mr. A. R. Marvine. 
t From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 



EXPLOEATIOX Ilf NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 53 

The Comet n.iue was the only oue ^•i.sited in this district, and it is understood to be the prominent 
n. ue. The ore .s of the smelting order, b„t, Jndging fron. genera, appearances, does not arr, a 
n.atr.x const.tnent. a natnra, iiux. Shonld such be the case, this mine cannot be worked with ;ofi 
s.nce the presen remote location will not permit of transporting to the site of the mine an ar iflei 1 
fluxing agent. I qn.te agree with Mr. C^.ilbert as regards his notions of permanencv, frona a mn 
exper.ence among hmestone districts. Galena ores, as a rnle, are deposits in beds or .oX 
.at er t an as v.ns. The Yellow Pine district as organized, however, is of great extent, ad is 
saul to show a mnlt.plicity of locations and ores. Donbtless n.an. of thenr wil^e ntilized L^ U^ 
Colorado P.ver act as the channel of s.,ipn>ent, as these mountains offer favorable facilities "ch 
::^'T2^r^'TTr'' ""''"'''■ ^^--^"P-*--f^^--.ehasanexposur;ofHme. 

o,hea.ten slopes by ernptive beds .,f volcanic roclc. There is an immense bod; of heavy pine 
tunber distnbuted over a great share of the higher elevations of the Spring Mounhun Kanl'. 

f'l.ARKE DI.STRU'J'. 

This district is situated partly in Nevada and partly in California. The tirst reduction tiom the 
held notes places Ivanpah and the mines in its immediate vicinity in Nevada, while those 2^0 
the son h are :n California. This resnlt shonld not. however, be consider d a final s 
subject to certain sources of error. ' * 

The mines here are in three groups, and show entirely dissimilar charact.-ristics. The most 
orhrly groups, u. the vicinity of Ivanpah, occnr as thin veins in limestone, and dipping- u L n 

:^ T:::T\ """'' """ ^'^^'-^ ^"^■-^^•^"'^^ -^ ^tede^dtlte/and some JZ ^ ^ 
s.h er The pa.vstreak ,s very narrow ; the country rock greatly disturbed. 

ihe more southern locations were not visited. The first lot found in the vicinity of Chrke 

Monntam occur m granite, and are reported as wide veins of low-orade silver 

Stdl f^.rther south, nearly fifteen miles, large deposits of copper have been locate.l and opened 

to some extent. Water is scarce in the northern part, but more plentv lower down t r 'e T 

::::i^T'' '"""^ '-" """^' ^-^^ ^-"---^ ^^'^-^ - ^'- ^-orado;::::^!::; 

h.UKi?o7aTeir"''''\'"V" ''""'"■"' '^ •^""•^" '"''^^^^- ^^^'- ~ -- ""~S and in the 
hand, of a well-organ:zed and powerful company ought to be nuule remunerative 

Contracts were in operation for building a o-stamp mill at Ivanpah ; this would render available 
consKiera^le ore now on the dumps, valued at about .8100 per ton. Ore at present " 1 j'ed on 

M,n,n labor, .».3 pei da, . Ind.an labor is utilized to a small extent. Freight from Los Anoeles is 

cents per po.„K,. .Vo indications of water in any of the shafts ; but a wel is being sunk ; we 
the m.nes and the town and on the western slope of the range. Depth, 70 feet ; u;w:^ ^Z 

NEW YOEK- DISTRICT, NEVADA AND CALIFORNIA. 

This district lies south and east from Clarke Mountain, at a distance of seventeen miles Mines 
extend on the western side of the range. Deposits of a cupreous sort of ore were notic prob b v 
^erypoornI sdver. Galena and sulphuret ores were found on the eastern slope, wl'^'e 
« ood and grass plenty. Approaches to the Colorado Eiver easy. 

HUALAPAIS DISTRICT, ARIZONA. 

This was located years ago, and known as the Sacramento district. Some labor was spent with 
httle succes.s, until finally the parties were driven out by Indians. was spent, « ul, 



54 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

lu the spring of 1871 a party of prospectors re-entered the district, and discovered many new- 
veins, showing almost every variety of silver ores. Some little excitement followed, and very many 
claims were located. The general direction of the ledges is from north 10° west, to north 55° west, 
and the surface exposure of mineral is the largest 1 have ever seen. The veins occur in solid 
granite, and along edges of eruptive volcanic beds, and are wide and well defined. Many of the 
surface ores are rich, and especially the nari'ow veins, most of which will prove to be feeders. 
Both gold and silver are found, the latter predominating. Tlie veins that are to be permanent will 
be of the lower-grade ores, but yet of sufficient richness to admit of their being worked even in 
this locality. There are evidences that the water-level is to be found early, and that the ore will 
assume a more i^ermanent form, principally of the blue sulpburet variety. One of the handsomest 
veins that it has ever been my fortune to examine was the Porter mine, at that time the best 
developed in depth in the district, .showing a distinctly organized vein in solid granite at 5.5 feet. 
Mining operations can now be conducted in the northwestern part of Arizona, as the Hualapais 
Indian.s, occupying this section, have been subdued and are at peace. The Colorado Eivcr is near at 
hand as a mode of transit, and the pi'ojected Atlantic and Pacific Railroad passes midway between 
sevei'al mining districts that border on the river. I look upon this district as one of the most 
promising in Arizona, and, indeed, among many of those met in my travels. One 5-stamp, free 
process mill is in process of erection. 

sia: 

This district was discovered in 1871, and lies on the eastern slope of the Hualapais Mountains 
at a distance of thirty miles from the Needles on the Colorado River, and the railroad near the 
thirty-fifth parallel passes within nine miles of the principal locations. The mineral belt covers 
an area of nearly twenty square miles. The veins are similar to those in the Hualapais district, 
have the same direction, and, in fact, to a remarkable degree, these districts are counterparts 
No work done yet. "Wood, timber, and water are plenty. The site for a mining-camp is very 
desirable. This locality also will act as a center, from which much prospecting will be done further 
down the same range; also to the south and east, and bordering the country of tlie Apache- 
Mohaves, from which locality float-mineral was noticed in different places. 

The mines iu the vicinity of Prescott were visited by Lieutenant Lockwood, and a slight 
memorandum appears in his report. 

Those about Bradsliaw Mountains were visited l>y a party under Lieutenant Lyle, and his 
remarks are quoted. Later statistical information has been obtained from this locality, which is 
to be collated in systematic form for a subsequent report. From very many localities during the 
season float-mineral has been brought into camp, until one is weary with so much mineral and so 
many mountains. It all adds to that forcible proof, already established iu my own mind, that tin- 
stores of precious minerals iu our western territory are inexhaustible, and that mining in the 
United States is only in its infancj". 

MINES IN UKADSIIAW MOUNTAINS, ARIZONA.* 

These niiiie.s Vu; southeast from Prescott, Arizona Territory, and about forty miles distant. The piiueipal mining 
districts are the Tiger, Pine Grove, and Bradshaw, iu the Bradshaw Mountains, and near Bradshaw City, a mining- 
ciimp near the suiuniit of t!ie mountain and at an elevation of ahout 7,0(10 feet. Tliese mines arc on the main range 
of mountains, whose trend is nearly north and south. 

TIGER DI.STEICT, ARIZONA.* 

Tliis district was organized iu June, 1871, by the Tiger Mining Company. Principal mines : Tiger, California, 
Benton, Gray Eagle, Loreno, and Eclipse. There are several other ledges, but these are the principal ones. 

* From notes furnished by Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. 



EXPLOEATION i:S^ NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 55 

1. 'J'iijfi: — This uiiue i^s opened liy a sbaft 90 feet deep, aud a level run 20 feet below tlie surface, aud auother one 
at the depth of 80 feet. Country rock : giauite aud slate. The hanging aud foot walls are, "both of them, slate iu all 
the miucs iu the Tiger district. Croppings bold. Ores: sulphurets of silver; assays |S00 to §1,000 per ton, first-class 
ore ; $60 to $80 geueral average ; width of vein, 10 feet. The vein has been traced for four or five miles. 

■2. California. — Ledge 30 feet thick, and two miles long. Ores: silver; chlorides and sulphurets ; all tlie mines in 
the district, silver with a little gold. 

riNE GKOVE DISITIIICT, AEIZONA.* 

This district was organized iu .June, b-^70. Principal mines: Blaudiua, Jlorelaud, New Era, Shcltou, aud Hunter. 
Ores: gold and silver; sulphurets and chlorides. Course of veins, north and south, northeast and southwest. No 
work being done yet. 

BRADSHAAV DISTER'T, AKIZOXIA.* 

Date of organization unknown, bnt prior to the others. Principal mines: Del Pasco, War Eagle, and Bradshaw. 
Ores : gold-quartz ; course of veins, north and south aud northeast aud southwest ; country rock : granite ; foot-walls : 
granite aud .sometimes the hanging- walls. Timber: plenty of pine, juniper, aud some oak. Building aud mining 
timber is abundant on the ground and excellent in quality. TVater: scarce — not enough for milling purposes. It 
is found in the shafts, but it is questionable whether the supply will be sufficient for mining purposes. Mills: no mill 
or machinery yet in the Tiger district; a small 5-stamp gold-mill in Bradshaw district for milling rock taken from 
the Del PascQ mine ; water suiiply not very abundant. Cost of various articles at Bradshaw City : hay, per ton, $75 ; 
barley, per pound, 15 cents ; lumber, iier thousand feet, .^100 ; miners, $2.50 per day and board ; blasting-powder, per 
keg, $15; freight, per pound, 15 cents; cost of a ."i-stamp mill, fput up.) 110,000; cost of a 10-stamp mill, $15,000 to 
$20,000 ; cost of a 20-stamp mill, $25,000, 

liemaiks. — Prescott, Arizona Territory, is the nearest po.st-oi'fice. about forty miles distant, reached by a trail. 
This has a good track, but is, in mauy places, very steep. There is a wagon-road from Walnut Grove to Miunehaba 
Flat, live miles from Bradshaw City. A steep trail leads up from the flat to the city. The place contains about one 
dozen log-houses and a store. 

TUKKEY CKEEK DISTEICT, AEIZONA.* 

Mines are deserted ; tbey are all gold, I think : an old dismantled mill on Turkey Creek ; lack of water for mining 
pui'poses. 

WEAVER DISXIUCT, ARIZONA.* ' 

This district is situated south of Antelope Mountain and in the vicinity of Wickeuburg, Arizona Territory. 
Recorder, C. P. Stanton, at Vulture City, three aud oue-fourth luiles north of Wickeuburg. Principal nnnes: Great 
Sexton and Mason. 

1. Great Scxtoti. — This mine is opened by a shaft aud tunnel. Ores: gohl-beariug qiuartz ; assays $30 per ton. 
Only fifty tons have been worked at Vulture null ; result not known. 

2. Mamin. — Opened by a shaft ; ore worked by horse arrastras. Ores : gold and silver, with quartz ; assays $640 
silver and $27 gold per ton. Country rock : quartz and granite. General eour.se of veins in district : northeast and 
southwest. 

Mills, coat of luhor, 4c. — Vulture mill, at Vulture City, is a 40-stamp mill. Mining-labor, $3 to $4 per day. Wood, 
at Vulture City, $10 per cord ; very scarce. Plenty of grass and water. 

WALNTUT GROVE DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* 

None of the veius are being worked now iu this district ; no water for past two seasons. Priucipal mines: Sutler, 
Blue Jay, Big Eebel, Josephine, Eobinson, aud Crescent Lead. 

1. Sh/Ut,— Ores refractory; both gold and silver found, but principally gold ; assays $30 gold, $17 to $16 silver per 
ton ; no galena ; thickness of lode, 22 feet pay-ore ; course of vein, northeast and southwest. 

2. Blue Jo.i/.— This mine was opened by a shaft aud tunnel, the latter 70 feet iu length, run on a 4-foot vein of 
gold aud silver, 

3. Big Seitl — Opened by a tunnel ; gold-be.aring quartz in .slate formation ; lode 12 feet thick ; course of vein, 
northeast and southwest ; assays $37 gold per ton. 



* From notes furnished by Lieutenant D, A, Lylc, 



56 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

4. Jusyj/i i«c.— Opened by a tiiunel in years IStio and 1660; vein in slnte; 18 inches thick of jiay-rock; course of 
hide, north and south ; assays .§47 jier ton ; contains some free gold. 

.'i. Hubiiison.—OpeneA by a shaft and tunnel, the tunnel tapping the vein 80 feet below the surface; course of lodes 
north and south ; ores quite rich ; $90 to .§100 per ton resulting from working arrastras: free gold. It is said that a mill 
will .'soon be erected for -norking this mine. 

6. Crescoit Lead— Ore, galena ; assays §884 .silver, and G^i per cent, of lead : ."> feet of pure metal : course of lode, 
northeast and southwest ; no work done yet. 

JUmaH: — All these mines held by miners under United States laws. 



The Montgomery is the principal mine, located in October, 1863 ; worked by horse-arrastras ; $250 to $300, free 
gold, resulting; have had no water now for two years. This was the first mine opened in Yavapais County, Arizona 
Territory. 

MARTINEZ DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* 

The mines in this district lie south and southwest from Camp Date Creek. Principal mines : Mayflower and Mar- 
tinez. 

1. iIuijHomr. — Mine, gold; matrix matter, quartz; country rock, granite ; strike of lode, northeast and southwest ; 
opened by a .shaft sunk 40 feet; $10,000 expended on this mine; ore hauled to A'ultnre mill, twenty miles distant ; 
water scarce — some in Martinez Creek, two miles distant ; coarse of creek, southeast— empties into Ha.ssyampa. 

2. Martinez. — This mine is said to be richer than the Mayflower ; gold-quartz, formerly worked by arrastras ; 
first ton paid_$l-29 gold ; not working now ; cost of mining-labor, $3 to $4 per day. Title, miner's : these two mines are 
liearly south of Camp Date Creek, Arizona Ten-itory, and six miles distant. 

SANTA MARIA DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* 

Boundaries unknown; the Rhinoceros is the principal mine; lode 3 feet thick, inclosed in walls nearly vertical ; 
nut working now. 

VrLTCRE MINE, ARIZONA. 

This mine, so noted as being famous among tlte gold mines of Arizona, could not be visited this 
sutumer for want of time ; however, certain iuformatiou lias been gathered, ■which will be placed 
in form in due time. One poiut of significance is the fact that at the uiine it is reported that 
there are tuore than 1,000,000 tons of ore, of low grade, that cannot be transi^orted 14 miles to the 
mill, for reduction, because of the cost. The dump-piles at a great atany mines all over the country 
are groaning with just such loads as this; certainly an argument in favor of concentrating pro- 
cesses, and increased and cheapened facilities for mining. In this conuectiou let me say that I 
believe that the production of gold from Arizona is likely to be far in advance of the same mineral 
from Nevada. The mines in Apache Pass, visited in 1S6S, are somewhat similar in character to 
the Vulture mine, and are sure to become productive upon the opening u]) of the country. 

:mines in the final moi'ntains, Arizona. 

Upon reaching Tucson it was found that considerable interest was evinced iti .some late dis- 
coveries in the Pinal Mountains, a pretty dangerous Indian localitj'. Notice of these will be 
found in Lieutenant Lockwood's report, and the following remarks of Dr. Hoffman are herewith 
attached : 

Gold. — Auriferous sand was found near the trail leadnig from the Salt River to Camp Pinal, 
about eight miles .south of the river. The formation was .syenitic, with occasional bowlders of 
granite, ilinute particles of gold were visible in the sand, and .specimens, or rather sample.s, of 
sand preserved. Xott. — It is believed that i)rospectors so far have been unsuccessful in utilizing 
these same placers. 



* From notes furuishod by Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 57 

Silver. — Ou iieaiiug Camp I'iual, and abont six miles noitb, we foiiud float, (iu the different 
washes,) consisting of stromeyerites, with their coatings of azurite and malachite. The fragments 
were rich, and would probably be worth $100 to $150 per ton ; but these were, apparently, choice 
pieces. The float was fonnd on both the northern and southern slopes of the Pinal Mountains. 
After we arrived at Florence, I saw members of a private prospecting party, who had tine specimens 
of silver ore, and which they claimed npon assay was worth $7,000 per ton. I think it utterly 
impossible, as the ore consisted of a cupreous and argentiferons hematite, with blotches of 
stromeyerite, &c. 

Until the Indian difticulty is settled, mining must remain practically at a stand-still in Arizona, 
except in the northwest part of the Territory and certain other strips that border the Colorado River. 
In closing this subject, which somewhat in detail has given the frame-work of what may be 
considered as worthy of receiving attention ou the part of Government explorations, a few sugges- 
tions will be ventured npon material, though not new, yet that still has a vital bearing upon the 
mining interests of the far West, that are slowly struggling toward their merited prominence, 
and upon subjects worthy the attention of our political economists and legislators. 

The time is fast approaching when the miuing interest is to assume a greater national promise 

and the one, next to agriculture, that calls for an enlightened support on the part of the Government. 

Experience, already gained, leads to the conclusion that it is proper, as among the first steps, 

to set apart certain areas from the public domain, to be segregated from the public lands and 

to be known as " mineral lauds," to be subject to entry, patent, and sale as such, and governed by 

special laws, the details of which have been so selected that the Governuient interests shall be 

secured, that free and equal rights to all the miners shall be obtained, so that tlie public lands, 

held in heritage for succeeding generations, shall not be created into a subsidy to the minei'al 

interest, and so that a fresh impetus shall be given to mining enterprises that are to depend upon 

our private capital legitimately employed for their support. From the mapping out of the 

geographical boundaries of various districts it appears that they often overlap each other and 

follow no standard regarding size, therefore early legislation may well fix these limits that surround 

any specially discovered mineral area, and as the longer axis of the mineral cropping is generally 

sensibly north and south, the liaiiting rectangle might well be established to not exceed twenty 

miles in this direction, and fourteen miles iu an easterly aud westerly direction, measuring from 

the central location. So far as segregating areas of land from the public lands and applying them 

to mineral purposes is concerned, it cannot result iu detriment to the Government interests, that 

accrue from the occupation and sale of new lands. Since the laws governing the new disposition 

have for their precedent the system that has worked so admirably in securing homesteads to 

settlers in remote sections, and stipulate similar terms, but away from the sea-board, from dose 

inland transportation, the interior mining districts, of which the number increases year by year, 

need all that surrounds them to themselves, as a part and parcel of their owu integral character. 

Furthermore, at ninety-nine out of every one hundred districts, agricultural land as such has no 

marketable value unless the mines are worked, and the remunerations from mining enterprises 

are not generally so great as to render it advisable for a capitalist to seek a remote corner where 

mines are for sale and first purchase a shaky possessory title to a mine, successively titles to water, 

mill, wood sites and other necessary conveniences for conducting his operations. It seems highly 

desirable that this idea of setting aside mineral districts as sucli should be favorably considered. 

The local mining laws in districts that ai-e distant from settlements are generally formed by 
the parties of prospectors who push out in advance, and, discovering fresh mineral, at once set 
out to form a district. Ordinarily these parties have no text at hand that gives them a version of 
8 



58 1<:XPL0RATI0N IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

the best kiio\Yii local miiiiiiy la\T.s, aud are probably unskilled iu legal or other techuicalities ; they 
create a system of laws which would auswer very well if the mines were of no value, but iu case 
of sudden developments of wealth, where chances to question the validity or extent of a claim aie 
involved, the loose description from the records affords one of the arguments in favor of litigation. 
Therefore, it seems not unwise to frame a set of local mining laws that shall be generally acceptable 
to all the interests involved, that branch oat into new and un])rospected regions, and which shall 
conform to the United States laws already enacted and which shall be acces.sible to all. The 
nearest appioach to such a system was found in the set of by-laws adopted to control the Blind 
Mountain district, that were prepared by an able mining lawyei- in San Francisco, whose long 
experience entitles him to consideration. 

They would be quoted here only that the space does not permit. On the part of Congress, the 
most earnest solicitude should be evinced to so amend the general mining law, from time to time, 
as to make it conform to the strict sense of needs that are requisite to the various mining sections, 
to be governed by experience and knowledge gathered from time to time from reliable sources. 

It is believed that tlie bill now before the mining committee in Congress has stipulations 
defining, -with a greater accuracy and with a more liberal tone, the limits and integral character of 
a " vein, lode, ledge, or deposit," and embraces details favorable to a more speedy method of 
obtaining a secure title to mineral property. 

By persons whose experience has led them to take a comprehensive view of the wants of the 
mineral interest in our western territory, and to the position that the Government sliould assume 
as the guardian of this trust, the necessity and desirability of a national school of mines has 
already been urged. For me to concur would be only to reiterate ideas already advanced; presum- 
ing, theu, upon the use and practicability, it only remains to mark the place, and the single sugges- 
tion offered is, that it should be at Washington. Besides, it may be urged as a national economy 
that the proceeds available from tlie sale of mineral lands should be devoted to the maintenance of 
such an institution. 

One of the urgent wauts felt in the promotion of our mining industry is that of increased and 
cheapened inlandlransportation. Eiver transportation tipou our western coast is, to a great extent, 
a failure, as beyond the Columbia and Colorado Elvers, that furnish somewhat irregular avenues 
of connection with the interior, no streams of considerable magnitude exist; river transportation, 
even in this very American age, lose^ its great power when pitted against railroads, as instanced 
at many localities in the valley of the Mississippi, Avhcre railroads supersede the river modes of 
transportation because of speed and time. 

Therefore, it is railroads that the mining interiors of the western coast need, and it is not 
believed that Congress should, at this season, be so sparing of its land-grants to aid private capital 
iu the prosecution of these schemes, since, having already given over to privfite corporations the 
better share of the lands that yet renuiin, there is relatively but little danger of diminishing the 
l)rospective revenue of the countiy by withholding from corporations, devoted to local interests 
only, grants of the very inferior land that in the majority of instances will inclose these lines of 
road. Narrow-gauge roads, that have met with so much favor upon the Continent, and which at 
present are being slowly introduced in the United States, recommend themselves at once to any 
one desirous of seeing tliis charactei' of communication brought, as speedily as possible, to the doors 
of our mineral wealtli. 

In the new areas of silver-bearing veins that arc becoming so numerous, it requires but litth' 
discrimination to show that the majority of the ores are complex in their character, and that the 
present known melhods of reduction give only an ai)proximate percentage of their silver-bearing 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 59 

Aiilue; tlit'iel'uie, tUe iiupioveiiieuts that arc I'roiu time (o time suggo.-sted in tlie methods that may 
be adopted for the extractiou of a higlier percentage of bidliou, arc worthy of attention. Thns it 
is that, on account of greater facilities of talent and machinery, the refinery at Newark is iu advance 
of that at San Francisco, and, iu turn, that of Swansea collects the best-known methods of reduc- 
tion ; but cannot the skill and knowledge that is aggregated at these centers be diffused again, so 
that we can bring to little mining camps in the interior, practical results that shall enable them to 
resume operation upou one that is worth twenty dollars per ton, which before must remain un- 
touched, because impossible to obtain from it more thau fifteen? A subject worthy of uote, since 
for many years the shipment of the base-metal ores will be made to these reduction centers, is that 
of concentration of ores by the specific gravity or eutirely mechanical process. Several attempts 
at this have beeu made, but with, so far, but little success. 

The mechanical appliances are imperfect, but are susceptible to that modification that shall 
l>rove the availability of the method. The introduction of cheapened labor, and especially in remote 
districts, a subject so sensibly urged by Mr. R. W. Raymond, United States Commissiouer of Mining 
Statistics, merits favorable consideration. Let this labor come from whatever quarter of the globe 
it may, let it be Asiatic, African, European, or American, there should be no restriction to free 
trade in this particular when the necessities of a national interest require it for its development. 
I am led to believe that one thing that hinders greatly the embarking of capital iu uew localities is 
the want of reliable information as to the presence and position of the mineral-bearing ores. 

The bullion product of the country, since statistics have beeu collected, has beeu found to vai-y 
withiu limits never exceeding uinety millious of dollars per annum; after the exhaustion of the 
placer-mines of California, this product sensibly decreased, until a reaction iu its favor was experi- 
enced from the early results furnished by the Comstock lode. Much prospecting has beeu done 
since that time and a great fnauy mineral districts located ; the common experience proves these 
to be principally of silver. The sizes and grades of the districts are varied. They are all possessed 
of a greater or less amount of the precious metals, and iu the prosperous future are to contribute 
to our national wealth and necessities, so that those who live to see the close of the present century 
may not be surprised at an annual product of bullion as large as one hundred and fifty millions, 
!io more than they may be at the fact of the present ore in sight in AVashoe — a mine which by many 
was not long- since thought to be practically exhausted — of a supposed value of fifteen millious of 
dollars; all of this, provided enlightened legislation will study and assist the want of legitimate 
mineral enterprises. ' 

Siher ore occurs iu connection with limestone, granite, the older volcanic rocks, as propylite, 
andesite, rhyolite, &c., and ipiartzite; the instances of the latter are, however, very rare, as among 
the former very numerous, although the deposits are wanting in determinate characteristics. 

From the latest and most reliable geological contributions to our knowledge as to the epoch of 
formation of the silver-bearing veins, this period is fast being narrowed down to a much more recent 
geologic age than was formerly supposed. 

The map now presented eujbraces in preliminary form some of the most general topographical 
information, the location of routes pursued, the positions of mining camps, &c. A rough transcript 
from most of the topographical notes of the season is given. The final map, on a scale of one inch 
to six miles, will deliueate the topography in detail, and will be constructed with great care. 
Profiles of the more important north and south lines are to be produced. 

[NoTK. — IiiCoriii.iticin. where tiinilsbecl by meiiibers of the expedition, is printed in small type.T 



60 EXPLOKATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. • 

Coutour iii!ii)s oi' two miuiug districts are in process of preparatiou. 

A skeleton map, sLowiug the areas occupied by tlic Indian tribes and their reservations, will 
be furnished for the use of the Indian Bureau. 

A statistical map, showing relative amounts of arable, mineral, and desei't sections, will receive 
attention. 

A skeleton map embracing the perimeter lines of the great interior and exterior basins of this 
region is to be projected. 

CONCLUSION. 

Although the day of the path-linder has sensibly ended in this country, still it is expected that 
among the results of an exploration there shoidd be something new. In summing up the effort 
will be made to lay the groundwork of the new discoveries, if such they may be termed, the bearing 
that these may have on further and more extended explorations, and estimates for their continuance. 

As a subject of primal importance, the mapping out of the mining districts already discovered, 
locating their positions, areas, directions of lodes, &c., determining their place as links in the great 
chain of mineral deposition throughout the entire Cordillera system, and as presenting limits to 
the field for search for the precious minerals, the result fully sustains the most sanguine anticipa- 
tions, proving the existence of mineral districts over large areas, and also that the field for pros- 
pecting has only commenced, although it may have progressed somewhat in advance of the interior 
development of new sections of country. 

The topographical features of the great Colorado plateau have been developed along that 
portion of its perimeter from the vicinity of Saint George, in Utah, to the White Mountains rising 
out of it, near the border line between Arizona and New Mexico. Geological data along new ground 
in that specially rich field among the lower cailons of the Colorado Lave been gathered. The 
limits, character, and relations of a number of inclosed and entirely interior basins in Nevada and 
.Southeastern California liave been determined. A further exploration of the Colorado has finally 
determined the absolute head of navigation, the limit beyond which a party of examination will not 
be likely to ascend the river, and that, although navigation, subject to many diCdculties, uuiy be 
carried somewhat higher than had been expected, still the wants of the interior country will not 
denuuid this above a certain specified point. It has been ascertained that a railroad can cross the 
Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin liiver and be carried along easy grades into Arizona ; also, 
tliat the Colorado can be crossed by a north and south line near the foot of the Grand Canon, and 
that this route may at once be made available for mails to the iioitherii part of Arizona, and for 
the inland passage of troops. 

The almost incredible vertical height of the walls of the Grand Canon has been verified, as also 
the crater character of the San Francisco Mountains. Auriferous sand and gravel has been noted 
at various points on the Colorado and along the tributaries from the plateaus, and at other localities, 
though the rumor of rich and extensive placer deposits is discredited. 

The usual number of rumors of diamonds and precious stones were heard, but it is believed 
I hat their position must now be limited to quite inaccessible portions that have not yet been visited. 
]\ruch light bas been thrown upon the limits of the great interior basins and also that of the 
Colorado. These are a few of the subjects, sensibly new, that suggest themselves ; from continued 
investigations of a similar nature may be expected novel and unique information upon the same 
and allied subjects. The first grand necessity lies in the fact that the country ought to be more 
thoroughly mapped, both for military and civil purposes. In order to carry out this mapping 
project, parties in force must repair to this field, and they ought to be liberally and systematically 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 61 

fitted out; aad hence .schemes of exploratiou should foUow a settled plan and form a si)ecial part 
and parcel of the anuual estimates submitted to Congress. 

lu this connection, there is herewith submitted for the action of the Department the basis of 
a plan for the surveys and explorations necessary to a complete reconstruction of the engineer map 
of the "Western Territories, referring more especially to areas west of the one hundredth meridian 
of longitude. From a careful study of this map it appears that there are fully 175,000 square miles 
of territory unexamined instrumentally, located sensibly as follows : In Southern and Southeastern 
California, 25,000 square miles; in Southeastern, Eastern, Northwestern, and Western Arizona, 
18,000 square miles; iu Southwestern and Northern New Mexico, 15,000 s<piare miles ; in South- 
western Colorado, 10,000 square miles ; iu Western and Southeastern Utah, 20,000 square miles ; 
in Northeastern Wyoming, 12,000 square miles; in Northwestern Dakota, 10,000 scpiare miles; in 
Western 5Iontana, 26,000 scjuare miles; in Southeastern Idaljo, 15,0(»0 siiuare miles; in North- 
western, Northern, and Northeastern Nevada, 10,000 square miles; iu Southern and Southeastern 
Oregon, 11,000 square miles; and in Central Washington Territory, 10,000 square miles. 

In advance it can scarcely be expected that a limitation as to time can be set for the prosecution 
to completion of this work; several seasons, however, of lield and office labor will be requisite. 

In view of the many interests involved, whose development may be materially improved by a 
continuance of these surveys, I have the honor to request the Department to call to the attention 
of Congress the necessity of an a])propriation lor the ensuing fiscal year of $75,000, founded u[ion 
the following estimate, somewhat in detail : 

Pay of civilian assistants, in field $15, 100 00 

Pay of civilian assistants, in office , 7, 300 00 

Pay of guides, packers, laborers, &c., in field 15, 120 00 

Annual purchase of instruments 5, OOO 00 

Annual repairs of instruments 1, 000 00 

Annual purchase of material and iucideutals o, 500 00 

Purchase of animals, and transportation accounts 10, 000 00 

Forage for animals 12, 000 00 

Contingencies 5, 080 00 



Total 75, 000 00 



The first requsile will l)e to establish a base line; the central line from Omaha west follows in 
general relations the railroad already comjileted, and a comprehensive system of astronomical i)oints 
should be established at the most feasible and characteristic stations along this line, so that the 
astronomical positions may be obtained, using the telegraph; this system to be de\'eloped laterally 
as rapidly, as the telegraph reaches ^interior localities. The expeditions should make their first 
rendezvous points along this line of road, and follow as nearly as possible north and south lines. 
I shall at an earlj- date present to the Department a complete and detailed plan regarding the 
establishment of this astronomical base, and that field of surveys adjacent to, and which ought 
first to be taken up, to continue and complete investigations already begun along north and south 
lines. 

To a person not well ac(|uaiuted with the mountain interior of the Pacific coast, the grand 
advantage of a longitudinal view of its physical structure can scarcely be understood. 

At a subsequent period the subject of the value of the surveys (in our western interior m ith 
wLicli the Engineer Department have, from time to time, been charged) to the Executive Depart- 



62 EXPLOKATIOX m NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

rneiits of the Goverumeiit and to the iudustial iuteresls of thi; country, will be taken up and dis- 
cussed as an advance toward the idea of a survey or surveys of a more uatioual character, wliich 
the best interests of the country, whether in war or in peace, will call for at no distant day. 



APPENDIX A. 
REPORT OF DANIEL W. LOCKWOOD, FIKSI LIEUTENANT OF ENOINEER^ 

Washington, D. C, February 28, 1872. 

Sir: I have the lionor to submit the followiuj;- preliminary report with regard to operations 
connected with your late expedition through Nevada and Arizona, and carried on niider my inmie- 
diate charge, being governed bj' instructions received from you from time to time. 

Having reported to you at Gamp Independence, California, August 1, 1871, in compliance with 
telegraphic instructions from the commanding general. Military Division of the Pacific, dated San 
Francisco, California, May 10, 1871, I on the following day assumed command of main party No. 2 
of your expedition, as directed by the following order: 

Encinhkh's Oj'iick, E.xi'luiiations i.\ Nk\ai>.v xsu Auizoxa, 

Beiidczrous Camp near Iinh'j)iii(TriiiT. fnlifoniiii, Anfiiist^, 1871. 
[Spcdal rielil Oi'ilers Xo. IS.) 
I. Lieuteuaut D. W. Liickwood, Corps of Engineers, having reported at tliese iK^adijiiartcrs, will assume entire 
and permanent charge of main party No. 2 of tlie expedition, for general instructions conforming to tlie spirit of 
])aragrapli :i JSpecial Orders No. 10'.), Adjutant General's Office, Irtth of Mardi, 1871, and tlie letter of the Chief of 
Engineers of March 23, 1871. 

lie will conduct this main line of the explorations along routes that will bo from tinie to time designated to him, 
and while en roule between rendezvous camps he will conduct his party precisely as if it were a separate expedition. 

Besides his executive duties, he will take personal charge of sextant astrouoniical work, more particularly with 
a view to correct latitude stations. 

Upon reaching Washington at the termination of the tield labors of the explorations of this season, lie will prepare 
at once a preliminary report of operation.s, to be followed as soon as practicalile by a detailed report, accompanied 
by sub-reports of certain civilian assistants. 

GEO. M. WHEELEK, 
FivM LifiilciKiiil, CdQii of Kiitfiiwcrf!, ComiiiuiKling ErpcdilUin. 

The time from xiugust 2 to August 10 was employed in refitting, &c., and on the latter date 
the party left camp to proceed to Htump Springs, designated as the next point of rendezvous. 

Your expedition haviug been in the field for several months at the time of reporting for duty, 
J found, upon assuming comniaud of main party No. 2, the special oi'ganizatiou for field-work 
complete, and would recomnu'nd the iilan adopted by you as one particularly suited to the character 
of the country traversed, and the nature of the operations conducted under your charge during 
the past sea.sou. 

The personnel of the party was changed, from time to time, bat was always kept up in such a 
manner as to enable me to apply my.self more particularly to duties of an administrative character 
and to daily astronomical work. 

The departments of geology, mineralogy, and natural history were represented throughout 
the season, and the topographical department nearly all the time was in c'liarge of Chief Topog- 
rapher Louis Nell, who merits my full coiameudatiou for the skill and energy he displayed. The 
party was in the field under iny charge from August 2 to December 4, 1871, and during that time 
traveled a distance of one thousand two hundred and eighty-nine miles en route from Cam]) 



EXPLORATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 63 

ludepeiuleiice, Calitbruia, to Tucson, Arizoiui Territory, the geueral course beiug as follo^vs: Down 
Owen's River Valley to Desert Wells; tbenee east to the Cottonwoods via the Amargosa River ; 
from the Cottonwoods to Saint George, on the old Salt Lake road; theuce south down the Grand 
Wash to the Ute crossing on the Colorado River. The passage of the river having been effected 
with the assistance of the boat parties, the Colorado plateau was followed to Truxtou Springs, 
Arizona Territory. Leaving this point, Prescott wasreached via Young's Spring and Bill Williams's 
Mountain, passing around its northern slope. From here the route to Tucson was via Camp 
Verde and Sunset Crossing on the Colorado Chiqnito to Camp Apache ; thence via old Camp 
Pinal to the place mentioned. 

The maiu object of the expedition, as iudicated in the letter of instructions from the Chief 
of Engineers, dated Engineer Office, Washington, D. C, March 23, 1871, being the obtaining of 
correct topographical knowledge of the area traversed, and its embodiment iu an accurate map, the 
principal labors were in carrying out this requirement. The plan adopted was the same as in 
ISO!), the different points along the route beiug located by triaugulation with a Cassella theodolite, 
and the length of base liae determined by odometer measurements. 

The positions of camps, as determined by this method, were corrected by astronomical observa- 
tions, the instruments used being sextant 2831 byTroughton and Simms, and mean solar chronom- 
eters. Whenever circumstances would permit of it, equal altitudes of the sun were taken for time, 
and circuinmeridian altitudes of the same body for latitude. Generally, however, as the camps 
along tiie route were only for one night, east and west stars were taken for time and Polaris for 
latitude. By comparison of the results thus obtained with those determined at the main astrono- 
mical stations, where a transit and zenith iustrument combined was used, the probable error of 
latitude, at least, can be reduced to a very small limit. 

With regard to the topograpbical features of the area passed over, the changes were so frequent 
and so complete that no general description will suflice for the whole, and I therefore shall present 
this subject more in detail with regard to locality than would otherwise be necessary. Some idea, 
however, of the change in character of topographical features along the route traveled may be 
formed when the nature of the transition from the desert valleys and lofty, rugged, volcanic moun- 
tains of Southern (California to the elevated plateau bordering the Coloiado River, and generally 
Northern Arizona, is fully understood. 

On the 10th of August the party left Independence and followed Owen's River Valley to its 
southern extremity. Desert Springs was the most southern point reached on the march to the ren- 
dezvous cainp at Cottonwood Springs, Nevada; thence the line of travel was nearly due east, and 
most of the time followed the wagon-trail from Visalia, California, to the Ivanjiah mines. This 
road crosses several ranges of mountains and is only available for wagons lightly loade<l. In the 
vicinity of Canii) Independence the ranges bordering the valley (that of Owen's River) are high, 
steep, and rugged, the Sierras on the west being in some localities quite heavily wooded. A large 
number of streams make down from these mountains and flow' into Owen's River, and it is to these 
natural irrigation ditches that the valley owes its importance as an agricultural region. Many fine 
ranches are located all down the valley as far as near the lake, twenty-three miles from Inde- 
pendence, but below that point only the regular stations established at the springs along the road 
are met with. 

The mountains grow lower as progress is made toward the south, iu some places becoming 
mere rolling hills ; tJiis is pai'ticularly the case near the divide, between the Inyo and Coso Ranges, 
on the eastern side of the valley, where a broad expanse of country could be seen stretching oft" 
toward the Amargosa River and having all the appearance of beiug a perfect desert. 



G4 EXPLORATIOX m NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 

Desert Springs, one hundred and uineteeu miles from Camp Independence, was reached 
August 35. The principal topographical features of interest noticed between Desert Springs and 
the Cottonwoods was the character of the valleys traversed. These valleys are simply inclosed 
basins, with a gradual slope to the south, terminating, in nearly every instance, in an alkali lake, 
generally dry. This is the case with Owen's Elver Valley, which, without donbt, formerly was 
drained into Needle Valley, where the waters, which now disappear by evaporation, and sinking 
into the earth at the two lakes below Independence, formerly lost themselves, leaving behind their 
saline constituents; and so on to the east, the presence of these flats or dry lakes indicate the 
localities of the sinks of waters which are drained from the high grounds of the valleys to the 
north and the mountains on either side. 

The Amai'gosa Eiver, about the course of which there has been considerable question, was 
carefully examined, and the result is as follows: nothing definite could be determined with regard 
to its source, but its general course was from the north to the south, and, making a complete 
change of direction about a point of rugged, volcanic mountains, near which Saratoga Siiring is 
situated, it turns to the north again in the direction of Telescope Peak, on the western side of 
Death Valley; this would seem to indicate that Death Valley and the western branch of the valley 
of the Auiargosa are the same. The results of my observations lead me to conclude that such is 
the case. 

The general direction of the river, after turning to the north, can be followed for a long dis- 
tance, running off into a deep desert valley; the mountains boidering it rise up, rugged and steep, 
with no foot-hills of any importance. 

The country drained by the tributaries of the Amargosa extends east and west from Clarke 
Mountain, in the Ivanpah mining district, to Leach's Point, and the only indication of the existence 
of a river in this region is the bed, or wash, which marks its course. The character of the soil is 
such that the water sinks throughout the whole course of the stream, while the amount that disap- 
l)ears by evaporation, in consecpience of the extreme heat that prevails throughout the year, is 
immense. 

While at Saratoga Spring the thermometer indicated, between 4 and 5 p. m., a temperature of 
1120 F. in the shade, and at p. m. the difference between the dry and wet bulb was 30°. 

Nothing can exceed the utter desolation of this portion of California; the only vegetation that 
could be seen was an extremely scanty growth of gTeasewood, and even this disappears near the 
bottom of the valley, while lor miles the river's banks are inarl^cd by a heavy deposition of various 
salts. 

The soil on the higher ground is sandy and barren, and lower down is of a dark, redtlish brown 
color, and, at the time we passed, of about the consistency of stiff mortar, and yet there was no 
water on the surliice ; one ordinary rain would haxe rendered the course taken impracticable, and 
have necessitated a long detour to the south through the heavj- sand. 

At Saratoga Springs the Mater is warm and very alkaline. A scanty growth of grass about 
the spring alforded some relief to the eye, after the dull monotony of the surrounding desert, but 
not to the poor animals, who appear to derive but little benefit fr'om it, and were growing visibly 
weaker each day. The water of the next spring to the east contains a large amount of salt in addi- 
tion to the other ordinary alkaline ingredients, peculiar to the waters of this region. Only a very 
few of the animals would drink at this point, and they appeared to suffer considerably from so doing. 

Ivanpah was reached on the 27th of August. No examination was made of the mines, you 
having expressed an intention of doing so yourself. So far as I could determine, however, the 
l)rincipal veins were rpiite narrow, and the ore in some cases very rich in silver. 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND. ARIZONA. 65 

Cottonwood Springs were reached August 30, witliout accident; from tbis point to Truxtou 
Springs main party No. 1 was placed under my command with Lieutenant Lyle in executive charge. 
Tlie following extract from Special Field Orders No. 20, dated September 2, 1871, will explain the 
character of my duties : 

* " * • The intei-Tal from tbe dopaiture of the river part}' from this camp, about September 7 to the 5th of 
October, will be occupied in esaminatiou by tbe main expedition, in Southeastern Nevada, Southwestern Utah, and to 
the point of crossing of the Colorado, the arrangements being somewhat as follows : 

A small topographical party, in charge of F. R. Simonton, -n-ill proceed via Las Vegas Ranch to Mormon Wells, or 
Sheep Mountain Springs, north and cast from Gass Peak, on A'egas Range ; thence via head-waters of the Muddy, to 
join one of the main parties at tbe crossing of the old Salt Lake road. Another topographical partj will be detached at 
Saint Joscpb, to go via Saint Thomas, S.alt Mountain, and across the A'irgin Range. North and east to Saint Georo-e the 
main line of the expedition will continue along the old Salt Lake road as far as Saint George. From tbe old California 
crossing still another party will be detached to proced.via Mormon Canon, Clover Talley, Shoal Creek, Mountain 
Meadows, &c., to Saint George. These will be known respectively as side parties 1, 2, .and 3; the selection of persons 
to fill these parties will be made at once. A small topographical party will ascend Charleston Peak and return to this 
camp. 

After reaching Saint George, the examinations should be along the area about the southeast corner of the reconnais- 
sance map of 1869, and must be selected after reaching the above-named point. Probably routes may be selected along 
either side of the Buckskin Range of mountains, which at tbis locality is supposed to be a continuation of Wahsatch. 

If possible, the best camp nearest the river, on a line sensibly joining S.aint George and the point of crossiu"-, 
should at once be selected for the rendezvous of the expedition. From this camp. Lieutenant Lyle, in charge of a small 
partyof observation, will go out to select a favorable point at which to cross the river, which will take jilace upon 
the boats of the river i>arty, this point being selected prior to theSth proximo, with a view to a good camp, if possible, as 
well as a favor.able outlet toward the south. Uxion the arrival of the boat party at this point, immediate informa- 
tion will be sent to the land iJarties, who will at once make a hurried march for the river, where they will be crossed, 
and continue on at once to Peacock Springs. A small party of observation will remain af this point, and the boat 
liarty will continue the ascent of the river, reaching the canon at the mouth of the Diamond River, if possible, to 
which point a party of relief and observation will be sent from Peacock Springs to t.ake the party to camp. The time 
necessary for this jiarty to wait at the mouth of the Diamond River cannot be stated until at the crossing of the river. 

In case the boat party cannot reach the .above-mentioned point they will fallback upon the small party of obser- 
vation at tbe crossing, which, in consequence, must be re- enforced by riding and pack animals from Peacock Springs, 
after the main expedition shall have reached this point. 

Lieutenant Lockwood is hereby placed in command of all the land parties, and Lieutenant Lyle in executive 
charge of main ]>arty No. 1, while both parties are together, and in entire and absolute charge of this party when it 
shall be separate. 

GEO. M. WHEELER, 
Firxt Liciilciiaiit, Corps of Engineers, Commanding Ej'peclHion . 

Side parties were sent to Charleston Peak and Mormon AVell. The march was resumed on 
the 15th of September, and on the 20tli the Muddy Eiver was reached, the march across the Vegas 
desert, forty-six miles long, having been made without accident. From here a side i^arty was sent 
off via Clover Valley and Shoal Creek, to rejoin the expedition at Saint George. The wagon was 
sent across the desert to the same place via the old Salt Lake road, and the main parties followed 
up the Virgin Eiver, reaching Saint George the 26th of September. 

The country in the neighborhood of the Muddy Eiver having been examined in 18G9, and a 
repoit with regard to it made by yourself, I shall confine myself, concerning this locality, to speak 
simply of the changes that have taken place since then. 

In 18G9 the two settlements of Saint Joe and Saint Thomas were thriving towns, as Mormon 
industry is understood, while West Point, only just settled, bade fair, in time, to equal them in 
agricultural benefits and population. These settlements are now all deserted by theLr former inhabi- 
tants, they having left owing to the establishment of the fact that the places mentioned were in 

y 



66 EXPLOEATIOX IN 2s^EVADA AXD ARIZONA. 

tbe State of Xevada. I was iiiforinecl tbat the people wlio formerly lived here are now settled 
some where in Arizona, about two hundred miles to the east of Saint George. The improvements 
at Saint Joe and at Saiut Thomas have been sold to (so called) Gentiles, and will in time constitute 
valuable properties as the mineral resources of the adjaceut country are opened up and markets for 
the products thus furnished. West Poiut has been left to the Indians, who show their apprecia- 
tion of this act of compulsory generosity ou the ]iart of the ]\roriiions by increased impudence (were 
that possible) to ]>eople passing near them. 

This valley is one that, especially in the upper part, is capable of grazing a large amount of 
stock ; all the caBons and washes leading down to the river are, as a general thing, heavily grassed, 
while the only water in the country around beiug that in the river, herding would be a simple matter. 

The Virgin Mountains limit the valley of the river of that name to the east, and extend in an 
almost unbroken chain to within fifteen miles of Saiut George, where the river breaks through 
them ; in some parts these mountains are heavily wooded. To the west of the river a high mesa 
extends to the irregular, broken mountains lying east of the Mormon range. This mesa is cut up 
here and there by washes which carry the surface-waters to the Virgin Ei\'er ; formerly it was the 
scene of much sntiering on the part of emigrants en route to Southern California, as the only water 
ever found is that which has collected in tanks and these drj- up during the summer. Two roads 
cross it; one direct from Saint George, striking the Muddy near the old California crossing, and one 
which follows the river down to the Virgin Hill, and thence over to Saiut Joe. Tliis hill is prac- 
tically impassable since the Mormons have abandoned the Muddy settlements, on account of the 
rain having washed off all the earth, leaving only the bare strata of rocks, which terminate in an 
abrupt staircase formation, extremely difficult even for loose animals. 

Lieutenant Lyle was sent from Saint Thomas eastward over the Virgin Eange of mountains, to 
find a suitaljle place for a temporary camp near the river, where the main parties might rendez- 
vous until your arrival up the river at the poiut of crossing. A point near Pah-Koon Springs was 
selected by him as answering the above requirement. 

The camp at Saint George was broken on the morning of October 1, and leaving Lieutenant 
Lyle in charge, I pushed forward to the river with a small party to select a poiut at which tbe 
crossing should be made. The route taken was down the Grand "Wash, or near it ; the Mormons 
had broken a sort of wagon-trail at some time iu the past down this wash or caiion, and this was fol- 
lowed so far as practicable. I had expected, from previous information, to find a high range of 
mountains designated as the Buckskin Itauge, lying to the east of the Virgin Mountains, and 
limiting the area drained by the Grand Wash in that direction ; instead, however, only an elevated 
mesa was seen, which near the river assumed a steep and rugged character, occasioned bj' the con- 
stant wash, in past ages, of waters seeking a lower level in the bed of the Colorado. For twenty 
miles north of the river the western edge of this mesa is nearly vertical, and curiously marked with 
bands of different colors, showing the stratification. To the north this mesa joins a vast wooded 
plateau, which extends to what is called Hurricane Valley, on the Virgin River, forty miles above 
Saint George. 

Your opportune arrival with your boats the morning after I reached the river, rendered it 
unnecessary for the train to remain any length of time at Pah-Koon Springs, and on the morning of 
October Gth everything was across the river and ready to proceed toTruxton Springs. The freight 
was ferried over on the evening of the 5tli, requiring only four hours, and the animals swam the 
stream the next morning. One horse had a leg broken among the rocks ; otherwise there was no 
accident of any kind. Traxton Springs were reached ou the evening of October 10th, where the 
detachment of C troop, Tliird Cavalry, detailed as escort, had already arrived. 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. (37 

The first marcli out from tbe river was to Tin-ua-kali Spriugs, near the foot of what is knowu as 
the Colorado Plateau. The trail to it leads up a broad wash, the formation continuing for some <lis- 
tance the same as on the river. The walls of the caiiou are nearly vertical for a long distance, and 
are marked by the different strata in varions colors; gradually, however, the country assumes an 
alluvial character, tbe sandy washes and the sterile gravel mesas giving place to grassy plateaus 
and occasional mesquit, and then little clumps of cedars attest the increased fertility of the soil 

Several rugged peaks and ridges are found near Tin-na-kah, and all are more or less volcanic 
m their formation and character. Ten miles from the springs the trail strikes up on to the main 
plateau. From here a fine view of the country north of the Colorado could be obtained. The North 
Side Mountain, a high conical peak, could be seen standing out alone on the vast mesa beyond the 
.rand Canon; but no range that occupied the locality assigned to the Buckskin Mountains could 
be observed. I am inclined to believe that the name has been erroneously given to the edge of the 
plateau, which extends on to the north from the mouth of the Grand Canon. This vast plateau 
extends over the whole of Northern Arizona, from near Hualapais Valley to the east. Throuoh- 
out Its whole extent, at least that portion which I passed over, the rolling hills are, as a general 
thing, covered with grass. The trail, after attaining the summit of the plateau, follows along its 
western edge, bordering Hualapais Valley until within eight miles of Truxton Springs, at which 
pou.t ,t descends a^teep hill, and gaining a sandy wash lower down, follows it out to near its 
mouth, where the springs are situated. Upon my arrival here I found the rations that were to 
have been there had not arrived. The two wagons that had been sent along to furnish transpor- 
tation lor the escort from Hualapais were immediately despatched to Camp Mohave for supplies 
aud Lieutenant Lyle, with a small escort, went on to Hualapais to bring the mail and obtain such 
articles as were most needed. 

Dr. Hoifman was sent to the mouth of the Diamond Creek, but by some mistake did not 
take the right trail, and went on to Young's Spring. On the ISth Mr. Loring came in, bringino- ■ 
a dispatch from you, and on the following morning I took charge of a small partv of relief to meet 
you at the mouth of the Diamond Creek. The trail to that point leads up a box^anon from Trux- 
ton, and passing over a rolling divide, gains a side canon, which joins the Diamond Creek about 
two miles from its mouth. Peach Spring is situated about midway. The canon leading into Diamond 
Creek is of the same general character as all the Colorado canons, having steep, rugged walls, in 
some places nearly vertical, and unbroken for a height of one thousand feet or more. In the 
vicinity ot Peach Spring the slopes are wooded with cedar, and the whole country traversed covered 
v^-ith grass, except in the gravelly beds of the washes. On the 21st the party started back, reaching 
iruston on the evening of the 22d. 

FROM TRUXTON SPRINGS TO PEESCOTT. 

On the 2ith my party starte.l for Prescott, moving out nearly due east, following for three 
days the guide-stakes established by the railroad surveying party, which had preceded me only 
a short time at Truxton. The country was found to be a series of terraced plateaus, each one to 
he east growing in height, and being gained by following up an easy grade through canons leadiug 
to their summits; these different table-lands have all the appearance of being regular mountain 
ranges when seen from the west ; the slopes in many cases are covered with timber. No water was 
found after leaving Young's Spring until the volcanic country, nearly northwest from Mount Floyd 
was reached. Here the plateau is cut up by box canons in the volcanic rock, and in many of them 
large reservoirs have been formed where the water collects during the rainv season and generally 
remains throughout the year, the temperature not being sufficiently great to evaporate the whole. 



68 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Mount Floyd is an iiregnlar uiountain uoitb of the Juniper Range, and is surrounded on all 
sides by strong evidences of volcanic agency. The whole country is strewn with eruptive matter, 
and cut up by narrow box canons, which are impassable except at certain points; the general 
direction of all these old water-beds was to the south, about the southern point of Bill Williams' 
Mountain, emptying into the Verde. The Red hutte, mentioned by Ives, coukl be seeii standing out 
by itself to the north, and beyond it what appeared to be an elevated table-land, considerably higher 
than the one upon which we then were. 

The trail led about to the north of Bill Williams' Mountain, until the San Francisco Mountains 
and Sunset Crossing road to Albuquerque, New Mexico, was reached ; this was then followed out 
through Ohino Valley to Prescott. Mr. Gilbert, chief geologist, ascended the mountain (Bill 
Williams') with a small party. Barometrical observations to obtain its height were taken, and a 
careful examination of the character of the formation made by that gentleman, the results of 
which will appear in his report. The foot-hills all about, and the mountain itself, are covered 
with a heavy growth of piue, and occasional oak thickets are found. 

The road, after leaving the mountain, gains the valley beyond by a series of very heavy grades, 
crosses Hell and Rattlesnake Caiions, of volcanic origin, and breaking through a rough, rugged 
range of hills, gains Chino Valley; from this point to Prescott there is a fine track. The Juniper 
Mountains, lying to the southwest of Bill Williams, arc low, rolling hills, and^lensely wooded. In 
the report of Lieutenant Ives this country is called the Black Forest. To the east of Chino Valley 
are the Black Hills, very rugged, with extremely steep slopes ; these hills constitute one of the 
many strongholds of the Apache-Mohave Indians. The country to the north is cut up with box 
caiions which extend to the Verde beyond, and the approaches on all sides are so difficult that in 
nearly all cases pursuit of the Indians in this vicinity is attended with very meager results. 

Prescott was reached on the night of October 31, where I found Dr. Cochrane had already 
I arrived with main party No. 1. 

PRESCOTT TO CAJIP APACHE. 

Leaving Prescott on the 10th of November, main party No. 2 took the road leading out 
through Agua Fria Valley, and crossing the Black Hills descended into the valley of the Verde 
River. The mountains limiting this valley are quite high, and very rugged. The eastern range 
may be considered as the edge of the vast elevated plateau already spoken ol^ and the summit 
once gained, the scene presented is nearly the same as that farther to the west. The prevalence 
of loose volcanic matter, scattered over the country, constituting what are termed Malpais Plains, 
renders the traversing of this section a very difficult matter during the seasons of rain ; the same 
irregular formation of mesa ridges is observed here as to the west of Bill Williams' Mountain. 

Sunset Crossing was reached on the 17th of November; just before reaching this point, and 
while on the summit of a slight rise in the mesa, the view in every direction showed only the 
vast rolling table-land, with occasional ridges, except toward San Francisco Mountain to the north, 
which appeared to rise up abruptly from the plain. 

The Colorado Chiquito was followed as far as Leroux Fork, where the road to Camp Apache 
leaves the Santa F^ road, and, turning to the south, breaks through the Mogollon Jlountains, 
reaching the valley of the Salt River and its tributaries. These mountains constitute the water- 
shed between the Little Colorado and Salt Rivers, and may be described, generally, as a low, roll- 
ing range, covered with loose volcanic matter, and heavily wooded with pine. The appearance of 
this range changes entirely when viewed from the south, as the elevation of the plateau to the 
north is so great that the descent from it to the lower country of the Salt River and tributaries, 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 69 

by the abrupt slopes peculiar to tbe southern limit of the Colorado Plateau, gives all the features 
that are observed in ordinary uiouutaiu ranges, so that, while viewed from near the Little Colorado, 
the Mogollon Mountains are merely heavily wooded, low, rolling hills ; from the south they appear 
to break out as a veritable range of high mountains. The White Jlouutains could be seen in the 
distance, but no near approach was made to them. 

At Camp Apache the Colorado plateau proper was left by my party, and thence to the Gila the 
trail leads over the Natanes mesa, and the Apache and Pinal ranges of mountains. The country 
to the southwest of the camp is rough, and broken by deep canons, which have their outlets in the 
8alt, or Prieto, Eiver; the latter is the name given to the Salt Eiver above the point where its course 
lies through the salt-beds that completely change its character. At the point where tbe trail crosses 
it, the river breaks through a deep canon, the southern bank being 1,950 feet above the water ; reach- 
ing the summit, a broad, rolling plateau is seen, which is a continuation of the Natanes Mountains. 
To the west, the irregular line of the opposite wall of an extensive box canon was readily dis- 
cerned, where the river's course is extremely tortuous. The walls appeared to be red sandstone ; 
the country beyond, to the west, was very much broken and cut up by vast canons, which headed 
oft' in the direction of the Sierra Ancha, and particularly near Sombrero Butte. The confusion 
created by nature was truly wonderful. 

The Natanes mesa is abroad rolling jjlateau, cut up by canons leading into the Salt River; 
these are in most places practically impassable and have to be headed. Descending, the trail leads 
down into the valley of the west fork of the San Carlos River, which heads within a few miles of 
the Salt River and empties into the Gila. Cro.ssiug this, a steep, rugged range, known as the Apache 
Mountains, was next crossed, and again we were in the country drained by the tributaries of 
the Salt River. 

The Apache Mountains form a short range, which extends from the mouth of Pinal Creek about 
twenty miles to the east, slightly turning to the north. The slopes on both sides are extremely 
steep, and the foot-hills terminate in long, gently sloping ridges, formed by the deep washes which 
run toward the branches of the San Carlos on the north and Pinal Greek on the south. 

In June last, while making a reconnaissance in this country with Captain Evan Miles, Twenty- 
first Infantry, the region where the mountains head, on Salt River, was visited ; the range was 
found to continue unbroken to within a few miles of the river, where a remarkably steep slope 
leads down to a broad, sandy wash, running off to the west, and reaching the river nearly due 
south of Sombrero Butte. Pinal Creek was followed up to where it heads in the mountains of that 
name, which were crossed by an extremely difficult trail leading across Papoose Canon on Pinto 
Creek. -The trail then leads through a rough, broken country, covered with granite rocks and 
bowlders, to Camp Pinal, (abandoned,) which is situated on the head-waters of Mineral Creek, a 
tributary of the Gila. Onward from this point, the evidences of volcanic agency were everywhere 
encountered. The caSons of Mineral Creek are 200 or 300 feet deep, and form almost perfect types, 
in places, of whrtt are known as "box caiions;" their walls are nearly vertical, and the rock in 
which they are formed is generally basalt, occurring in huge columns, while the surrounding coun- 
try is strewn with lava and immense bowlders. Everywhere the eye, at first glance, sees only broken, 
rocky ridges and deep gulches, which appear impassable by the ordinary means of transportation. 
After leaving the Pinal Mountains, which have a regularity of form quite remarkable, the ranges 
crossed were much broken, being cut up in all directions, with no regular trend. This charac- 
ter extends through to the Mazatzal Range, and in fact nearly to the Verde River. 

A curious point, called Weaver's Needle, is seen oft" to the west, and appears in the distance to 
be simply a huge rock, as its slopes are too steep for earth or even loose debris. 



70 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Superstition Mouutaiii, about tweutj' miles west, is remaiicable from tbe peculiar marking of 
the stratifleation by broad bauds of various colors, which extend for miles and maintain an almost 
perfect parallelism. The face of this mountain is formed in regular steps or terraces, often several 
hundred feet in height. 

The valley of the Gila is throngh a gravelly mesa, and varies in width from a few hundred yards 
to several miles. I have seen sections through this mesa cut by the water up near the mountains, 
and for thirty feet the sand, gravel, and rocks were arranged in regular order, the gravel and rocks 
being cemented together, so that the walls were nearly vertical. 

From Florence, where I first struck the Gila, the road to Tucson, via the Picacho, was taken. 
The so-called Picacho Pass is a broad opening between two separate ranges of volcanic mountains, 
having no relation to each other, except the accidental circumstance of having their axes in nearly 
the same line. The pass, without doubt," is merely an extension of the mesa. The mountains rise 
abruptly from the plain, having no foot-hills, and no signs are visible of anything like a connection 
between them having ever existed. The well at the station, eight miles from the Picacho, is nearly 
200 feet deep, and the proprietor informed me that the ^^■ater-vein very much resembled an under- 
ground river of considerable size. As this is near the old line marked down as the underground 
course of the Santa Cruz, it is quite likely that the well, by good fortune, has struck it. 

From this point the road passes over a vast plain, having small alkali flats scattered along it, 
until reaching the Santa Cruz Eiver, which it crosses, and follows to Tucson. The hills and mount- 
ains in the vicinity have a rugged, volcanic aspect, and, as a general thing, rise abruptly from the 
plain, with no foot-hills of any importance. 

ACJRICULTUKAX LANDS. 

The amount of agricultural land in Owen's River Valley is limited at present by the facilities for 
irrigation. In consequence of the river's course being in soft alkali soil through the juiddle and 
lowest part of the valley, its bed has sunk so far below the surface of the ground that its waters 
are not available for irrigation, except near its source. The small streams that rise high in the 
mountains, and flow down and across the valley, are thoroughly utilized, and it is to them that this 
region owes its importance, agriculturally speaking. Below the lake the valley is a barren desert, 
and, with but one or two exceptions, there is no land available for cultivation. 

Passing east, the same general character obtains until the Cottonwood Springs are reached, 
where the Indians cultivate a few acres, raising pumpkins, melons, and corn. No white man has 
deemed this place as affording suiticient prosi)ects of success to justify even his settling there for 
any time. About the Vegas Springs two ranches have been located recently, with good success to 
the settlers. Convsiderably more might be taken up were the supply of water more extensive. In 
addition to what was under cultivation at the Vegas ranch in 1SG9, about 80 acres may be men- 
tioned as having been planted during the last year, but the proprietors state that the sui)ply of 
water would be insufficient for any more. Peach-trees have been started here and are stated to 
produce finely. 

The amount of land available on the Muddy and Virgin Rivers has already been estimated by 
yourself, and it is probable that a considerable deduction for the extent actually under cultivation 
at present should be made, since the Moi inons, who were compelled to utilize e\'ery foot of ground 
that could be irrigated to support their surplus population, have abandoned the country. 

In the vicinity of Saint George there are about 2,000 acres under cultivation, all that can be 
irrigated, in fact. A project was started, some years ago, to change the course of the Virgin Eiver, 
and by carrying it, with a slight fall, higher up toward the table-lands, open up a vast extent of 



EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 71 

couutiy which, except iu certain seasons, is only useful on account of the scanty pasturage it affords. 
This scheme was baulked, after a vast expense had been iucurred, by difficulties encountered in 
tunneling through a small range of mountains. The grand ditch was to start thirty or forty miles 
above Saint George, and, if successful, would have increased by ten-fold the amount of country now 
under cultivation. 

There are quite a number of small, scattering towns near Saint George, but I am unable to 
state aught with regard to their facilities for agriculture; only those in the immediate vicinity are 
included in the above estimate. 

From Saint George to Chino Valley, north of Prescott, only a few Indian farms were seen; 
those may consist of from twenty to two huucked bills of corn, a few pumpkin-vines, melous, and 
squashes; they do not, as a general thing, average much more, and what they do produce is, for 
the most part, eaten before reacliing maturity. 

Ghiuo Valley has about 3,000 or 4,000 acres extending to near Prescott, and the principal 
product is corn ; potatoes and onions are raised to some extent. 

The next arable land met with was in the Agua Fria Valley, the princii)al ranch being that of 
Mr. Bowers. I should judge that from 1,500 to 2,000 acres are here cultivated. Corn is mainly 
the staple product. 

The Gila bottom can be cultivated throughout when the supply of water obtainable from the 
river is sufficiently great. A broad strip on each side of the river has beeu taken up by farmers, 
and from three miles above Florence to Maricopa Wells the country is being utilized; the principal 
product now is barley, in consequence of the large amount required at the various military posts 
throughout the country. At the Pima villages (Indian reservation) a considerable quantity of 
wheat is annually produced. At Gila Bend a large irrigation ditch, fifteeu miles in length, is being 
taken out, and, when completed, will open up a large tract of valuable land. At Phoenix, on the 
Salt Eiver, about 10,000 acres are under cultivation, and here companies have been formed to 
construct proper ditches, &c. The lands along the rivers produce very large crops of barley; and 
the markets are generally good. 

All, or nearly all, this region was formerly cultivated by a race which has entirely disappeared 
from the country. This is shown by the ruins of vast acequias located, iu some instances, where 
farmers of the present day have never thought of going. At Pha?nix, where the irrigation ditches 
are on a very extensive scale for modern enterprise, I have seen the ruins of a vast canal three or 
four miles outside of any that have yet been attempted iu this vicinity. A project is on foot, 
however, to open up the old acequia, and when this is done a large extent of couutry will be opened 
up, giving ample security for success to many more settlers. 

Growths of mesquit have sprung up since the former inhabitants left this couutry, iu some 
places forming impenetrable barriers for miles along the rivers; these having Ijceu cleared away, 
the grouud, in all cases, is found prepared for irrigation, perfectly stnootli, with the slopes properly 
arranged. 

With regard to the available land about Tucson I can state nothing, as my stay there was 
only for a few hours, and my opportunities for obtaining information on that subject conse<|uently 
limited. 

GKAZING-LANDS. 

The grass found in Owen's Eiver Valley is either that which grows in the bottom-lands or the 
scattered growth found in the foot-hills and mountains. The grass on bottom-lands that have beeu 
cultivated is of very fair quality, but generally is of an alkaline character, on account of the alkali 
matter in the soil. The bunch grass in the mountains is admirably adapted to animals getting 
but little or no erain. 



72 EXPLORATIOX IN NEVADA AND AEIZOXA. 

On the route traveled by myself through Southeru Califoruia but little grazing was met with 
until near Ivanpah and Cottonwood Springs. Here there are vast tracts covered with sand and 
bunch-grass; along the Muddy, particularly near West Point, there is a fine opportunity for an 
enterprising stock-raiser. 

About Saint George there Is but little grass, but at the head of the Grand Wash ample range 
for a large number of animals exists. 

The Colorado jtlateau, particularly that portion over which mj- route extended, is covered with 
a fine growth of untritions grasses, and in time, when the Indians are sufficiently subdued to permit 
of it, this whole country will afford as fine facilities for raising stock as any country I have ever 
visited on the Pacific slope. The supply of water is sufficient for vast herds, and not being scattered 
as in some localities, the stock could be easily managed. 

The whole country along my route of travel, from Prescott to Camp Pinal, was through grassy 
uplands of vast extent. What grass is found upon the mesas bordering the Gila bottom is very 
excellent in quality and stock thrive well upon it. The great difficulty is tliat the stock is rarely 
driven from the lowlands in consequence of the danger apprehended from the sudden raids of 
Indians who watch the herds from the mountains and drive them off with little or no difficulty. 
Pursuit generally avails little, and the only satisfaction the ow uers usually have is that caused by 
finding the remains of an extensive feast that has been served up at their expense. 

WOOD-LANDS. 

The valleys of Southern California and Nevada sustain only a scanty growth of greasewood, 
and in some localities sage-brush. Generally, however, in the Sierras and the more elevated 
mountains white-pine and scrub-cedar are found. This obtains in the Clarke Mountains at Ivanpah, 
and in the Spring Mountains at Potosi, and to the north. 

In the mountains about Saint George considerable pine is found, and at the head of the Grand 
AVash a dense growth of cedar. 

The Colorado plateau is densely wooded in some localities. Near the western limit thickets of 
scrub-cedar and some pine are found. The Black Forest, mentioned by Lieutenant Ives, is a 
dense growth of juniper. 

Near Bill Williams' Mountain the timber is principally pine with a few scrub-oaks. Along 
the road from Camp Verde to Camp Apache, especially near the edge of the Colorado plateau, 
heavy growths of pine and juniper are met Avith. 

Camp Apache is in a heavily wooded district. The Mogollon Mountains and the country near 
the east and west forks of White Mountain Elver are covered with pine and juniper. The Natanes 
mesa is also well wooded, and the Pinal Mountains, farther south ; the creek of that name is 
bordered with cottonwoods, and near its source a few oaks are found, and generally the mountain 
country north of the site of Camp Pinal is more or less heavily wooded with pine and juniper. 

In the country to the south and along the Gila, cottonwoods are found near the river, while 
mesquit and palo verde grow farther back, on the edge of the mesa ; beyond this only stray 
nu^squit and greasewood are noticed, and an occasional palo verde. 

JIINERAL LANDS AND MINES. 

The principal mines along the route were those in the Slate liange district and the Johnson 
district, Ivanpah, the mines on Lyux Creek, near Prescott, and the mines in the Black Hills, near 
Camp A'erde. 

The Slate Eange mines are so named from the mountains in which they are situated ; they 
have been deserted for several years in consequence of the failure of the company working them. 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA 70 

The principal and best yielding are the black ores, known as stromeyerite and stedefcldtite • the 
edges are narrow and between slate walls. One tunnel bad been rnn 500 feet, bnt failed to ^acb 

I Itf o, : ''"'""'^' '"' "'"'"«■ ^•^^'•'■"■*^' ^"^"'"^ --' ^-« ^-" --ted, bnt the 

esnlt obtained were not remnnerative, and, the fnnds of the company being soon exhansted 

the whole d,str,ct was abandoned. Some of the former owners now state tl^.t if the ^rn^i;^; 

expended n. working low-grade gold-rock bad been applied properly to the development of the 

h r leads the resnlt wonld have been different. With regard to this I cannot giv an opinion 

^^oZ^. "" '''""' '' "" ^' '" '"^^"^^' °^ ^"^^^ -^"^^ -« --«--t to e,m": 
The Johnson district is near Desert Springs, and all the leads discovered are composed of lead 
a copper. Notlung has been done toward developing the district ; no assays have been made 

"yonr Z^Z"' "'"' ''"' '■"'''■ '"'"' '''"'""'" '''"' •''^^"^•^'^ ^'"^ !'-« ^-- -^'^'^^' 
nece^,'""'"' "'"" '^^''"^ ^^^" "^'^ed and exannned by yonrselt; no report from n.e is 

The mines near Trescott, on Lynx Creek, are worked only for free gold. Bnt little has been 
done here except to prospect in a rnde manner. The old Mexican arrast^a is nsed, and with it b 

nXt:^ *° '*' '" '"• """ "' ''' ^'^"^ ^^^ '^^" '' '''' -'' ''-'■ ^"'^^^ "-^ ^ 
The vein-matter is very mnch disintegrated, mo.st of it cmmbling easily in the hand with a 
2^t pressnre Assays Juave been made several times by assayers at Presc^tt, bnt their resnlts 
we so nnsatisfactory that tlrey were not given. The whole bed of the creek has been dag over and 
m some places quite rich deposits of placer gCd have been found. The prevailing opinion is that 
the placer d.gg.ngs have all been worked over once, probably by the race of beings the record of 
whose existence consists now only in the curious ruins occasionally found and the fragments of 
pottery scattered over the country. 

cient^^walerTre^'K '"'f "v' "'""'' ''"*^ '""'' ^ ''^ ''''''''''''' ^^"^^ -•^' '^^^'^^ ^o obtain suffi- 
Theirir ; ''''' '"* onlyenongbto pnrcbase supplies with which to live. 

The Incbans have killed several nuners, and small parties are consenuently deterred fron. locating 
he. Nearly all the creeks and ravines near Lynx Creek show gold in small quant.ties, not 
b en t';, t'T""' *' T" "'' ''*"""" ''"''''''''' '' ''' i-angnrated ; and the few n.ills that have 
these wlrt,"" •"•''' ^"' '"" ''''' '"■ '^^"^^ ^'"'^^- ^^^*^ ™^^™-'^ "-'tbods of working 
IwTv 'I o ' 77 ". ''"' '' ""'^ *^ ^^'^^' '''' *^^ '^"l^"'-^- «^' -ter is li.nited, and this wifl 

alwajs p,o^e a great drawback to anything like extensive operations. 

NATURAL HISTORY. 

tion of'' tt^'n ''T'TT' "' '''''■ "' '''''''''''' ''''"^ *^^ ^^««'^'"8 of the ri^•er to the termma- 
iTs^r! ''" '^^'"."'^ ^* ^^^-^^^ Througbont the season Mr. Bischoff was collector in natural 
histo, J . The specimens obtained by hi„. are very extensive, comprising n,any that are new. 

GEOLOGY. 

Gilbrr7^,!:r'' '""'T"'"" '" ^'«"ouwoods, and from Trnxton Springs to Prescott. Mr. G. K. 
Gdbert, chief geologist, accompanied my party as geologist. Mr. Marvine had charge of this depart- 
ment trom Prescott to Tucson. The reports of these gentlemen will, I understand, be given yii. 

MKTEOROLOGY. 

At all rendezvous camps hourly observations were taken, as follows: Barometric readings 
using cistern and aneroid barometers; wet and d.y IniH. thern.ometric readings were also tS;' 



74 EXPLORATION IX XETADA AND AEIZONA. 

the direction of the wind was also observed, and its force as determined with au aueinometer. The 
general record also included the character and amount of clouds, time of beginning and ending 
of rain and snow storms, and the amount of fall. Also such phenomena as would be included 
under the general head of meteorological data. 

At ordinary camps, observations were taken at 7 a. m., 2 p. m,, and !t p. m., or where the time 
of going into or breaking camp was such as to render this impossible, observations were taken 
upon arriving and upon leaving, and the hours noted. Observations were taken while on the march 
at the topographical stations with an aneroid, carefully compared with a cistern barometer. 

IVIEANS OF COJIMUNICATIOX, ROUTES FOR ROADS, ETC. 

The road from Independence to Desert Wells is the regular stage-route from Los Angeles to 
Owen's Eiver Valley. The one from Yisalia to Ivanpah is one over which but very little travel 
has ever passed. * 

Burnt Eock Caiion will have to be very much improved by lessening the grade, which can 
only be accomplished by blasting out the solid rock, before heavily-loaded wagons can attempt 
this route with any prospect of being able to get through. 

The bottom of the Amargosa is impassable except after the hot weather has dried up the 
soft alkali mud; this limits the availability of this route to a very few months in the year. At 
other times the trail through the sand-hills to the south would be the only course that could be 
taken. From this point to Ivanpah, the heavy sand in places will always be a gi'eat drawback, 
but need not be considered as closing the route. Nearly every road in Southern California and 
Nevada may be described as very good or very bad; the former obtains wlien traversing the gravel 
mesas, and the latter when following up the sandy washes or in crossing, in wet weather, the 
numerous alkali flats in this region. The road from the Cottonwoods to Saint George is no excep- 
tion to this rule, and the vast amount of freight that has been transported over the old Salt Lake 
road, from Los Angeles to interior Utah, is sufficient proof of the availability of this route. 

To establish a road from Saint George south to the Ute crossing for heavy wagons would require 
considerable labor; first, in getting over the mountains just south of the Tirgin where the grades 
are remarkably steep and rocky ; and again to get out of the Grand Wash and into the smaller one 
which reaches the river two miles below the Ute crossing. The road, to be available, would have 
to leave the Grand Wash, as at its mouth the laudmgon the opposite side of the river is not practi- 
cable. 

From the river to Truxtou Springs there woidd be but little difficulty encountered, and that only 
in ascending the plateau beyond Tin-na-kah Springs, and in descending the mountains into the 
wash leading into Truxton. From here a regular road leads down to the south, striking the Mohave 
and Prescott road near the Cottonwoods, five miles west of old Camp Willow Gi'ove. 

The route from Yerde to Camp Apache is traveled at all times except when blocked by the 
snow in winter. 

During the rainy season the Malpais region from Beaver Creek over the mountains is very 
heavy, and only lightly-loaded teams can get through without encountering considerable difficulty. 

There has been no feasible route found from Camp Apache to Tucson via Camp Pinal, except 
for pack-trains. 

INDIANS. 

After leaving Owen's Eiver Yalley no Indians were seen until Ivani)ah was reached ; here there 
are quite a number, who, for the most part, are employed by the miners to carry water to the mines, 
This idea of labor is not applicable to the men, as they as a general thing are perfectly contented 



EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 75 

to eujoy the fiuit.s of the labors of their squaws; some few, however, wlio have been for a loug 
time with the whites, work at times, but it is safe to state only wlieii compelled by hunger They 
belong to tlie tribe of Pi-Utes, or Pah-Utes, as do also the Indians at Cottonwood Springs, Vegas 
along the ilu.ldy, and at Saiut George. At present those at Ivanpah are perfectly harmless but 
only from realizing the superiority of the whites over them. Two years ago, when the mining c'amp 
was occupied by only a few men, the majority having gone to Visalia and Los Angeles for provis 
ions, they entered the town and compelled the few people left behind to cook for them what little 
m the way of provisions was left. Fortunately the wagons arrived while this was going on, and the 
Indians were driven off; they returned in a few days, however, and asked for food. At the time I 
passed through I should judge there were nearly one hundred in all encamped about Ivanpah. 

At Cottonwood Springs and at Las Vegas there are quite a large number, who move backward 
and forward between the two places, according to their foncy. They have small farms or gardens 
and besides the corn, pumpkins, melons, &c., raised by themselves, obtain scantv supplies from the 
Vegas ranches for what little work they do. Occasionally they commit some depredation, but the 
prompt and severe punishment they always receive from the whites, when found out, as a general 
thing keeps them quiet. I should estimate that these met with at Cottonwood Springs and Las 
Vegas would number about two hundred. Tliey lead a life of perfect indolence, with a few excep- 
tions, and seem to prefer their present precarious mode of living to one the security of which 
must depend upon their own exertions and labors. 

But little change has taken place among the Indians along the Muddy, except that, not feeling 
the restraint formerly put upon them by the presence of the Mormons, they are now extremely impu" 
dent and bold. They are great beggars, and on several occasions strongly hinted their intentions 
of taking what they wanted if their demands were not complied with; this, however, was never 
attempted, and I think it only requires the presence of live or six determined men to keep them 
at a respectful distance. They are well supplied, and the facilities afforded them for raising grain 
are not equaled by those of any other band in this portionof Nevada. 

The Indians at Saint George are quiet and peaceable, many of them working regularly for the 
Mormons. Long and continued association with the whites has accomplished this perfect change 
in their character. It was observed, however, that the converts had generally been raised from 
infancy away from immediate contact with their own people. Many of the Indians referred 
to have horses and ponies, and all are usually well clothed. 

At Tin-na-kah Spring a deserted rancheria with a small garden was seen, but no Indians were 
met until Canon Springs were reached ; these belonged to the Hualapais tribe, and seemed very 
much frightened at seeing us. They had all left their rancherias when we came up, and were out 
in the hills; they came in after awhile and began begging. Between Tin-na-kah and the cross- 
ing of New River, several broad, well-beaten trails were seen, all seeming to converge toward some 
point on New River, near the Colorado. I afterward learned that this locality was formerly a great 
hiding-place for the Hualapais, when hard pushed during the war which resulted in their being par- 
tially brought to terms, so much so, in fact, that many of them now submit to receiving froL the 
Government, as gifts, that which they formerly insisted upon taking in their own way. 

The nualapais at Truxton Springs are not so wild as those seen at Canon Springs. They nearly 
all are fed at Beale Springs by the Government, and are consequently more accustomed to the 
sight of white men. I can give no estimate of their number, as they were coming and going all the 
time we were there. 

To the east, in the vicinity of Diamond Creek, a small band was met with, known as the 
Scviches. They arc a finely developed race, bold and warlike, and regard the approach of the white 



76 EXPLOEATIOX I^; 2s^EYADA AXD AEIZO:S^A. 

mau into their teiiitoiy witla jealous distrust. They always left their raucherias as we approaclied 
aud hid themselves iu the hills ; they would afterward come suddenly iuto camp, aud, although man- 
ifestiug a seemingly great desire to shako hands with every one, would evince their doubts by 
always askiug what we wanted, coupling with this question a rather peremptory request for tobacco. 
These ludiaus have gardens at Peach Spring and at the head of Diamond Creek. Their country 
is well su2>plied with game, and they all appeared capable of taking care of themselves. They 
did not allow the squaws to come iu sight at all. 

No Indians were seen again until reaching Camp ^'erde, although tliroughout Chino and Agua 
Fria Valley they fre(pu'ntly commit depredations. The ranchmen always take their riHes with 
them ; and it is a common occurrence for herders to be picked off, or men shot, while at work in 
the fields. The Apache-Mohaves roam throngii this region, and their country extends east to the 
mountains beyond the Verde Elver. At the post of that name several hundred were being fed. 
Quite a large number were found at Beaver Creek, and although then en route to the post to get 
their five days' allowance, showed great insolence to a small advanced guard that preceded the 
party. I have since learned that these Indians have all left the reservation. 

At Camp Apache nearly twelve hundred were being fed, and seemed peaceable and well con- 
tented. Last May, however, they drove off the herds, and for a long time remained away from the 
post. These Indians belong to the Coyotero, or White Mountain Apache tribe, and have committed 
many depredations in this country, and even as far south as the roads leading ont from Tucson. 

The next tribe to the south are the Einal Apaches, who live in the country about the Pinal 
Mountains. Xoue of them were seen ; they are very wild and warlike, refusing to go upon reserva- 
tions or have any communication whatever with white men. Their country is very rough, and 
scouting parties encounter great difficulties iu hunting them. 

The general character of the Apache Indians is too well understood to require any further 
mention from me than that my experience in their country leads me to conclude that their blood- 
thirsty nature has not been overdrawn. In time, perhaps, civilizing influences might render 
them less wild and barbarous than they now are; but this change I do not consider as likely to 
happen except iu the case of those taken at an early age from their own people. 

In conclusion, I would express my indebtedness to the different assistants who were with me 
for their co-operation and valuable aid in bringing the labors of the season to so successful a 
termination. 

Eespectfully submitted. 

DANIEL W. LOCK^VOOD, 

First Lieutenant of Engineers. 

Lieutenant Geo. M. Wheelee, 

Corjhs of 3n(iinecr.s. 



APPENDIX B. 

Report of Second Lieutenant D. A. Lylc, Second United States Artillery. 

Ukited States Engineer Ofpice, 
Explorations in Nevada and Arizona, 

WasJiingfon, I). C, March 5, 1872. 
Sir : In compliance with your letter of instructions, dated February 15, 1872, I have the 
honor to submit the following preliminary report : 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 77 

I assumed .conimaud ut' the escort, a detachment of twenty-live meu from Troop I, Third 
United States Cavalry, and also of main party No. 2 of the expedition, by virtue of the foll(jwing 
orders : 

Special Field Orders ) United (Staies Engineer Oi fice, 

No. in.— Extract. ^ Explokations in Nevada .usd Arizona, 

Camp near Belmniit, Xivadn, June 23, 1871. 

I. Second Lieiiteuaut D. A. Lylc, Second United States Artillery, having reported in obedience to paragraph I, 
Special Orders No. 98, Headquarters Military Division of the Pacific, is hereby jilaced in command of the escort, and, 
nntil the arrival of First Lientenant D. W. Lockwood, Corps of Engineers, in charge of party No. 2 of the exploration. 

GEO. M. WHEELER, 
First Licidiiiaiit, Untied Stales Engineers, CommandiiKj Expedition. 

Special Field Orders \ United State.s Engineer Ofitce, 

No. KJ. S Explorations in Nevada and Arizona, 

Itendezrons Camp near Belmont, Xerada, Jnly 2, 1871. 

Main party No. 2 of the exploration, nnder conmiand of Second Lientenant D. A. Lylc, Second United Stales 

Artillery, will proceed at daylight to-morrow (Monday) morning, en ronle to Camp Independence, California, on the 

trnnli-line selected from this point to the rendezvous camp at the above-named station. He will be fnrnished with a 

copy of the letter of instructions from the Chief of Engineers of tlic 2?d of March, 1871, and will, in all respects, adhere 

thereto, conducting his party in the same manner as if it were a seiiarate expedition. Fifteen days will be allowed to 

reacli Camp Independence, and en route .special attention mnst be given to the examinations in the contiguous mining 

districts. 

He will be called npon for a report of his trip. 

By command of Lieutenant Wheeler. 

D. A. LYLE, 

Seeond Lieutenant, Second Jrtillern, Adjutant of lite Expedition. 

Accordingly, on the morning of the 3d of July, I left the rendezx'ous camp in Meadow Creek 
Canon, north of Belmont, Nevada, and set out npou the ninrcli 

FEOM BELMONT, NEVADA, TO CAJIP INDEPExNDENCE, CALIFORNIA. 

Following down Meadow Creek Canon for several miles we struck the stage-road from Austin 
to Belmont; thence crossing the Toquima Eange and Ralston Valley, in a southwesterly direction, 
we encamped at Cedar Springs (Baxter's Station) on west side of valley, having marched thirty 
and a (piarter miles. Here we found plenty of wood and good water, but very little grass. 

Ealston Valley is from eight to twelve miles wide, a sandy, gravelly, stony desert, with no 
vegetation except wild sage. At this point a wagon-road comes in from the southeast from Eeveille. 

The next day made a short march of eleven miles to Indian Springs. (San Antonio,) in Big 
Smoky Valley. Ilcre we found plenty of water, slightly brackish, little grass, and no wood except 
sage-brush. The route to this point was npon a wagon-road, from Belmont to San Antonio and 
Fish Lake Valley. The road from Cedar Springs lies over a low range, through an excellent pass, 
bordered with plenty of nut-pine and cedar, but no grass or water. There are two quartz-inills 
at this point, both lying idle; some arable laud, but natural facilities for irrigation are limited. If 
irrigated the soil would be productive. Jack rabl)its and mountain quail the only game seen. 

My orders being discretionary with regard to everything except time and general direction of 
line, I concluded to detach at this point a small topographical party, consisting of Acting Assistant 
Surgeon W. J. Hoflnian, United States Army, in charge, one to])ographer, two civilian assistants, 
with a packer, guide, and soldier, to visit San Antonio mining district, and follow down the west 
.side of the San Antonio Range, pushing their investigations to the east and southeast, and passing 
to the east of Lone Mountains to Jloutezuma; then crossing the mountains, after visiting the 



78 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Moutezuiua mines and entering Clayton Valley, this party was to join the main party at Silver 
Peak, while myself with the latter party crossed the Smoky Valley Desert to the west and southwest 
of Lone Mountains, via Desert Wells, where, instead of crossing the low summit of the Toyabe 
Range to the westward into Fish Lake Valley, as previously intended, we would move southeasterly 
into Clayton Valley to Silver Peak, iu order to facilitate the junction of the detaclied side party, 
presuming that the topograpliical and physical results would be more fertile on this line than they 
could possibly be Ijy crossing directly into Fish Lake Valley to the north of Red Mountains. This 
presumption was fully sustained by subsecpient results. 

Ou the oth the maiii party crossed this desert, reaching Desert Wells at 5 ji. m., having made 
thirty-two miles, very hot and dusty, both men and animals suffering severely from thirst, the 
result of drinking brackish water at Indian Springs. Here we found three springs filled with slimy 
mud, from which we could get no water. About half a mile to the northeast was a large hole con- 
taining a few gallons of water. 

We concluded to bivouac here for a few hours to rest and feed the animals preparatorj- to 
making a nigLt march to Silver Peak, twenty-five miles distant. By dint of considerable digging, 
at which we all took turns, we procured enough water to^supply our wants and those of the animals 
partiallj', though it was very brackish and alkaline. 

The country traversed this day was a sandy desert, covered with wild sage, and toward the 
lower end of the valley interspersed with hard, white alkali flats, destitute of vegetation. Jack 
rabbits, lizards, and beetles were the only specimens of animated nature seen. Owing to the cloudi- 
ness of the weather and the darkness it was not until 2 o'clock a. m. that we resumed our march to 
the southeast, and skirting for several miles an alkali lake, (dry,) some twelve miles long and fi'om 
one to six miles wide, we passed up a rocky wash and crossed a low ridge or divide connecting Red 
Mountain Range with Lone Mountains. This ridge was comiiosed of volcanic remains — lava flows, 
extinct volcanoes, volcanic ashes, scoria, and basalt; native sulphur and alum being also met with. 

Entering Clayton Valley we passed a very perfect volcanic cone of recent date, but now extiuct, 
and striking a salt marsh, twelve to fifteen miles long and from four to eight miles wide. Me arrived 
at Silver Peak. Here is a cluster of saline springs, mostly warm, and of various degrees of satura- 
tion, one of which was constantly boiling; the waters were impregnated with salt, lime, borax, and 
sulphur. Another very remarkable spring was one out in the salt mar.sh about half a mile, which 
was nearly fresh, and the water quite cold. The white surface of this marsh was broken by two or 
three rocky huftcs, upon which trilobites and other fossils were found ; toward the lower part of 
the Aalley were shifting sand-hills. 

Here we remained till the Stli of July, recuperating ourselves and animals, awaiting the arrival 
of Dr. Hoffman and party. This interval was devoted to investigations of a geographical, geologi- 
cal, and mineralogical nature. Astronomical and meteorological observations were also made. I 
vi-sited the mines in the Silver Peak and Red Mountain mining districts, which are owned by the 
Silver Peak and Red Mountain Gold and Silver Mining Company, who have a 30 stamp gold-mill 
at this point. For the details regarding these mines 1 would respectfully invite your attention 
to my report on "Mines and mining districts,"' ap[)eiided and marked A. 

Clayton Valley is a complete interior basin, being surrounded on all sides by mountains. It is 
about eighteen or twenty miles long, and from eight to fifteen miles wide, the longer axis being 
nearly north and south. There is plenty of grass isi the vicinity of the springs, but poor in quality, 
and no wood nearer than the summit of the main ridge, about ten miles from the mill. 

Upon taking a cursory view of the topographical features of the country to the south and south- 
east from a peak near our camp, and foreseeing that the farther my line of topography extended 



EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 79 

in that direction, toward what was kuowu as the "head of the Auiargosa," the positiou of which 
point was very indefiuite and mythical, the greater would be the probability of my forniiug a junc- 
tion with your line, without serious difficulty on my outward march from Gamp Independence to 
meet you subsequent to this time. 

Dr. Hoffman and party having arrived on the 8th, the next day I ordered him witli the same 
party to cross Clayton Valley in a southeasterly direction, cross the Montezuma Eauge into Alida 
Yalley, moving south and southeasterly down that valley to Gold Mountain, visiting the mines 
there, and swing around the Palmetto Mountains to the westward, examining those mines, and 
thence to rejoin me in Fish Lake Valley. 

I directed the chief topographer, Mr. Nell, to make a very careful survey of the country thus 
traversed, to fix as many points as possible to the south and southeast of Gold Mountain, and to 
collect every item of topographical and geographical information he could obtain in regard to that 
terra Incognita. This he did with gre.at ability and judgment, and to my entire satisfaction. Tlie 
knowledge thus obtained was afterward of the greatest service. 

On the 10th we crossed the Red Mountain Range to the north of Red Mountain and Silver 
Peak, the two most noted peaks of this range, and camped at Red jMountain Spring, near the foot 
of the former peak, on the western slope, having made a short march of eleven and three-fourths 
miles. From this point myself and a small party made the ascent of those peaks and took barome- 
trical observations. The assistant topographer, Mr. Klett, also toolc advantage of this to gain an 
extended view of the country. 

The next day the party moved to near Fish Lake, a small body of tepid water, a few rods in 
extent, in Fish Lake Valley, a distance of nineteen miles. 

There is pretty good grazing- in the Red Mountain Range, and plenty of timber for fuel on the 
mountain ridge and western foot-hills. Abundance of excellent water is found at three points on 
the western slope, at Red Mountain, Mamie, and Cave Springs. It is said that Mamie Spring has 
only been running about two years. 

Red Mountain is of volcanic origin, as is also Silver Peak. These two peaks are about three 
miles apart and joined by a sharp, comb like ridge. The western foot-hills are of sedimentary 
origin. 

From Fish Lake Valley to Camp Independence there is nothing new of topographical impor- 
tance, as our roirte lay sensibly along an area surveyed by Professor "Whitney in his able geological 
survey of the State of California. 

At Fish Lake Dr. Hoffman and party joined, returning from Gold Mountain. His report is 
appended, marked C, and he was immediately detached to make a side trip to the northward via 
Columbus, thence, crossing the White Mountains to McBride's ranch, he was to follow down Owen's 
River and valley to the rendezvous camp at Camp Independence examining the mines and mining 
districts on his route. His report of this trip is appended hereto, marked 1). 

There are several ranches in Fish Lake \'alley; hay, barley, oats, and potatoes being pro- 
duced in abundance. Irrigation is necessary. Near the south end of the valley is Piper's ranch, 
the most important one, perhaps, in the valley, several hundred acres being under cultivation, 
and irrigated by the waters of Cottonwood Creek. Quite a large area could be rendered produc- 
tive by a judicious use of the water from small creeks issuing from the White Mountains, which 
are soon lost in the saud. A good wagon-road connects Piper's ranch with Palmetto, and another 
with Deep Spring Valley. 

From Fish Lake we marched to Piper's ranch, twenty-two miles, thence crossing a low range 
through a good pass, and passed down the eastern side of Deep Spring Valley, a small interior 



80 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

basin aliout ten miles long by four or live miles wide, inclosed by two spurs of the White Mountains, 
which fork at the upper end of the valley and join again at the lower end, producing this unique 
basin. Three small lakes, a salt marsh, and several springs, some of the latter being sulphur 
springs, are situated at the southern extremity of the valley. 

Wyoming Creek rises in the mountains to the northwest and running southeast for four or five 
miles sinks in the sand. Plenty of water and good grass at lower extremity of this valley, but no 
wood. The remainder of the valley is covered with sagebrush, growing in a deep, sandy soil. 

From Deep Spring we crossed the AVhite Mountains into Owen's Kiver Valley through a very 
good natural pass, but which, at two points, is impracticable for wagons. A wagon-road is being 
constructed from Owen's River up the western slope, which will descend into Deep Spring Valley by 
a canon to the north of the one by which we ascended. Plenty of wood lor fuel on and near the 
summit. Distance to Owen's River about twenty-two miles. 

We crossed the river at a ford above and near Big Pine Creek, which is a very good one when 
the river is not too high. There are several ranches here on Big Pine Creek, but a great deal 
more laud could be irrigated and reclaimed, as the supply of water in this creek is exceedingly 
abundant and excellent, and has a good deal of fall. 

At this point I left my train to follow me on next day, and pushed forward to Camp Indepen- 
dence, about twenty-eight miles distant, where it also arrived the 18th, at 10.30 a. m. Here I 
immediately established an astronomical and meteorological station, and placed Mr. Austin, the 
astronomer, in charge. Mr. A. R. Marviue reporting here tome, was assigned as assistant to Mr. 
Austin, as previously directed by you. 

FROM CAMP INDEPENDENCE TO GOLD ]\IOUNTAIN AND RETURN. 

Immediately upon my arrival at Camp Independence I fitted out a small party of picked men 
and carefully selected animals, to run a reconnaissance line to what was known as the head of the 
Amargosa. The object of this line was to determine whether or not a passage could be found directly 
to the eastward over the sterile deserts and mountains intervening between the Amargosa and 
Owen's Rivers that was practicable for a large train of men and animals ; to procure data for con- 
structing an accurate topographical map of that unknown area; to make collections in natural 
history, mineralogy, and geology; and, lastly, to form a junction, if possible, with yonr line, and, if 
a practicable route was discovered, to lead your large train to our rendezvous camp in Owen's 
River Valley. This party consisted of one topographer, two ciNllian assistants, two soldiers, a 
guide, a packer, an Indian, and myself, with four pack-mules. 

Before starting I could get no definite information concerning the country to be traversed, 
and from every quarter received the most discouraging accounts of the dangers attending such 
a trip through a country entirely destitute of water, as far as known, after crossing the Inyo 
Range. Not deterred by these unfavorable reports, I was enabled to take the field again within 
three days after my arrival, with my animals re-shod, and the party siip])lied with forage and 
rations. 

I would heri' state that 1 am deeply indebted to Major H. C. Egbert, caiitain Twelfth Infantry, 
commanding post of Camp Independence, and to Lieutenant W. E. Dove, Twelfth Infantry, acting 
assistant quartermaster at that post, for their prompt and energetic co operation, by placing all 
the resources of the post at my di-sjiosal, and lending me their earnest assistance. 

About noon, July 2] , we left camp, and passing through the town of Independence, crossed 
Owen's River at Bend City, (now deserted,) and ascended the monntains through Mazourka Canon. 
Fifteen miles up we camped at an excellent spring; gi-ass and wood jilenty. Next day crossed 



EXPLORATION IN NEt^ADA AND ARIZONA. 81 

the range and camped in a deep, rugged canon filled with blocks of granite, and very narrow, which 
we called Wheeler's Caiion. Here there was plenty of wood and water, but very little grass. 
Below us, and to the southward, lay Salinas Valley, a small interior basin, about twelve miles 
long, and from five to eight miles wide, containing salt-beds near its southern extremity. Mr. 
Hahn, the guide, now requested us to remain in camp one day while he would go in advance and 
see if there was enough water for the party at Grape-Yiue Spring, which, he said, was about thirty- 
five or, perhaps, forty miles distant. He said he knew the route, and was positive we could reach 
that point in one day's march ; but when questioned in regard to the locality of the pass in the 
opi)osite range, he gave evasive answers, nor could he give any definite information in regard to 
the character of the country to be traversed. 

From several previous interviews I had held with him in regard to this country, I had grave 
doubts as to whether he knew the country or not; these doubts were now painfnlly confirmed. 
Mr. Hahn asserted positively that he could go to Grape-Vine and return the same night by 10 p. 
m. I concluded to remain in camp one day and let him go in advance, directing him to be back by 
2 a. m. the morning following, but that I should start on his trail at 5 a. m. whether he returned 
or not. I ordered Koehler and the Indian, "Sam," to go with him to Grape-Vine Spring and re- 
main there, making collections iu natmal history till I came up. 

July 2-1, at 5 a. m., Hahn not returning, I set out upon his trail to the northeast, hoping to 
meet him. This trail led over a rocky, volcanic divide, separating Salinas from Termination 
Valley, which latter was some fifteen or twenty miles long, having heavy sand-hills, over which 
the trail led, the mules sinking knee-deep at every step. The day was excessively hot. The wind, 
passing over the heated sand-hills, came in scorching gusts, rendering our sufFerings intense and 
our thirst almost intolerable, while the incessant glare of the sun upon tiie white sand nearly 
blinded us and caused great ijain in our eyes and heads after the fir.st few hours. At 4 p. m. we 
struck the slope leading up to the foot-hills, covered with sharp rocks and jasper flints. By o p. m. 
we were brought to a halt halfway up a sharp peak, over which the trail led, by the mules becom- 
ing so weak as to be unable to proceed farther. I ascended the peak alone on foot to get a view 
of the country beyond. Once up, I saw no hope of getting my animals, in their then weak and 
exhausted state, over the summit at this point, so steep and rocky were the mountains. Beyond, 
range after range of black ridges, their wall-like sides banded with white, red, and yellow strata, 
reared their frowning crests, and seemed to interpose an impassable barrier to farther progress. 
I returned to my anxious followers and we descended in silence and tried two or three canons, 
but, after penetrating a short distance in each, were comiielled to turn back by vertical walls of 
rock that effectually prevented our ascent. Worn out and almost exhausted, we bivouacked on 
the heated, flinty surface to get a little rest ; made some coffee, our only fuel being some small 
bushes, and ate a little hard-tack. We dared not eat any meat for fear of increasing our thirst. I 
was surprised at the rapidity with which the mules weakened and succumbed to fatigue upon 
this day's march. We saw nothing of Hahn, and I concluded that he had found the country worse 
than he anticipated, and had, no doubt, deserted us ; or, thinking, perhaps, we would not attempt 
to follow his trail with pack-mules over such a country, had gone on to Join you. Twenty-four 
miles were made this day. Most of the distance we had to march on foot, owing to the weakness 
of our animals. The soles of my shoes had completely worn out, and' the others were but little 
better off. Fortunately, I had apairt)f slippers with me, which protected ijpy already bleeding 
and lacerated feet a little at least. 

Next morning I started off to southward along the foot-hills, to make one last endeavor to find a 
pass through which I could penetrate this range into the valley I knew must lie beyond. Happily 
11 



82 EXPLOEATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

I found a cauon which bade fair to lead us to the summit without serious obstacle. This we called 
Last Hope Caiion. We reached the summit without difficultj-, and here fouud the trails of the three 
animals ridden by Koehler, Hahu, and the ludian. It was at or near this point that Koehler after- 
ward told me he had last seen Hahn about 8 p. m., at which time Hahn turned and left him without 
saying a word, and that he called to him but received no answer, and supposed he had gone back 
to meet me. Hahn must have followed after Koehler and the ludian that night, for we found the 
three trails lower down aud near the mouth of the caiion. This trail we followed eagerly down a 
deep caiion, but scarcely had we proceeded half a mile ere we came upon one of those falls of tilted 
slate which so often impede or prevent one's progress in these ca&ons. "With considerable loss of 
time we succeeded in reaching the arroyo below by climbing a bluff and going down a steej) incline 
of loose rocks and soil, but hardly half a mile more had been traversed before we came upon 
another fall, about 30 feet high. This barrier appeared at lirst sight to be impossible to surmount 
with our loaded pack-mules, but to return was hopeless, for the mules were too weak to climb 
back around the first fall. Our situation was indeed critical. Here we drank the last drop of 
water that we had husbanded carefully, amounting to only a few swallows each. This appeared 
rather to increase than alleviate our burning thirst. The party looked at me in silence till I gave 
the order for unpacking aud loweriug the cargoes with lash-ropes over the precipice. This was 
done cheerfully and without a murmur. With much labor, patience, and coaxing we got the mules 
to clamber up tCe cliffs and slide down into the wash below, without the loss of a single animal. 

I cannot speak in too high terms of the admirable courage and cheerful obedience of my little 
party during this trying day. Feeling little hope of meeting with water, we moved silently down 
for several miles, when suddenly a cry of " water" was heard from the man in front, who po'nt^d 
to a small green patch on the mountain-slope to the northwest. 

At the mouth of this caiiou— called Break Neck Caiion by the men— we left the trail of the 
men who had preceded us, they having turned off to the right, and made for the green spot over a 
perfect net-work of rocky rapines. The surface was completely covered with bi'oken volcanic 
rocks about the size of ordinary cobble-stones. About sundown we reached it, and found water 
sufficient for our wants by digging. Oar joy at this discovery knew no bounds. This we christened 
" Last Chance Spring." Distance made from last camp, nineteen miles. 

The next day, feeling very foot-sore and weak, though much refreshed, we started across the 
upper end of Death Valley, traveling over a gravelly, sandy desert to Gold Mountain, twenty-two 
and a half miles distant, reaching there about 4 p. m. About the middle of the valley we crossed 
a mule-track leading north toward Tule Canon ; this we thought to be the track of Hahn's mule. 

At Gold Mountain, finding two miners, I learned from them that I could not reach the Amar- 
gosa in less than three days' march, owing to the worn-out and lame condition of my animals. This 
would render me too late to meet you at that point according to our preconcerted arrangement. I 
prevailed upon Mr. T. J. Shaw, one of the miners, to take a fresh mule of his own and carry a 
message to you the next night. He did so, and returned the night following, bringing back your 
answer, which informed me of the critical condition of your party in regard to provisions, and also 
of the non-arrival of Hahn, the guide. 

This latter advice led me to suppose that he had deserted us" to our fate, and made for Tule 
Canon, where there was water. I immediately sent Mr. Shaw back to Grape- Vine to guide your 
train to Pigeon Spring, via Death Valley and Tule Caiion, while, with my party, I started for Fish 
Lake Valley to get supplies, and returned to Pigeon Spring, which we accomplished by 6 a. m. on 
the morning of the 2Sth, having been twenty hours in the saddle. That same day I went to the 
head of Death Valley to meet the train, but failing to make it out on the desert, returned, and had 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 83 

just laid dowu to obtain a little rest Trhen Mr. Shaw arrived with a note from Dr. Cochraue, who 
was in charge, saying that they had arrived in a very exhausted condition at Tule Spring, some 
eight or nine miles distant. I immediately saddled up, and taking some flour and barley, set out for 
that point, reaching there at 2.30 a. m. 

The next day I moved your train over the mountains to Pigeon Spring, where, killing u beef, 
and having plenty of wood, grass, and water, we enjoyed a good night's rest and the first hearty 
meal either party had had for several days. Thence, by easy marches, ^ia Piper's ranch and Deep 
Spring Valley, I reached the rendezvous camp. 

FKOM CAMP INDEPENDENCE TO COTTONWOOD SPEINGS, NEVADA. 

During the time that we lay in Independence I was engaged in fitting out and supplying the 
difi'erent parties with subsistence stores, preparatory to another forward movement, and in duties 
of a general executive nature. 

August 12, main party No. 1 left this camp and moved south through Independence and Lone 
Piue, crossing Owen's River and camping near its mouth after a march of twenty miles. At this 
point you left us, and passing via Cerro Gordo were going to run a reconnaissance line to the north 
of mine, and then join me in the Telescope Eauge. 

Our next march was to the east of Owen's Lake, some twelve miles, to a point below Swansea ; 
road very sandy ; short alkali grass, very poor in quality ; bad water, and no wood. "We then 
moved southeast to near Arab Springs, in the Coso Range, about sixteen miles. Hero we had 
plenty of wood and grass, but very little water, though plenty of water was found at a large spring, 
five miles distant, in east side of range. The next day we crossed a small, broken, desert valley, 
called Tortoise Valley, and camped twenty-five miles out, near Egan's Falls, in Darwin CaELon ; 
little wood, plenty of water, but no grass here. The spring here suddenly rises near the foot of a 
high bluff, and quite a little stream issues forth ; running a short distance, it is precipitated over 
several cascades, from 12 to 80 feet high, formed by slate ledges. The canon at this point, and for 
some distance below, was impracticable, being only a narrow gorge cut through the slate by the 
water. The formation of this range is chiefly granite, slate, and volcanic rocks, with large mineral 
deposits in Granite Mountains. From here we crossed a high mountain by a steep trail, and, pass- 
ing to the north and west of Granite Mountain, we regained Darwin Canon, and following it down 
we debouched from the Tortoise Eauge into Panamiut Desert, a sterile basin, utterly destitute of 
vegetation except a few thorny shrubs. This desert for some miles was sandy. Then crossing a 
large alkali flat, till near the eastern side, onr route lay over low volcanic mesas whose surfaces 
were torn up and washed into deep, rocky ravines by the terrific water-spouts which are of frequent 
occurrence in this section. The trail now was extremely rough and rocky, rendering traveling very 
difficult ; reaching the foot-hills we suddenly changed our direction trom southeast to northeast, and 
proceeded up Rose CaSon seven or eight miles to Rose Springs, about five miles northwest of Tele- 
scope Peak, on the western slope of Telescope Range, where we camped. The weather was 
extremelj' hot, men and animals suffering greatly from thirst and fatigue. 

Panamint Desert is between twenty and thirty miles in length, and from eight to eighteen 
miles wide, a desolate waste of sand, gravel, alkali flats, and low mesas, with shifting sand-hills 
near northern extremity. Horned rattlesnakes met with here. Telescope Eauge, to the eastward 
from where we entered the desert, presented that peculiar banded structure of bright colors, 
known among old prospectors as " calico ranges." 

Town's Pass lay to the north of our camp. At Rose Spring we had plenty of water, and near 
the head of the caiion, which was an open plateau, plenty of grass and wood. Here we lay for a 



84 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

few days to send a topographical paity to the top of Telescope Peak, and puisuaut to your verbal 
iustnictions I dispatched Mr. Charles King to Fnruace Creek, ou the east side of Death Valley, to 
seek a pass over the rauge aud across that valley, aud also to ascertain the amount of water there. 
This he succeeded iu doing with great judgment. I also dispatched Mr. Egan, the guide, who so 
kindly volunteered to lead us to this point, with two men to go to Cottonwood Cafion, some dis- 
tance up the range, there to meet aud conduct you to my camp. 

On the morning of August 19 he left them aud went ou ahead to the uorthward, up the west 
side of Death Valley, to find that canon, aud, having an excellent mule, was soon out of sight. 

They followed his trail till 11 a. m., aud found their mules failing so fast that they turned back 
to Marble Spring, a place they had passed the day before. After much suffering and fatigue they 
regained my camp. As Mr. Egan had appeared quite positive iu his knowledge of tlie location of 
the point designated to meet you, I had uot the slightest doubt but that he had reached the camp 
of the small party at that place; but to guard against any chances of his failure to reach that 
point, and iu case he should return to Marble Spring, I sent a man to the latter place with a 
note, advising him of our movement (should he uot find the broad trail of the main party) across 
Death Valley, and also sent rations to be left there for him. 

Upon this day you xejoined me aud assumed command of the party. As Mr. Egan could not 
have reached Cottonwood before you left, we concluded that he had joined them afterward. I 
had no apprehensions for his safety, because he seemed perfectly conversant with the country. How- 
ever, rations and a note were left for him at Eose Spring in ca.se he should return to that place. 
Several days after, when the side party from Cotton woods joined us at Ash Meadows, I learned 
that Mr. Egan had never joined them, and was supposed to have lost himself iu Death Valley. 
Intelligence has since been received that he was heard from iu Clarke District, near the Colorado. 

From Eose Spring to Ash Meadows, Nevada, my duties Avere chiefly of a military nature, hav- 
ing commaud of the escort, aud iu executive charge of the train under your immediate direction. 

The route between these two points lay, the tirst day, along aud over the Telescope Eauge to 
Death Valley Caiion ; the next, Death Valley was crossed at a point where it was some fifteen or 
eighteen miles wide. This crossing was made safely, a small side party being detached to take 
meteorological observations at the lowest part or sink of the ^•allcJ■, about teu miles to the rigid, 
and southward. We camped at Furnace Creek on the east side of the vallej-. Wood scarce, grass 
poor in quality, being short, alkali gi'ass, very enervating to animals; water plenty, coming from 
numerous warm springs. 

Two days' hard marching brought our worn-out traiu to Ash Meadows, where we fouud pleuty 
of excellent grass and water, the latter from warm springs. Very little wood here. To reach this 
point we had to cross the Funeral Mountains, a range quite high and steep, and the Amargosa 
Desert, through which, for miles, the dry bed of the river of that name meanders southward. At 
this poiut we lay for a few days while you i)ushed forward to the rendezvous camp and sent 
back forage, of which we stood in great need. I then moved southward and crossed a low range 
into another sandy aud gravelly desert, (Pah-rimi) Desert,) which extends south for miles, and skirts 
the Spring Mountain Eauge. This desert contains several beautiful little oases, the principal one 
being at Pah-rimi) Springs, at which point are located quite a number of Pah-Ute Indians, very 
friendly and quite intelligent. These Indians raise corn, melons, and squashes. Great quantities 
of wild grai>es were fouud around tliese springs. From here, another day's march brought us to 
Stump Spring, on the old California emigrant-road. This road we followed to the rendezvous camp 
at Cottouwood Springs, Nevada, crossing the Spring Mountain Eauge, through an excellent pass 
near Mountain Spring, where we fouud pleuty of wood, grass, and water. 



EXPLOEATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 35 

At Cottonwood Springs we lay for several days, procuriug supplies from Camp Mohave and 
Las Vegas. Here tlie river j.arty was detached to make the ascent of the Colorado l,y boat, and 
Lieutenant Lockwood placed in command of the land parties. 

FROM COTTONWOOD SPRINGS TO SAINT THOMAS, NEVADA. 

On the loth of September, Lieutenant Lockwood left this rendezvous camp for Las Ve^as 
tweuty-two. miles distant, and ordered me to follow with my party twenty-four hours later ^At 
Las Vegas we lay a day or two, awaiting the arrival of our supplies from Camp Mohave. 

On the 20th we started on the arduous march across the Vegas plains and mountains to the old 
California crossing of the Muddy, abont forty-five miles distant. This march was made at night 
Lieutenant Lockwood and party leading. I followed with main party No. 1 about an hour later' 
We arrived next morning at the crossing. The following day we moved down to Saint Thomas 
near the confluence of the Muddy with the A^rgin. 

At this point I was detached with a small topographical party to visit Salt Mountain, five 
miles south of Saint Thomas, and thence to proceed eastward across the Virgin Range to seek a 
point convenient to the crossing, for a rendezvous camp. The pass through this range is a very 
good one, practicable for wagons, though near the summit heavy sand was met with. The Mor 
nions had passed through it formerly with their light wagons. 

Two days' march brought us to Pah-Koon Springs, situated in a deep wash, which lies west of 
what the Mormons call the Grand Wash. The tract of country lying between the Virgin Ranoe and 
the SeA Itch Mountains to the eastward, and extending from near Saint George, Utah to the 
Colorado River, is a high volcanic mesa, cut by numerous caSons, very deep, but nearly all of which 
empty into the Grand Wash. Getting into these chasms once, it is almost impossible to get out for 
miles, the walls being high bluffs and nearly vertical. These canons, or arroyos, rise to the north- 
ward in large upland plateaus, densely covered with cedar, containing a good deal of grass, but 
very little water. ' 

Pah-Koon Springs are nine in number, all warm, with beds of quicksand beneath. The Indians 
have small patches of ground here which they irrigate and cultivate during the seasons they have 
Dopme-nuts. j <k^ 

From Pah-Koon Springs we marched northward for a day, a night, and portion of next day, 
up one of these deep canons, till we reached the elevated plateau covered with cedar, grass and 
Spanish bayonets, where we found a small spring afibrding only a few quarts of waier: thence 
crossing the Virgin Range and following down Rattlesnake Canon, we reached the Rio Virgin A 
march of eighteen miles in the bed of the river bronght us to Lieutenant Lockwood's camp " 

The formation was generally sandstone, overlapped by basaltic lava. The plateaus have a red 
soil, due, principally, to the disintegration of the bright-red sandstone 

The Mormons have a large stock-range here, there being sufficient water during most seasons. 

FROM SAINT GEORGE TO THE CROSSING OF THE COLORADO. 

October 1, Lientonant Lockwood, with Mr. Spencer, the guide, and two men, left our camp 
near Samt George, and started for the crossing at the month of the Big Caiion of the Colorado 
to make preliminary preparations for crossing that river, and left me in command of both land 
parties, with orders to follow as rapidly as possible. This I did, reaching Pah-Koon Springs on 
the evening of the 3d. It was intended to send a small topographical partv down the Grand 
Wash with orders to cross over and join me at Pah-Koon Springs, but, upon reflection, I concluded 
I could find a shorter, and perhaps better route, by going down the Grand Wash with the main 



86 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 

parties, and crossing the mesa to tlic eastward of uiy former line. The only difiaciilty I appre- 
hended was in not being able to descend the abrupt bluffs from the mesa into Pah-Koon Wash. 

The Mormons penetrated down tLe Grand Wash to the Colorado, with wagons, some years 
ago. We found no obstacle that could not easily be overcome, and after following the Grand 
Wash for about twelve miles, rose up on the mesa and bad an excellent road across it, which 
commanded a view to and beyond the Colorado. We had to enter this wash again lower down, 
following which for a few miles we crossed the mesa to the southwest, and found no difficvdty in 
getting off it and reaching Pah-Koon Springs. At this point we found orders left by Lieutenant 
Lockwood to lie over one day. 

Plenty of water, little grass, and no wood except mesquite, here. The next night I received an 
order from you, stating that you had comi^leted the junction with your river party, and ordering 
me to push forward as rapidly as possible tlie nest day, and try to arrive there in time to cross 
Lieutenant Lockwood's train the same day. 

A trail led from Pah-Koon Springs to the old Ute crossing, about twenty-eight miles iu 
length, passing water twice on the route; but learning that a very steep bluff had to be ascended 
from the Grand Wash, where we would have to unpack and take up half-loads at a time, whicli 
would cause great delay, I attempted to get on the mesa higher up the wash, and succeeded 
without difficulty. The route I took was much shorter, but very heavy and sandy in places, with 
several steep inclines, as my trail led over a succession of washes and ravines, running south- 
westerly into the Grand Wash. Striking the head of a caiion Avhich led almost direct to the 
crossing, we arrived there before sundown, and before 9 p. m. had everything crossed by the boats 
except the mides, which were swum over next morning. Lieutenant Lockwood superintended 
the crossing 'in person. 

The distance from this point to Truxtoii Springs was traversed iu four days, both main land 
parties moving together, with Lieutenant Lockwood in command. Arriving here, we found that 
our supplies had not reached this point from Camp Mohave. Lieutenant Lockwood immediately 
disi^atclied two Aiiuy wagons, belonging to the new escort, a detachment of Troop C, Third Cavalry, 
which we found encamped here, for tliem. These supplies came promptly to hand, thanks to the 
energy of Lieutenant C. P. Eagan, Twelfth Infantry, assistant commissary of subsistence at that 
post. I was sent with three men to Camp Hualapais, about eighty miles distant, for the mail and 
some additional supplies. 

FROM TRUXTON SPRINGS TO PRESCOTT, VIA CAMP DATE CREEK AND BRAD- 
SHAW MOUNTAINS. 

October 20 I was detached, with a small topographical party and a picked escort of fifteen 
men, to move in a southeasterly direction to Camp Date Creek, thence to go to Bradshaw Moun- 
tains, visiting the mining districts there, and move northward to Prescott, Arizona Territory. A 
few miles north of Truxton Springs I gained the mesa which is a continuation of the gi'and Colorado 
plateau, and made old Camp Willow Grove that night. The country from this point was almost 
entirely unknown ; our guide, Mr. Spencer, had been down to the Santa Maria once before, but we 
did not follow the trail he had before traveled, though we crossed it several times. 

The stretch of country lying between the Aquarius Mountains on the west, and the Junii)er 
Mountains on the east is, after the first twelve or fifteen miles south of AVillow Grove, which is 
very rough and broken, a high, rolling, grassy mesa, abounding in antelope and deer; having 
plenty of excellent water in the creeks which lie at the bottoms of deep ravines, called in that 
country " box canons," from their walls being so abrupt. These cailons arc from 100 to 1,200 fee.t 



EXPLOEATION m NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 37 

deep, with walls of volcanic rock, almost vertical, and after once reaching their beds it is an impos- 
sibility to get ont except at a very few points; this is especially the case toward the lower ends 
The creeks abound in excellent trout. 

Trout Creek is the principal tributary of the Big Sandy, rising near Aztec Pass, in the Juniper 
Mountains; flowing southwest, it drains a large scope of country south of Willow Cxrove and 
enters the Big Sandy, after passing a narrow, rocky gorge cut through the Aquarius Mountains 

To the south of Trout Creek is a low, rolling divide, or watershed, separating the waters of 
Big bandy from those of the Santa Maria. 

We crossed a number of these box canons in succession, near their heads, the only place we 
could cross them. Through the principal ones flowed Ah-ha-pook, Spencer's, Svcamore, and 
lavapais Creeks, all tributaries of the Santa Maria. Through this section we found small bands 
of Apache-Mohave Indians, and at Tavapais Creek rpiite a large band, well armed with rifles and 
well supplied with food. The head chief appeared quite friendly, but the young bucks looked upon 
us with no favorable eye. We had no trouble with them, however, and the next day crossed the 
sandy bed of the Santa Maria River, near trhe junction of its three forks, all of which were dry 
except in one a stagnant pool was found, in which tules were growing. , We then crossed a hi oh' 
granite range to the southeast, called the Santa Maria Range, into Date Creek Valley. This valley 
has a light, sandy soil, and contains considerable grass. The military post of Camp Date Creek 
IS situated on a low mesa, south of the creek. All the officers of the post generously extended to 
us their assistance, and the hospitalities of the camp. To the eastward lies Antelope Valley a 
nearly circular basin of high altitude, from which it is divided by a range of mountains, principal'ly 
granite. To the north and northeast lie Thompson, Skull, and Kirklaud Valleys. 

From Date Creek we crossed the range to the east, and camped one day in Antelope Valley 
From this point I sent my pack-train to Prescott, under the command of Sergeant T. J Moore 
Troop C, Third United States Cavalry, and next day crossed a low, rocky range to the eastward' 
covered with dense chaparral and entered Walnut Cxrove, a settlement on Hassvampa Creek' 
where we found cultivated farms. " ' 

Following down this valley, along a wagon-road, by a circuitous route we reached Minnehaha 
Flat, a densely timbered plateau on the west slope of the Bradshaw Mountains The next 
morning we reached Bradshaw City, about five miles farther east, by a steep mountain trail. 

This mining camp has an altitude of about 7,000 feet. After visiting the mines we proceeded 
north along this range, passing through the Tiger, Pine Grove, Bradshaw, and Turkey Creek 
minmg districts. The Bradshaw Range is densely timbered with excellent pine. Mineral deposits 
are found all along this range, but have not been developed. Plenty of water was found at Date 

Creek, in Antelope Valley, Walnut Grove, but very little in the Bradshaw Mountains or Turkey 
Creek. -^ 

FROM PRESCOTT, ARIZONA TERMTORY, TO TUCSON, ARIZONA TERRITORY, VIA 

Leaving Prescott, Arizona Territory, main party No. 1, commanded by yourself, proceeded to 
Camp Apache, via San Francisco Mountains, and through the Great Tonto Basin, arrivino- there 
November 25. We delayed at this point one day to obtain supplies, and from there proceeded by 
rapid, forced marches, to Camp Grant and Tucson, at which latter place the expedition was dis- 
banded and the field operations ceased. 

My duties during this trip were principally of a military character, being in command of the 
escort and in executive charge of the party. I also had charge of the meteorological observations, 
and assisted in the astronomical work. 



88 EXPLOEATION m NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

RECAPITULATION. 

The length of the recouuaissauce Hue surveyetl uuder my iiuiiiediate direction is nine hundred 
and eighteeu miles, embracing an area of 11,750 square miles ; this is iadepeudeut of the line and 
area included in the trip from Oweu's Late to the west side of Death Yalley, and from Ash Meadows 
to Cottonwood, Nevada. These lines were carefully measured with Cassella's field ti'ausits ; all 
important points ou both sides being established by triaugulation. The baselines used were the 
odometer measurements between the topographical stations, carefully reduced. Astronomical 
observations were taken at as many camps as practicable, to serve as checks for connecting the 
transit work. The distances from Belmont to Camp ludepeiulence, on both the main and side 
lines, were carefully measured with odometers, as also were those from Saint Thomas to Salt 
Mountain and return, from Saint Thomas to Saint George, Utah, aiid thence to the crossing of the 
Colorado. 

The distances from Truxton Springs to Prescott, Arizona Territory, via Camp Date Creek and 
Bradshaw Mountains, were estimated. 

Meteorological observations were taken at every camp, and hourly stations established at all 
rendezvous camps. Observations with aneroid barometers were taken at every topographical 
station and camp, and carefully compared, daily, with cistern barometers, thereby furnishing data 
for determining a profile of the route traversed. 

VALLEYS. 

The valleys passed through were twenty-three in number, mostly north and south, viz : ]Monitor, 
Ralston, Big Smoky, Clayton, Fish Lake, Deep Spring, Alida, Palmetto, Owen's River, Salinas, 
Termination, Death, Tortoise, Panamint, Amargosa, Pah-rimp, the Grand Wash and tributaries, 
Trout Creek Basin, Santa Maria Basin, Date Creek, Antelope, Walnut Grove, and Turkey Creek. 

:mountains. 

The principal ranges were the Toqnima, Toyabe, San Antonio, Ijoue Mountain, Red Mountain, 
Montezuma, Palmetto, Green Mountain, Gold Mountain, White Mountain, Inyo, Telescope, Coso, 
Tortoise, Funeral, Spring Mountain, Virgin, Juniper, Aquarius, Santa Maria, Antelope, and 
Bradshaw. 

INDIANS. 

The various tribes encountered were the Shoshones, Pah-Utes, Owen's River Indians. Se- 
Vitch, See-Yints, Hualapais, and Yavapais, or Apache-Mohaves. 

The Shoshones were scattered sparsely from Belmont to Fish Lake Valley, in the Toyabe, Red, 
and Montezuma Mountains. A small band was seen east of Palmetto, about Tnle Springs. 

The Pah-Utes were found at Piper's ranch, in the White Mountains and Deep Spring Yalley, 
and afterward in considerable numbers around Pah-rimp Springs, Cotton woods, and Las Vegas, 
Nevada. 

The Oweu's River Indians are scattered along that valley, but of their numbers I could get no 
definite idea. They are not very numerous. 

The Se-Vitches are few iu number and live in the mountains iidjacent to the Grand Wash and 
its tributaries. They have little communication with the whites. 

The Hualapais, formerly a numerous and warlike tribe, are now much reduced in numbers, and 
are at peace with the whites. They are found in the Hualapais and Aquarius Mountains, and 
around Truxton, Beale's, and Peacock's Springs, and on the Big Sandy. 



EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA 39 

rem::.'""- "°"™"' ^ "--- '^'»-"- "»■■ ~. *»-- ' -"a :sr:^ 

Most of these Indians lead a precarious life, siibsistiug npou pine-nuts the f.uit nf fi.. - 

luespiings. -Ihe^' are quite Intel ffeut, and were rprvfr;.Mifn,r t- ^ ■ , 

them -1,1,1 cv,.i,n;f r h -i"" ^le very tiiendly. \ irtue is almost unknown amona- 

tueiu, and sjphihtic diseases very common. . " 

The Apache-Mohaves were by far the most superior Indians met with, being well armed well 

u.pped with food and clothing and blankets. Their country abounds in deer .ud ntC - 

ua^Ueir wigwams were found large stores of dried venison, grass-seed, trom which ^ y m^ke 

h i: itrv "^T^r 1 :: r? " ^' ''^^ ^^'^ '^^ '-'^^ '"■''■ ''-' ^™^^ ^^ ^-^ ^^-^^'-^ - 

ti uly wondeiful. The women are often beautiful, and, as a class, are strictl v chaste and virtuous 

y devia lon ..m the path of rectitude being visited by the summary punishment of ut ino tf 

the nose, from their jealous lords and masters. tuuun^ oti 

AGEICULTURAL LANDS 

pe^t^r'^^lh" ^Tf' ''^ '"''" ^"^* '' '" ""'-'^ ^"^^^^^^ '^'^^ o,.r..teri.ea by almost 
perfect sterilt,. The tillable oases are found in Pish Lake, Deep Spring, Owen's Eiver at Ash 

Meadows in Amargosa Desert, Pah-rimp, Date Creek, Antelope, and Waln^lt Grove vll^s 

GRAZING LANDS. 

■unoi^nlf "^r"' '''r "^f "^^"'"^ ^=^"^«' ^'' ^-^ fro- ^«i"^ ""merous and extensive. A limited 

... onn of grass was found ,n the Eed Mountain. The White Mountains are said to possess a 

olerable range. Other grazing lands were found at Palmetto, Deep Springs, along O en P, 

t Ash Meadows, head of the Grand Wash, around Tin-na-kah, and Truxto Spring., ad on he 

mesa between the Aquarius and Juniper Mountains. 

Pleu;^^:!:^'"" ^'^^«"«^^^"^'*^-^ -« over 5,000 acres Of very good grazing lands, with 

The finest stock-range and grass-lands met with on my lines were those upon the high, rollino- 

rZ V Ir^ ' '^'''' '' '"' Apache-Mohaves, which embij thousand: of acr ^ 

^^ ith plentj of clear running water in the creeks that flow through the " box canons." 

MINING DISTRICTS. 

Twen ty-iour mining districts lay upon the lines traversed by the parties under my direction vi. ■ 
San Antonio, lontezuma. Palmetto, Alida, Gold Mountain, Green Mountain, Colifmbus 0"; ' 
Blind Spring Montgomery, Silver Peak, Red Mountain, Deep Spring Vallev, Fish Sprino-' Gran te' 
Mountain, Tigei, Pi.e Grove, Eradshaw, Turkey Creek, Weaver, Walnii Grove HaCir 
Martinez, and Santa Maria districts. For notices of these, your attention is respe tful y Hted 
to my report on "Mines and Mining Districts," appended and marked A, and to Dr W J H ff 
man's reports, marked, respectively, B, C, and D. , . . non- 



90 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. 

Ou the completion of the road over the White Mountains to Deep Spring Valley, a very fair 
wagon-road will exist from Belmont to Owen's River, California. From Gold Mountain, Fish Lake 
Valley is reached by a tolerable trail to Palmetto, and from there to Piper's ranch by wagon-road. 
A good road could be constructed the entire distance without great difliculty. 

Silver Peak is connected with Montezuma, San Antonio, and Fish Lake Valley by wagon- 
roads, and by the latter road, via Columbus, with Wadsworth, on the Central Pacific Railroad. 
From Columbus a road leads over the White Mountains to Owen's River; thence down that valley 
to Independence and Lone Pine. .A wagon-road can be constructed from Montezuma to Gold 
^Fountain, via Alida Valley. That a road can be constructed from Saint George, Utah, down 
through the Grand Wash and its tributaries, via Pah-Koon Springs, crossing the Colorado at or 
near the " old Ute crossing," and thence via Tin-nakah and Truxtou Springs to Camp Hualapal 
and Prescott, Arizona Territory, there can be no doubt; for a discussion of the practicability of 
the route, I would respectfully invite attention to Lieutenant Lockwood's report, 

REMARKS. 

This rei)ort is uecessai'ily chiefly narrative in its nature, and is, perhaps, not so- concise and 
positive as it might be, owing to the fact that a great many of the field-notes shipped have not 
arrived, being blockaded and delayed v,h\\e en route by the severe snow-storms on the Union Pacific 
Railroad. In it I have only presented information in regard to the area explored and surveyed 
entirely under my direction, leaving those portions upon which I only assisted to be treated of 
by yourself and Lieutenant Lockwood. 

Every eifort was made to make the collections in natural history, mineralogy, and geology 
as full and comprehensive as possible. 

The greatest care was taken to render the geographical and topographical notes lull, clear, and 
explicit, in order that the final map would i^resent all the essential details of the physical confor- 
uiation of the area explored. 

It was found that the general tiend of the mountain ranges encountered was northwest and 
southeast, separated by elongated valleys, which are often broken into two or more parts or lesser 
valleys, by lateral spurs diverging from the main ranges. These valleys are nearly all arid deserts, 
small interior basins with no surfixce outlet for their waters, resembling often the dry beds of lakes, 
and are component parts of the great interior basin. 

The water-sheds of these basins, the constitution of their soils, their geological and physical 
characteristics, the distribution of vegetation and water, together with their properties and amount, 
have been carefully noted, and will appear in a general report intended to embrace all the detailed 
information upon these various subjects. 

Too much praise and commendation cannot be bestowed upon the detachment of Troop I, 
Third United States Cavalry, who acted as escort to the expedition during the entire term of field 
operations. 

I would here thank all the members of the expedition under my charge, for the able and 

efficient manner in which they performed their various duties, and the earnest interest manifested 

by them in the success of the expedition. 

Respectfully submitted. 

D. A. LYLE, 

Second Lieutenant, Second United States Artillery. 

Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, 

United States Engineers, in charge of Explorations in Kevada and Arizona, Washington, 7). C. 



EXPLORATION IX XEVADA A^D ARIZONA. 



91 



APPENDIX C. 
REPORT OP ED^VAUD P. AUSTIN, ASTRONOMICAL ASSISTANT. 

Engineer Opfice, (Explorations in Nevada and Arizona,) 

Washington, I). C, March 2, 1872. 

Sir : I ba ve the honor to submit the following preliminary report upon the astronomical opera- 
tions or the .leter,nination of hxtitudes and lonoitudes, under my charge, during the season of 1S71 

The^ stations occupied .vere Carlin, Nevada, and Battle Mountain, Nevada, on the Central 
Pacific Railroad, Austin, Nevada, Camp Independence, California, and Salt Lake Utah 

The instruments employed were a sidereal chronometer by Negus, No. 1344; a mean solar 
chronometer by Hutton, No. 2SS ; and a portable transit of 26-inch focus, and If-inch aperture, by 
V. urdemann. No. 1«, which had been altered to convert it into a meridian instrument, similar to 
those introduced by the United States Coast Survey. 

CAELIN, NEVADA. 

Observations at Carlin consist in observations for time and exchanges of telegraphic signals 
for difference of longitude, with Washington, D. C, (United States Naval Observatorv, J R East- 
man, observer,) through Detroit, Michigan, (United States Lake Survey Observatory, O. B 
^\ heeler, observer,) on May 19, 2.3, and 24 ; and observations for latitude May 17, 25, 26, and 27. 

BATTLE MOUNTAIN, NEVADA. 

The observations at Battle Mountain include observations for time and exchanges of signals 
with Detroit, Michigan, June 1, 3, and 10; and observations for latitude, June 6, 7, S,and 9. 

AUSTIN, NEVADA. 

At Austin, observations for time and exchanges of signals were made with Detroit ami Wash- 
ington, June 16, and with Detroit June 26, and 29. 

Observations for latitude were made at this place June 15, 17, 21, and 23. 

CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA. 

At this place I was assisted by Mr. A. R. Marvine. The observations at this point consisted 
in observations for time, moon culminations for longitude, observations to determine the constants 
of the instrument, and observations for latitude. They lasted from July 21 to August 7. 

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 

I then repaired to Salt Lake City, Utah, to await the arrival of Mr. Marvine at Saint Georo^e 
Utah, when observations were made for time, an.l signals exchanged between Salt Lake and Sahit 
George, on September 13, 14, and 15. 

During the interval between my arrival at Salt Lake and Mr. Jlarvine's arrival at Saint George 
observations were made to determine the constants of the transit instrument. 

The instruments used at Salt Lake were a mean-time chronometer, by Barrand, No -2961 • 
and a portable transit of 31 inches focal length, 2^-inch aperture, by William Wiirdemann, No. 19^ 
winch was lirmly mounted on a sandstone pier, in the observatory erected in 1SC9 for the United 
States Coast Survey party; these instruments, and the observatory, being the property of Brigham 
young, president of the Mormon church. 



92 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

PROBABLE CHARACTER OF RESULTS. 

From the preliminary reductioiis, the probable error of a time iletermiuatiou with the iustrii- 
meut used at the stations from Carliu to Independence is from ± 0."02 to ± 0."04, and the iirobable 
error of a single pair observed for latitude is ± 1.".37, giving tlie probable error of a result depend- 
ing on thirty pairs ± 0."2.j ; on fifty pairs ± 0."20. These values will be considerably reduced by 
the final computations. 

The time determinations at Salt Lake, owing to the larger size and greater stability of the 
instrument, as well as the more favorable conditions for observing, give a probable error much 
less, being less than i 0."0]. 

Considering the character of the instruments, the means of recording, and the limited time 
allowed for the observations, the probabilities are that the results will prove highly satisfactory. 
Yery respectfully, yours, 

E. r. AUSTIN, 

.4 nironom ica 1 Observer. 
Lieutenant George M. Wheelee, 

United States Engineers, in clinrge of explorations. 



appendix d. 

report of g. k. gilbert, geological assistant. 

Engineer Office, (Explorations in Nevada and Arizona,) 

Washington, D. C, March 9, 1872. 
Dear Sir : In addition to the results of my own work, which was performed throughout the 
entire season of field duty, geological data were collected for limited periods V)y several gentlemen 
of the scientific corps. Mr. A. R. Marvine, serving in the double capacity of astronomer and 
geologist, was busied with geological examinations more especially during tbe latter half of the 
season, and will himself prepare the results of his labors for publication. Lieutenant D. A. Lyle, 
Dr. W. J. Hoffman, Mr.C.A. Ogdeu,and Mr.E. P. Austin have volunteered to contribute geological 
information in regard to some regions that I was unable to visit. Altogether the geological 
observations will be found to relate to about one-half of the lines of geographical exploi'ation and 
survey. Keeping pace in our movements with rapidly executed geographical work, the geologists 
were unable to command the time necessary to the complete description of even the immediate 
line of travel, and the most we can claim to have accomplished is a reconnaissance of our field. 
Of this character essentially have been the labors of geologists attached to other exploring parties, 
and, indeed, the achievement of more thorough work in connection with exploration is neither 
possible nor, in every sense, desirable. I would not, of course, be understood that it will be unprofit- 
able to make a careful and detailed survey of the geological structure and mineral resources of 
our whole territory, but that the first efficient step toward its accomplishment must be a cursory 
reconnaissance — a preliminary survey — with a view to obtain, at the earliest possible date, the 
broadest generalizations, the .simplest and most comprehensive ideas in regard to the sequence 
and distribution of the rocks, to serve as a frame-work in which every later study of a locality or 
district may find its appropriate place. More than this, these primary generalizations, crude 
though they are, and subject to indefinite future modification, answer in the best feasible manner 
the most pressing demands of a region that must depend for its development on the understanding 



EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND xVRIZONA. 93 

and appreciatiou of its mineral resources. The limits within which the discovery of the several 
precious and useful minerals may be anticipated, and beyond whicli they need not be sought, are 
indicated by the first and most comprehensive lines the geologist draws on bis map ; for they chiefly 
depend on broad distinctions that cannot fait to be made on the first examination. 

Our field of operations has afforded us a view within the space of a single season of an nnusnal 
variety of geological features distributed over an immense area. Our southward progress, amount- 
ing to uearly seven hundred miles in a right line, was accomplished by a zigzag course that showed 
us a belt of country averaging one hundred miles in width, and expanded in one part to two hun- 
dred and fifty miles. Of a great portion of this region no geological description whatever has been 
written, but at several points it has been intersected by the lines of earlier geological exploration, 
tlie majority of which have crossed the country in an east and west direction. It has been our 
province to establish the connection, and measurably to fill out the intervals between them. The 
relations which our investigations sustain to those of Dr. Newberry, Dr. Antisell, ]M. Marcoii and 
others, in Arizona ; of Professor Whitney, Professor Blake and others, in California, and of the geolo- 
gists of the Fortieth Parallel Survey, enable us to have a far better understanding of the phenom- 
ena presented by our field than would be possible if our work stood alone, and enhance in more 
than one way the value of the contribution we are able to make to the geological history of the 
continent. 

Our work was facilitated, in a measure that can hardly be appreciated by persons unfamiliar 
with deserts, by the absence of trees and absence of soil that characterize the greater part of Ne- 
vada and Arizona. Not merely were rock exposures everywhere provided without search, but the 
view was in all directions unimpeded, and we could frequently see the limits of the different rocks 
beautifully delineated on the slopes of the distant mountains, revealing at a glance relations that 
in a fertile country would appear only as the results of extended and laborious investigation. 
This advantage, which we shared with all our collaborators in the interior of the continent, enabled 
us to obtain from what was within our reach no inconsiderable knowledge of what was merely in 
sight, and thus expand into a belt what might otherwise be a mere line of observation. 

In the arrangement of the geological material for the final report, two needs are to be con- 
sidered. By the resident, and by the traveler or geologist who shall follow in our steps, local details 
and exact localities, will be demanded ; while the general reader, scientific or lay, will care only for 
the deductions that are of broadest application and such facts as are most importaut in their rela- 
tions to the study of the coutinent. For this reason the report will be divided into two princi- 
pal parts, of which the first (Chapters I-YIII) will record all observations of a local character in 
geographical, or rather itinerary order; and the second (Chapters IX-XVII) will contain a sys- 
tematic arrangement and discussion of the results of our work. 

The following schedule will serve to indicate the scope of the report : 

Chapter I. HaUeelc Station to Ophir Canon. — A portion of our travel iu this interval was upon 
the belt traversed bj- the Fortieth Parallel Survey, and the latter part lay along a portion of the 
Toyabe Eange, already described in the first published volume of the report of that corps. 

Chapter II. Ophir Canon to Pioche, and Silver Canon to Big Pine. — This route carried us east- 
ward over a succession of meridional ranges, nine or ten iu number, and then obliquely back to a 
point oue hundred and fifty miles farther south. With (apparently) two exceptions, these ranges 
consist of highly-inclined, stratified rocks, more or less metamorphosed, associated with granite, 
and flanked — in places even covered — by volcanic materials. 

Chapter III. Big Pine, in Owew.'i Valley, to Camp Moliave. — Owen's Lake is surrounded by a 
series of deserted beaches, marking epochs iu the gradual desiccation of the Great Basin. On 



94 EXPLORATION m NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

the uppermost are lacustrine shells {Anodonta) iu abundance showing tliat the lake when 50 feet 
deeper was of fresh water. 1 found them on none of the lower beaches, and the alkaline water of 
the present lake appears to support insect life only. Concordantly it appears that the lake had 
then an outlet, discharging its surplus water southward, over what is still the lowest point of the 
rim. We followed the bed of this ancient river for thirty -five miles, and passed in sight of the 
broad depression east of Walker's Pass, in which it terminated, aud where it formed, doubtless, a 
lake as briny and desolate as the one that now accumulates the saline constituents of Owen's 
Jxiver. From Owen's Valley we once more crossed obliquely the system of mountain ranges- 

Chapteu IV. Canq) Mohave, via the Colorado River, to the mouth of Diamond Creel:. — The 
canons of Colorado, cutting down almost to the ocean level, give natnral cross-sections of several 
ranges, and afford an opportunity to study on a grand scale the dislocations that accompany the 
upheaval of mountains. The geological section of the river bank exhibits at the east the undis- 
turbed strata of the Colorado plateau with a thickness of one mile; toward the west, the dislo- 
cated masses of the same strata, forming a series of ridges with their upturned edges; and still 
farther, the granite nuclei and flanking schists aud lavas of Virgin and Black Ranges. 

Chapter V. Diamond Creel; to the Triplets, in San Carlos Valley — Oar course lay along the 
southern margin of the Colorado plateau, and in our repeated ascents and descents of its escarp- 
ment a number of sections were obtained, establishing the identity of the principal beds for a 
distance of three hundred miles. 

Chapter VI. Triplets to Tucson. 

Chapter VII. This and the following chapter will comprise the report of Jlr. A. R. Marvine, 
who furnishes the following resume : 

" Chapter VII will contain some scattering observations between Independence, California, 
and Saint George, Utah, with a more continuous set of observations between the latter place and 
Camp Verde, Arizona Territory. From Saint George the course was south, the ' Grand Wash,' 
lying between the eastern, ])recipitous face of the Colorado plateau aud the Virgin Mountains, 
being followed, and the Colorado River crossed. Here we ascended from the granite to the lower 
bench of the plateau, and, traveling south and east near the edge, descended again to the granite 
near Trnxton Springs. Granite, with some metamorphic rocks, predominates from here to Verde, 
forming, near the latter, the Black Hills, and being covered in some localities by lava fields and 
one or two isolated remnants of the plateau. The 'mineral' veins of this region occur in the 
granite and metamorphic formation. 

"Chapter VIII. From Camp Verde to Tucson.— The valley of the Verde River, at the camp, 
indicates the line of demarkation between the granite of the Black Hills and the horizontal 
sedimentary strata of the Colorado plateau, which is here called the Black Mesa. AVe at once 
a.scended and proceeded eastward to the Little Colorado, crossing the large basaltic mass which 
occupies the central area, rests upon the sedimentary rocks, and seems to have been contiiuied 
somewhat farther north, in the vicinity of San Francisco :\Ionntain. At the Little Colorado wo 
turned south and east, crossed the Mogollon Mountaius,and descended through the upper strata of 
the mesa to Camp Apache. The Mogollon, and probably the White Mountains farther east, are 
extended basaltic masses, resting on the mesa top in the same manner as San Francisco Mountain 
and adjacent lava mas.ses. From Apache to Florence the course was southeast, passing through 
the lower sedimentary rocks of the mesa into the mountainous and diversified granitic region of 
Eastern Arizona, and out upon the deserts of the Gila River. Turning southeast, we remained on 
these to Tucson.'' 

Chapter IX. On the structure and atje of the monntidns of the Great Basin. 



EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 95 

Chapter X. On the rnllei/s of the Great Banin ; their character dependent on origin, amount of 
filling, and 2)resent conditions. — The great majority are troughs betweeu uphea\ed meridioual ranges, 
partly filleil by detritus (of subaqueous aud subaerial deposition) from the adjacent mountains, and 
modified by floods of lava, that in uumerous instances have connected parallel ridges aud thus di- 
vided, more or less perfectly, the intervening valleys. In some of the lower areas, to which, ia 
the gradual emergence of the continent, the sea had longest access, the valleys have been so com- 
pletely filled as to connect with each other aud constitute plains, through which the peaks (or the 
remnants) of the intervening ranges jut as "lost mountains." 

Chapter XI. On Erosion. — Besides the general discussion of the phenomena, so profusely 
displayed along the entire route, this chapter will contain \iotes on the potholes of the Colorado, 
and ou the curious rock-sculpture esecut<?d by particles of sand driven by wind and by water. 
Here, too, will find place an account of some supposed drift-gravels, resting ou the margin of the 
Colorado plateau near the Tonto Basin, in latitude 35° uorth. 

Chapter XII. On the Water Supply.— Tventiug of the relations of springs to geological fea- 
tures, aud of the considerations which should govern search for water by boring. 

Chapter XIII. On the distribution and age of the Sedimentary Rods. — The fossiliferous beds, 
of which the age was determined by the expeditioii, range from the Primordial to the Upper 
Carboniferous, and rest uneonformably on a series of highly crystalline schists, with associated 
granites. Fossils were obtained from about thirty-five localities, two thirds of which gave con- 
clusive evidence of their geological horizon. 

Chapter XIV. On the geology of the Colorado Flateau. 

Chapter XV. On Volcanic Rods and Mountains. — The entire field of our exploration has 
been the scene of prolonged, or recurrent, volcanic activity, reaching down to so recent a period 
that it would be rash to assert that it has even now finally ceased. There is no extended mountain 
range from the sides of which lavas have not flowed, and some are for long distauces buried 
under the material that has found vent along their lines of fracture. From the Timpahute Eange 
westward to the Amargosa, the eastern boundary of Death Valley, a distance of seventy-five miles 
in a direct line, we traveled entirely on volcanic material, and there is reason to believe that the 
field stretches northward an equal distance. In this and some other areas north of the Colorado, 
rhyolitic and trachytic lavas predominate, and volcanic sands aud tufas are conspicuous elements 
of the mass. Farther south, in the viciuity of the Colorado plateau, the latter are rarely seen, and 
basaltic lavas assume great prominence. The collection of volcanic products is large, and cannot 
fail, with study, to add something to the rapidly increasing store of facts in regard to the ordinal 
sequence of lavas. 

Chapter XVI. Economic Geology.— To the ditficult and inii)ortaut subject of the geological 
distributiou of auriferous and argentiferous veins, and their relation to the mountain system 
and to the intruded rocks, we hope to contribute some facts of value. 

Our report will record the occurrence and position of coal, salt, gypsum, aud other economic 
minerals. The former has been discovered near Camp Apache in beds of Carboniferous age, and 
probably referable to the Coal Measures. The seam is of tolerable thickness, but has not been 
sufliciently developed to test its quality. It will probably prove to be of non-coking, bituminous 
coal. 

Chapter XVII. Paleontology.— n\Q fossils of the expedition will be placed, I am happy to 
state, in the skillful and experienced bauds of Mr. F. B. Meek, who will study and report upon 
them. 



96 EXPLOEATIOIN^ IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 

Ill the geological collections, limited iu extent by tlie circumstances of transi^ortatiou, &c., 
great care was taken to represent tlie characteristic lithological features of the several geological 
provinces, tlie prevalent varieties of rock being stutlionslj' preferred to the locally exceptional. 
I remain, sir, very truly yours, 

G. K. GILBEET. 

Lieutenant George M. AVheelee, 

United States Engineers. 



